Why is fan not coming on when (bike) turned off?

The KTM sx is a full race bike - the radiators do not have fans to keep the bike cool when not moving - the bike must be moving to keep the air passing through the radiators to keep the engine cool - if you have the bike standing still there is no air moving through the radiator - hence why it over heats - tip start the bike after you are fully kitted up for your ride - let it warm up for around a min tops then ride - if you have to stop for a period of time when riding turn the bike off - I have the same issues of over heating if not moving on my VOR 530 - I do as described above and have no issues at all with over heating when riding. good luck

Could be your fuel pump or your fan is still running.

If it's the fuel pump. You should hear the same sound when you turn the contact on in the morning.
If you can only hear it when the bike is warm and you shut the engine down, it's likely it's the fan spinning. Some Kawa's do it, some don't. My old GPX600R did it. Sometimes it ran (after I shut the bike down) for upto 15 minutes (in hot weather),but my ZZR1400 doesn't do it at all.
My old GPX used to buzz/whistle form the gas cap too, but that shouldn't have anything to do with turning the power on/off.

The Virago uses 20W-50 oil in warm weather. If you ask any bike shop they will recommend moving to a 10W-40 in cold weather down to about 30ish F, and if you plan on riding down to extreme temps of about 20F and below, then a 5W-30 or 5W-40 is recommended. For the 5-7C temps you list, you could really just use the same oil you use for summer. Just take a little extra time in letting the bike warm up and don't ride it hard the first couple of miles to let the oil come up to full temp. If you prefer to err on the side of caution, then use the 10W-40 oil. I had a Yamaha 650 Classic and I used 20W-50 year round and never had issues as long as I made sure to warm it up properly first.

The way I start any of my bikes in cold weather is turn on the choke and once its turned on and run for 1 minute or so turn it off and warm your bike up. For the first few mins of riding don't go too extreme, since the cold air can cool your bike down quickly.

You may have one conventional belt-driven fan with a thermal clutch and the other electric or, both could be electric on your car.
The cooling fan that operates during non-AC operation (just a running engine) if electric, will be controlled by a thermal switch in the lower radiator tank and may not turn on at all unless the engine is warmed up. The belt-driven fan should be turning at some speed all the time if the engine is running and at much higher speed with a hot engine.
The fan that cools mostly when the AC is operating won't run under normal operation but may turn on in hot weather (or when the engine is under heavier loads) even without the AC operating.
Checking them would require having a warmed-up engine and the AC turned on. Both fans regardless of type should be turning then.

could be several things
1-- coolant radiator is partially blocked or the thermostat is not fully opening reducing the flow of coolant through the radiator
2--- tuning is too lean at full load which causes overheat conditions for the engine
3--- timing a bit retarded for the rpms
i t is all connected to the extra load from the head winds requiring extra throttle that you would not normally use in normal conditions
another place to check is the fairing in use as the extra wind speed from the bike and the head wind may be causing a turbulence around the radiator and so preventing full air flow to the radiator

You can test the fan by simply unplugging the single wire that attaches to the fan thermal switch and touching it to ground. With the ignition switch on, the fan should spin when you do this. If it does spin, then you've most likely got a bad thermal switch.

Your bike has two thermally activated switches: one for the temp gauge - and one to operate the fan. The temp gauge switch has two wires going to it, while the fan switch just ahs one wire.

Also, check that the coolant temp light bulb is not burnt out. FYI: Feeling what seems to be a great amount of heat coming off your bike's liquid cooled engine is normal, especially on warm days. If the cooling system has the proper amount of coolant in it - and is not boiling over, then the engine is probably not overheating.

Disregard the gauge they can be inaccurate. Honda's can run hot depending on outside temperature,weather, traffic, etc. At freeway speeds you will find the standard needle position for driving. If the needle hits the red mark does the fan turn on ? This is a sign you are hot but OK. Are you boiling over? This means you have a problem with the fan, fan switch,thermostat, coolant level, or water pump. Every bike runs a little different you will have to determine what is normal (for your gauge) and work from there. If you are not boiling over and your fan works you may just have a high reading gauge or temp sender.

If you bike is equipped with a carburetor, the idle stop screw is located at the top of the carb on the right side. Counterclockwise turn slows the idle speed.

If you bike is fuel injected, a dealer or shop will have to set the idle speed electronically.

Good Luck
Steve

This is especially noticable if the bike has been sitting a while and if the weather's cool. It is water vapor condensation and it is perfectly normal. If you take the bike for a long ride and get it warm the milkiness will go away. Some people install shutoff valves to their oil coolers so the bike gets hotter in cool weather, or fashion oil covers to reduce airflow, but most people just go for a long ride instead.