No power to the ignition

Check your main or maxi fuses. If an older car, there may be fusible links between the battery and the power distribution. There should be ignition fuses that supply power to the ignition switch. These fuses would be hot at all times, so take a test light, ground it to battery negative, and check if the fuses have power to them. Pull one fuse out, touch the tester probe into both terminals the fuse plugs into. If one terminal lights up the test light, then that fuse is getting power. If the fuse is good, power will pass on to whatever is on that circuit. If it's an ignition fuse, the ignition switch should have power to it (if the wiring is good), and turning the key to on, should send power out to the dash and to the engine.

Be systematic-follow the power from the battery to the fuse/relay box to the ignition switch. Don't forget the importance of ground in any circuit: if a circuit doesn't work, check power and ground. Check your battery ground for a clean, tight connection, from battery negative post to frame ground.

Bad DOG! Break out the checkbook, you may have blown the computer. Need to start there. Not sure if there is reverse polarity diode protection or not. Have it checked. Even at a scrap yard they won't be cheap.

Do you have headlights with the headlight switch on? That would eliminate a battery connection problem. If things like headlights and brake lights work, one should next check that power is getting to the ignition switch. If you pull the connector under the dash off for the ignition switch, there should be a hot-at-all-times wire going to the ignition switch. Check with a test light or voltmeter. If no power to the switch, back to the fuse box by the battery-an ignition fuse may have blown. If power is available to the switch, suspect a bad ignition switch.

There is a fuse for the warning lights and gauges. Yes, you checked the fuses and relays, but you need to check if power is there at the fuse, with the key in the on position.

Here's how turning the key to on causes the warning lights and gauges to turn on: From your ignition switch the on or run wire out of it will have power with key on. The run wire will also send power to the part of the fuse panel that is of the category "hot in run or on", where your fuse for the dash warn. lts. & gauges is- it may be labeled "meter" or "gauges" or like that. From the fuse, a hot wire goes into the harness for the instrument cluster-for the warning lights and gauges. The wire, like the fuse, is only hot in on or run.

The ignition's run wire may splice with a direct connection to some fuses, or more likely there may be an "ignition relay" that powers the "hot in run or on" fuses, and the run wire is used to turn the relay on. You could look for this relay just above or around the fuse panel under the dash. But the easiest place to start is to see if the fuse for the gauges has power to it with the key in on. If it does, the problem is up further on at the cluster connection or a ground for the gauges and cluster. If the fuse has no power available, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. That could be a faulty ignition relay.

Nothing works? How about the headlights, do they work? If yes, then start checking all fuses in the Power Distribution Center or Box under the hood. If no, then look for a bad maxi-fuse in the PDC, and check for a bad fusible link between the battery and the PDC. The battery positive cable goes to the starter, but a pigtail lead off the positive would go to the PDC, to distribute power to all the various circuits on the car.
When you turn the key to on, does the dash light up? If yes, at least power is getting to, and going through the ignition switch. One could then check for power on the starter solenoid wire when key was held in crank or start position.
If nothing when turning key to on-no dash lights, nothing-then check for an ignition fuse in the PDC. If fuse is good check for power being available at the ignition switch connector. If no power there, check wiring between PDC and the ignition switch-if power is up to the switch, but nothing happens with key on, no dash or warning lights, then could have a bad ignition switch.
It just sounds like a maxi-fuse has blown, or a bad fusible link. Good luck.

Have you tried charging the battery? Getting it jump started? It may be a weak battery, bad solenoid, or bad ignition switch.

Hi ,
Check all connection , fuses .
You may found that while riding a connection got loose and therefore lost the contact and power to the entire bike .
try to source from the battery and make your way to your ignition .

low battery or bad starter. charge the battery all the way.if it starts good if not check to see if the starter getting juice if it is bad starter get a new one if the starter is not getting juice check your connections on starter and your starter fuse.i recommend you check your fuses first be 4 you do anything

The problem is probably a bulb. When the filament blew out it crossed over to the other side of the bulb creating a back feed. Change the bulbs out one at a time and Im sure you'll find the bad one.
If that doesn't work check the grounds on the radiator support.

have you checked to see if the alternator is working? If it isn't the battery is being drained. You may have lights and all but the cranking power is drained therefore you don't have enough juice to start it. So check the alternator and if possible do an obd 2 scan at autozone or advance auto