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2005 Harley Davidson road glide When I throttle

2005 Harley Davidson road glide When I throttle up the check engine light comes on When I hold a steady throttle the check engine light goes off I have replaced the fuel filter fuel hoses with factory clamps I have no fuel leaks What is the problem

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  • Motorcycles Master
  • 1,554 Answers

Pull any error codes.

How?

1 - Turn the ignition switch to off & run/stop switch is to run .
2 - Push odometer reset button in & HOLD .
3 - Turn the ignition switch on and then release odometer reset button. The background lighting should illuminate & the speedometer needle should sweep it's full range & indicator lamps ( battery , security , low fuel , check engine and cruise ) should illuminate . The word "DIAG" should then appear .
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPtb" with the first P flashing .
5 - Each letter represents a area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check . To move from one letter to the next you must push the odometer reset button one time . ( from P to S to SP to t to b and back to P , ect ect )
P = ECM
S = TSM/TSSM/HFSM
SP = speedometer
t = tachometer
b = ABS codes
6 - To get the DTC code in a area of diagnostics you should PUSH & HOLD the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and the release . If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word " none " will appear if there are no DTC's . Push the odometer reset button again to view any additional codes if they exist .
7 - Record the codes .
8 - If DTC's are NOT to be cleared , press and release the odometer reset button . Part #of module will be displayed .
9 - If DTC's are to be cleared for that module , PRESS & HOLD the odometer reset button until " clear " is displayed .
10 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module .
11 - Turn the ignition switch off to exit the diagnostic mode.

Once you have any codes, look them up, or post here (I have a manual that translates the codes), to find out what they mean.

Posted on Jan 01, 2014

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SOURCE: replace rear brake pads

Remove right saddlebag, pull the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Do not open bleeder or disconnect line. You will need to push a large screwdriver between the old pads before removing them in order to push the pucks back into the caliper or the new pads will not spread enough to reinstall. Then pull the two smaller bolts from the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different for inside and outside, so pay attention, and remember, after reinstalling, before riding, be sure to pump brake pedal, and it may take a few stops before brakes stop as effectively as before.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: oil plug

on the bottom of the oil pan

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: replace handle bars

Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: replace handle bars

Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

DJ_MAX1369
  • 119 Answers

SOURCE: fuel pump?

the fuel pump for your 2000 fuel injected road king is located in the fuel tank. you will have to remove the speedometer housing, by first removing the seat, then remove the one small screw near the seat that holds the speedometer housing in place, also remove the small screw at the front of the speedometer housing and lift the housing off the tank and disconnect the wiring that goes to the back of the speedometer. there is a large oval shaped gold in appearance plate on top of the fuel tank. this plate is what the fuel pump is mounted to.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

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