Question about 2002 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide
First thing, is the bleeder valve on the caliper at the wheel in the high position?
If it's on the lower part of the caliper, air will be trapped above it.
Sometimes, a brake vacuum bleeder works better than the traditional way:
After bleeding all the air you can, leave it overnight with the pedal/lever (you didn't state if the front or rear brake) tywrapped in the ON position overnight.
IF it's the rear brake, make sure there's a slight amount of play before the rod to the pedal engages the master cylinder piston (if not, it won't allow the piston to fully return).
Posted on Jan 01, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
By "locked up", I'm assuming that once you release the front brake lever, the bike will not roll. As with all disc brakes, the brake pads do not withdraw away from the disc. They maintain light pressure on the disc to keep it clean and dry. When you pull the lever, they apply stopping force. When you relaese the lever the force is releaved but the pads still stay in contact with disc lightly and the wheel will turn.
If you've tired another master cylinder and the brakes are still locking up, there is something wrong with either the hose or the caliper itself. Usually, it's the caliper. You must take the caliper off and use compressed air to get the piston out. You must be very careful while doing this. If you must use high air pressure, the piston will come out of the caliper with extreme force. I use a small air pressure regulator to slowly increase the pressure starting at about five psi.
If you get to 25 psi or better, things can get dangerous. At this point, I quit using air pressure and go to a grease gun. By taking the end off the end of the hose on the grease gun, it will screw right into the place where the brake line goes most of the time. Now pump the grease in until the piston pops out. It's a nasty job but a lot safer than the air pressure method. Clean the caliper up completely free of grease. Use a wheel cylinder hone to hone the inside of the caliper's piston bore. Pay particular attention to the groove where the caliper top seal goes in. Lubritcate the piston and the inside of the piston bore of the caliper with the proper type of clean brake fluid and press the piston into the bore. The caliper is now ready to reinstall. Make sure you are using the proper type of brake fluid. Harley changed back to DOT 4 brake fluid but I can't remember what year. It should be on the top of the master cylinder cover. Do not mix DOT4 and DOT 5.
I have on a few occasions seen a rubber brake hose that would not allow the brekes to release. They get damaged on the inside. The very high pressure present when you apply the brakes can get past an obstrucion on the inside of the hose. But, once you release the pressure, as the pressure lowers, it gets to a point where it cannot get past the obstruction and thus holds this amount of pressure on the caliper. Replace the brake hose.
Make sure you bleed all the air out of the system. If you leave any in there, as the air heats up, it expands and applies pressure to the brakes and makes them drag. Alweys test the brakes before riidng the bike. Improperly serviced brakes can cause serious injury or death. Good Luck, Steve
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 2002 dyna
It's probably the front brake light switch is broken causing this. The brake light switch is operated by a tab on the backside of the front brake lever. To get to the switch, you must disassemble the right handlebar switch housing. Remove the two bolts that hold the housing halves together. Loosen the throttle and idle cable adjustments and remove the throttle sleeve. Lower the bottom half and you'll see the switch in the front of the housing. You'll have to unsolder the wires from the old switch and resolder them to the new switch. I don't think Harley has changed them to plug on type wire connectors. This would be my best guess.
Posted on May 30, 2011
SOURCE: HARLEY- 02 DYNA WIDE GLIDE
WD4ITY has no clue what he in talkjing about in regards to starting the bike or moving it has no effect on brakes loosing pressure. I for one have this EXACT same issue. I can bleed the brakes to where they are rock solid, and while sitting still the brakes are rock hard. The moment I move the back backwards or forwards even the slightest bit, the brakes loose all pressure and the handle moves to the grip. It's due to the front rotor being out of alignment or at an angle in comparison to the brake caliper. When you move the bike forward or reverse the rotor is pushing the pads apart causing your handle to have a no pressure effect since you must now squeeze it a few times to regain pressure. On my FXD this was caused by the front wheel not being spaced properly causing the forks to come in at the bottom causing a slight rotors out of angle effect. I did notice a starting effect where I would loose some pressure, but I accounted this to me sitting on bike, lifting it up straight which caused the rotor to push on pads which in turn made me thing starting caused the loose of pressure. Don't always believe what people type on the internew telling you that moving a bike has no effect when it in fact does and any Harley tech or sport bike tech for that matter, worth their salt should tell you this same thing.
Posted on Jul 31, 2013
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