Question about 2002 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

New master cylinder and brake line on 2002 wide glide no brake preasure wheel turnes no brake preasure what next

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 1,554 Answers

First thing, is the bleeder valve on the caliper at the wheel in the high position?
If it's on the lower part of the caliper, air will be trapped above it.
Sometimes, a brake vacuum bleeder works better than the traditional way:

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html

After bleeding all the air you can, leave it overnight with the pedal/lever (you didn't state if the front or rear brake) tywrapped in the ON position overnight.

IF it's the rear brake, make sure there's a slight amount of play before the rod to the pedal engages the master cylinder piston (if not, it won't allow the piston to fully return).

Posted on Jan 01, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 electra glide classic front brakes locking

By "locked up", I'm assuming that once you release the front brake lever, the bike will not roll. As with all disc brakes, the brake pads do not withdraw away from the disc. They maintain light pressure on the disc to keep it clean and dry. When you pull the lever, they apply stopping force. When you relaese the lever the force is releaved but the pads still stay in contact with disc lightly and the wheel will turn.

If you've tired another master cylinder and the brakes are still locking up, there is something wrong with either the hose or the caliper itself. Usually, it's the caliper. You must take the caliper off and use compressed air to get the piston out. You must be very careful while doing this. If you must use high air pressure, the piston will come out of the caliper with extreme force. I use a small air pressure regulator to slowly increase the pressure starting at about five psi.

If you get to 25 psi or better, things can get dangerous. At this point, I quit using air pressure and go to a grease gun. By taking the end off the end of the hose on the grease gun, it will screw right into the place where the brake line goes most of the time. Now pump the grease in until the piston pops out. It's a nasty job but a lot safer than the air pressure method. Clean the caliper up completely free of grease. Use a wheel cylinder hone to hone the inside of the caliper's piston bore. Pay particular attention to the groove where the caliper top seal goes in. Lubritcate the piston and the inside of the piston bore of the caliper with the proper type of clean brake fluid and press the piston into the bore. The caliper is now ready to reinstall. Make sure you are using the proper type of brake fluid. Harley changed back to DOT 4 brake fluid but I can't remember what year. It should be on the top of the master cylinder cover. Do not mix DOT4 and DOT 5.

I have on a few occasions seen a rubber brake hose that would not allow the brekes to release. They get damaged on the inside. The very high pressure present when you apply the brakes can get past an obstrucion on the inside of the hose. But, once you release the pressure, as the pressure lowers, it gets to a point where it cannot get past the obstruction and thus holds this amount of pressure on the caliper. Replace the brake hose.

Make sure you bleed all the air out of the system. If you leave any in there, as the air heats up, it expands and applies pressure to the brakes and makes them drag. Alweys test the brakes before riidng the bike. Improperly serviced brakes can cause serious injury or death. Good Luck, Steve

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2002 dyna

It's probably the front brake light switch is broken causing this. The brake light switch is operated by a tab on the backside of the front brake lever. To get to the switch, you must disassemble the right handlebar switch housing. Remove the two bolts that hold the housing halves together. Loosen the throttle and idle cable adjustments and remove the throttle sleeve. Lower the bottom half and you'll see the switch in the front of the housing. You'll have to unsolder the wires from the old switch and resolder them to the new switch. I don't think Harley has changed them to plug on type wire connectors. This would be my best guess.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on May 30, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: HARLEY- 02 DYNA WIDE GLIDE

WD4ITY has no clue what he in talkjing about in regards to starting the bike or moving it has no effect on brakes loosing pressure. I for one have this EXACT same issue. I can bleed the brakes to where they are rock solid, and while sitting still the brakes are rock hard. The moment I move the back backwards or forwards even the slightest bit, the brakes loose all pressure and the handle moves to the grip. It's due to the front rotor being out of alignment or at an angle in comparison to the brake caliper. When you move the bike forward or reverse the rotor is pushing the pads apart causing your handle to have a no pressure effect since you must now squeeze it a few times to regain pressure. On my FXD this was caused by the front wheel not being spaced properly causing the forks to come in at the bottom causing a slight rotors out of angle effect. I did notice a starting effect where I would loose some pressure, but I accounted this to me sitting on bike, lifting it up straight which caused the rotor to push on pads which in turn made me thing starting caused the loose of pressure. Don't always believe what people type on the internew telling you that moving a bike has no effect when it in fact does and any Harley tech or sport bike tech for that matter, worth their salt should tell you this same thing.

Posted on Jul 31, 2013

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1 Answer

Why even with new brake parts in the front and rear on my 2995 Ford f150 2wd truck would front brakes work but not back ? I even put truck on bay lift and hit the brakes and rear just kept spinning.


Bill:

Check your master cylinder. It could be a piece of junk lodged in the fluid port for the rear brake lines, or in the brake line its self. The fact that both rear wheels spin tells me that if it is a clogged line, it is between the two manifolds, (one next to the master cylinder, and the other where the rear brake line splits into two... one for each rear hub. Or it could be that the piston in the master cylinder needs to be replaced. I would disconnect one brake line at one rear wheel and disconnect the rear brake line at the manifold (near the master cylinder)and blow that line out with air pressure. . do not leave the rear brake line connected to the master cylinder as you blow air through the lines as you may damage the master cylinder piston packings. You'll have to bleed the brakes when you are done.

Jan 24, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Un even braking


Warped rotors are usually the problem, but you cannot see? They can be measured for trueness...however with the pulling in different directions, I think your next fix would be to bleed all 4 brake lines...starting at rear farthest from the master cylinder, then other rear, then front farthest from master cylinder...lastly the front closet to the master cylinder...Pressure can feel constant, but pulling is usually caused by air in the lines...this can get worse...may not be an expensive repair if you can bleed the lines with a friend or pedal pusher system...Also check brake fluid level...was it extremely low, and you recently added some?

Oct 08, 2015 | 2002 Volvo S80

1 Answer

How do you replace rear pads 2005 dyna glide


Hi Anonymous, it can be done with out removing the rear wheel or any brake lines, or any bleeding of brakes, all you need is a c-clamp and regular hand tools. First place a drain pan underneath the rear master cylinder, it's likely to overflow during the piston push back procedure, and remove the top and accordion rubber gasket and compress gasket back to it's flatest position then put it back on top of the master cylinder leaving the metal cover off. Next split the caliper halves by removing the 3 bolts and pay close attention to small o-ring so it doesn't get lost and location and orientation of the anti rattle clips. Leave the old brake pads in.Take your c-clamp and position it so that the screw part is dead center of the old pad and slowly tighten the clamp until the old pads have pushed the pistons back into the caliper half and the pad bottoms out. Repeat the process with the other caliper half. Install the new brake pads, replace o-ring and anti rattle clips and bolt the halves back toghther, torque bolts to 20 ft lbs. Check fluid level and replace top cover on master cylinder. Pump the brake by hand until you get a nice strong pedal and your good to go. Good luck

Apr 22, 2014 | 2005 Harley Davidson FXDWG - FXDWGI Dyna...

1 Answer

No front brake preasure 2002 wide glide


Sounds like you need to bleed the brake system.

Jan 01, 2014 | 2002 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

No front brake preasure on 2002 wide glide


Sounds like the master cylinder is defective or you need to bleed the system. Did you possibly add in the wrong type of brake fluid and destroy all rubber components in the sytem???

Jan 01, 2014 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

1 Answer

NO BRAKES WHEN ENGINE IS RUNNING


Brakes and engine are totaly diferent systems. Do you have brakes when engine is off? If so the only conection between engine and brakes could be vacume which is created by the engine stored in the chamber at the master cylinder to assist with brakes but does not overide personal brake presure only help increase braking. If trully you have less breaking preasure with the engine running then check the vacume line at the master cylinder to see if there is a vacume or maybe preasure?

Sep 18, 2012 | 1993 Plymouth Acclaim

1 Answer

Rear wheel cylinder went out replaced that on both wheels an brake lines.then replaced master cylinder.Bleed the brakes but got no preasure at the pedal.Cant find any leaks .


you have air in the lines or a leak somewhere. tighten all your fittings and start at the pass side rear wheel. get a piece of vacuum hose that will fit on the bleeder and put one end on the bleeder and one end in a cup half full of brake fluid. have someone start the truck and pump the brakes slowly and watch the cup for bubbles. when the bubbles stop go to the next wheel if they dont stop after five minits of pumping you have a leak. i worked for hours on a truck finally finding a very small leak in the hose that goes from the rearend to the line down the frame. some part stores rent or loan vacuum pumps for doing brakes that work great just hook up to the bleeder and turn it on making sure that the master cylinder stays full and it pulls the fluid thru removing all the air.

Dec 18, 2010 | 1991 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Rear brake stops working when riding.


You still have to have some air in the line's some where.

Oct 02, 2009 | 2002 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

3 Answers

I have a slow brake fluid loss. I think it may from the master cylinder. Are there any seals in the lines that go into the master cylinder unit.


no they are inverted flare fittings no seals check all lines and calipers/wheel cylinders if all are dry remove the vacuum hose from the booster if there is brake fluid in the hose the master cylinder is bad

Sep 24, 2009 | 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

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