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Using a liquid dish soap diluted with water put in a spray bottle, like a glass cleaner bottle,use a 3:1 ratio of water to soap. Have good lighting and spray all lines and special attention to all connections. pay close attention to any bubbling. If any bubbles form, turn off gas, unscrew pipes at fittings and using a pipe thread sealer "pipe dope" coat threads liberally and reconnect fittings tightly. Retest after opening the gas valve. Gas lines use a globe valve which are open when the slotted knob is parallel to the length of the line. Be very careful not to allow any open flames until it is certain that all leaks are repaired. Warning never attempt to connect gas pipes or fittings without Pipe thread sealer or Teflon tape ; if it doesn't leak immediately it is certian to do so! Use good judgement or pay a proffessional with liability insurance.
Lots of black smoke in the back i had a few problem like that it was the spider in the intake there a central injection system in it its 6 plastic pipe that goes to the cylinder 1 per cylinder 1 or 2 pipe crack and spray gas in the intake your oil must smeel like gas even if its not old let me no after that your car gonna run like new its not a cheap part but you got no choise thats for the question james
you could have the start of an leaking manifold to find out if this is starting to happen spray some carb cleaner over the inlet manifold while engine is a temp if any changes happen when you spray an area i.e engine idles faster or cuts out then this is were you problem is going to start from. also check the air line with the cleaner. if every thing is fine then its just an intake clean is needed take the top off the inlet spray the carb cleaner in there let it sock for awhile and wipe out ht muck etc. don't do it with the engine running. after a good clean change the air filter. also on some models there is a secondary air intake vale check this as the vale can fail. when the engine valve fails can sound like the engine is high performance but with out the power. usually sits next to the exhaust manifold has 2 pipes coming out of the exhaust manifold to a pipe with a vale on it then a rubber pipe out to the front of the engine bay. some have fans fitted and some don't depends on engine number fitted. will have a filter at the end.
Find the cold water supply pipe to the tank. Most are labeled, but if unsure - turn on the closest hot water faucet and feel the temperature of the pipes connected to the water tank. Follow the coldest pipe back (moving away from the tank) until you reach the first shut off valve on that pipe and shut it off completely. No more cold water will fill the tank and cause water to spray / leak from the pipe. There is no need to shut off the gas really, as it is controlled by the temperature sensor on the tank - but if you insist, you should find either a flexible pipe - or a black iron pipe that enters a controller. Most have a dial marked "OFF" "ON" & "PILOT". Simply twist the dial from ON to OFF and the gas will be shut off. Good luck!
I suspect, the piping that was used originally used for the incoming has line was not Black Iron Pipe as required. It was probably galvanized pipe instead. Which, has never, ever been approved for gas delivery piping. Even under the worse conditions, unpainted Black Iron Pipe would not have rusted thru in just 3 years.
Solution: Replace all of the existing gas piping with either Black Iron Pipe (paint it after installation), Flexible Copper Tubing (requires no paint) or Flexible, Stainless Steel, Vinyl Coated Pipe. The piping diameter should be a minimum of 1/2" OD.
If this is not a built-in grill (i.e. Outdoor Kitchen) and is still a cart grill. Code requires that there not only be an accessible gas line shut off valve within 3' feet of the grill. But, from that point on to the grill, it must have a 12' long rubber, quick disconnect, gas hose.
What you are doing is very hard to do without adding a union to the piping. There really isn't anything more you can do than what you already are doing. But if you have bubbled each joint and can't find anymore leaks then move to your valves. Also, flex lines have a tendency to leak as well. Like the ones that go to your water heater, stove/oven, furnace and small gas appliances. Check for the old style valves that don't meet code anymore like the valves with a bolt all the way through the valve. You will want to change them out to a ball valve. I hope this answers your question.
I believe that you have throttle body injection (TBI) Take off the air cleaner and have someone crank the engine look at the injectors and see if fuel is seen..Do you or have you smelled fuel when you were recently attempting to start truck???? if so this sounds like you are not getting spark....if you havent smelled fuel try priming TBI with gas and see if the truck fires...If so you know that problem lies in fuel delivery... On TBI systems it is very important that a conicle spray pattern is delivered by injectors for proper ignition if injector drips fuel into TBI this could cause a no start condition...To see if spray pattern is correct you can use a timing light if available...Hook it up as normal (red positive post and black negative post and pick-up on #1 spark plug wire) point light at injector and have assistant crank engine light allows visibility to spray pattern.....also check the fuel pressure regulator and vacuum lines....Hope this helped you..let me know if I can help anyfurther....Good Luck!!!!