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Did air get into the master cylinder? If you can, try bleeding the master cylinder. The fact that you aren't getting any fluid out of the line suggests that the master cylinder isn't pumping fluid.
Master cylinders are (usually) on a split circuit system - that is, the front left brake is on the same line as the rear right. The front right brake is on the same circuit as the rear left.
A point to be aware of is when bleeding brakes/doing brake work and if the master cylinder runs dry, is that a seal inside the master cylinder can fail/twist over and not pressurise that particular line, even though it may pressurise the opposite brake line.
I'm in the UK. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 litre, which I am slowly rebuilding. Three weeks ago I fitted new front brake rotors, new front callipers and pads. I've been rebuilding cars for over 40 years now and have done countless brake overhauls.
.. and could I get a hard pedal after the job was completed? I must have bled the brakes three times a day for a week and couldn't get a brake pedal. I phoned a full time mechanic I know - he came and tried to bleed the brakes three times and couldn't get a hard pedal.
That's when you think 'The master cylinder was working before I started the job so it must be still working now'.
I fitted a brand new master cylinder and because some parts for older jeeps are hard to come by in the UK, I fitted a second hand proportioning valve. When I bled the brakes again the pedal became rock solid. Fixed.
You're probably fed up with your braking problem now ... and apparently this 'no fluid/brake pedal' is more common than you may think.
Try bleeding the master cylinder if you can. If you suspect that it isn't fully working - try an overhaul kit which is cheaper than a new master cylinder.
As for changing the proportioning valve .. that's your decision. My brakes now work though the truth is I don't actually know which was at fault as I changed both the master cylinder and proportioning valve at the same time. Maybe both were at fault, for whatever reason. I genuinely don't know.
The positive aspect is that you are doing your own work and know what you're doing. You're saving on labour charges.
Try bleeding it, if that doesnt work you will need a new master cylinder/ master cylinder rebuild kit, brake seals or brake line, depending on whats leaking. The master cylinder and brake line can come off ANY bike as long as they are the right length (brake line) or fit on the handle bars (master cylinder)
Unplug the brake lines from master cylinder. Be careful with brake fluid spilling out, it is toxic and corrosive.If needed use a plastic container to collect fluid.
Disconnect electrical connectors.
Unscrew the nuts securing the master cylinder to the brake booster.
Remove master cylinder.
Perform procedure in reverse order to install the new master cylinder. After installation is complete, refill the master cylinder with brake fluid and perform brake bleeding procedure.Use only brake fluid stated in manufacturer specifications.
Here a diagram. The master cylinder is part 10 below reservoir part 9:
Do not despair, you have your work cut out for you but it is a relatively easy fix. Your brake master cylinders are dirty and plugged with rust. You will have to take apart and clean your brake master cylinders. Consider purchasing the rebuild kits and replacing all the rubber parts in the master cylinders and the caliper pistons. This will ensure you many trouble free years of operation in the future. If funds are tight a simple cleaning of the master cylinder reusing the old parts may suffice. When you rebuild your master cylinder you will need to look down the reservoir at the large brake fluid feeder hole. Right next to it is a tiny pin hole. That is the brake fluid return hole for the reservoir. It is probably plugged with rust or dirt. When it is plugged , if you drive a short distance and the wheel locks up. Open the bleeder screw to release a squirt of fluid and you can drive back home before it locks up again. Clean out the hole with a single straight bristle from a wire brush and see if that fixes the problem. You may not need to disassemble any thing to get the systems working properly but you will need to do a thorough bleeding to get all the debris out of the brake lines. This is a common problem on all older machines when the brake fluid is allowed to sit in the system for many years unchanged. Use only new DOT 3/4 brake fluid when refilling the reservoir. First , cover your cycle with plastic and a towel (brake fluid will damage your plastic and paint), remove your brake lever, remove the reservoir, use a clean lint free rag to soak up the fluid in the reservoir, grab the rubber cover that brake lever pushes on and gently pull it out (if it tears a new one comes in the kit from Honda). Using an internal snap ring pliers, remove the inner circlip, now you can remove the master cylinder plunger. Use the old plunger as a reference for putting the new rubber pieces on the metal plunger in the kit (it comes disassembled). Gently wipe out the inside of the master cylinder with a lint free cloth. DO NOT HONE OR SAND THE INSIDE OR YOU WILL RUIN THE CYLINDER. Make sure the pin hole is clear and reassemble. Loosen the banjo fitting for a couple of pumps while bleeding to get the air out of the master cylinder , this will make bleeding easier.
Rebuilding the master cylinder is relatively easy. Simply purchase a rebuild kit, take the master cylinder off the bike, Take the lever off and then most of the internal parts will simply come right out. With the internals out, you'll probably need to lightly hone the bore with a flex hone of the proper size. Lubricate the parts and install them just as they came out and reassemble the master cylinder. Then bleed the cylinder, hook up the brake hose on the bike and bleed the brakes at the caliper.
REMOVING Removing the master cylinder is really simple, only requiring a few steps. Keep in mind that brake fluid will eat the paint of the car. So use a plastic or vinyl type fender cover to protect the vehicle's paint. Brake fluid is water soluble so if you should get some on the paint, wash it off with plenty of water as quickly as possible.
Using a siphon, an old turkey baster works great, empty the master cylinder reservoir and dispose of the old brake fluid in the proper manner.
Disconnect the wire connector for the brake fluid level and/or brake pressure-warning switch, if your vehicle is so equipped.
Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder with a line wrench. A line wrench is specially designed to remove and install hydraluic fittings without rounding them off.
Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts, then the master cylinder.
On non-power brake vehicles, disconnect the master cylinder linkage from the brake pedal underneath the dash.
On models with separate fluid reservoirs, remove the reservoir.
Before installing the new master cylinder on the vehicle, it must first be bled using a specialized bleeder kit. The master-cylinder bleeder kit comes with tubing, clips and multiple adapters. Most new or rebuilt master cylinders come with a bleeder kit for that particular master cylinder.
Begin by removing the cap.
Follow the directions that come with the kit to select the suitable adapters, and then connect the adapters and tubes to the ports on the cylinder. The other ends of the tube extend down into the master cylinder, and are held in place by a plastic clip. Figure 2.
With the bleeder kit installed, fill the master cylinder about halfway with new brake fluid. Use a large screwdriver to depress the valve assembly inside the master cylinder. If you do not have a vise you can mount the master cylinder on the vacuum brake booster and bleed the master cylinder.
Small bubbles will appear in the fluid. Continue working the valve assembly until no more bubbles appear. This indicates that the cylinder has been thoroughly bled.Reverse the removal procedure to install the master cylinder, noting the following Refer to your service manual for any Master Cylinder Push Rod Adjustment procedures if your vehicle requires it.Bleed brakes as described under Brake Bleeding.Operate the brakes several times and check for external hydraulic leaks.This is fairly straightforward job. Replacing a master cylinder should take you about 1 to 2 hours, depending on the make and model of car. If you are rebuilding the master cylinder, add about another hour or so.
non return type blockage in the brake master cylinder. Requires stripping the master and replacing valve. A big bleed may help to clear the fault. Fluid is leaving the reservoir and unable to return. Fluid only flowing one way. See your dealer if you are not confident in re-building the master cylinder.