Question about Motorcycles
The scooter up until about 4 or 5 weeks ago would start up immediately even when cold. The scooter now takes a long time to start and more often than not I flatten the battery trying to start the scooter. However during my time trying to start the scooter, it does fire once or twice. After then charging the battery I can more often than not get the scooter running. I can then go about my business out and about on the scooter without it stopping or breaking down on me. The scooter engine whilst warm will then stop and start when ever I want it to. When I then leave the scooter engine stopped for about an hour or two, I then have the same problem as earlier in trying to start the scooter engine again. Frances.
Posted by Anonymous on
You need to check that your automatic enricher (often called an auto-choke) is working. You should find then when the engine is cold, the scooter hasn't ran for at least an hour, the enricher will be short. Take it out of the carb and measure the plunger. Put it back into the carb. Then start the scooter and let it run for 5 minutes. Quickly remove the enricher, being careful around anything hot, and measure the plunger again. If there is no change, it's not working. The attached link may help you to understand what I'm talking about better.
Automatic Enricher Operation 10x Speed Choke Bypass Bystarter
You should also check the condition of your spark plug. If it's fouled, damaged, or gapped wrong it could be making starting more difficult.
A battery in poor condition will also make it harder to start. Battery checks link below.
Scooter Battery Checks
Good luck with it.
Posted on Nov 23, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The problem seem to involve a number of circuits, I would suspect the Key switch as it supplies power to all affected systems. The dieing on release of the clutch is usually the kickstand safety switch. If the kick stand is not up, and the bike in gear, then when the clutch switch detects release is kills the engine so you don't kill your self.
Check or replace these switches.
Hope this is of some help.
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
solenoid needs a diode across it with stripe on positive side.
can be a vacume air lock try open fuel cap to start cold to see if starts?
or sounds to me that the orfice is to small on the cold start port or dirty ...not enough fuel due to your hand choking
other is a air leak between carb to intake valve/port
when engine running spray some WD-40 around intake gaskets to see if rpm picks up if do its leaking
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
The air screw and the idle screw turn inward until they LIGHTLY seat, then back out one and one half turns. For the dead spot, pull the slide out of the carb and move the clip on the jet needle down one notch. Two notches if needed.
The pilot jet covers the idle function. It sounds like this is not the problem though. The high idle indicates a lean fuel mix. An air leak is leaning the mix. It could be bad intake manifold gaskets, carb and manifold not down tight, loose spark plug, cylinder head not tight, bad head gasket.
If you do want to adjust the pilot jet the, often it is adjustable from the outside of the carb. It is normally located just out side and next to the main jet. It will be brass and have a slot for a small screw driver. If no outside screw, then an inside adjustment screw means removing the float bowl. Turn the jet screw outward 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
Here's the deal. I have never even heard of your bike brand but I have 18 years in bike repair. If you promise not to give me anything less than a "helpful" rating I will tell you how to do the fix based on the assumption that the bike has a standard carb and not a CV carb. The standard carb has a top "cap" that unscrews from the center of the carb body.
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine. Now unscrew the top cap and pull the slide out of the throat of the carb. When you re-install the slide, be sure the long notch on the side of the slide lines up with the small pin inside the throat of the carb.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
Please rate this solution. Thanks!
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
If the bike has sat for a long period of time without being run - the gas that is sitting in the carb(s) will shellac.. Then the carb(s) would need to be cleaned and "rebuilt"..
Posted on Sep 14, 2009
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