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Remove switch to change handlebars

2014 FLHXS

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  • Harley Davidson Master
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Yes, you should.

Posted on Dec 29, 2013

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I inherited a 2014 Dyna Street Bob, owner b4 tried changing handlebars, wires on er harness don't match colors, code U1042 comes up no contact with Ecm & bcu to rhcm, what to do I've tried everything


he must have changed the harnesses also with the new handle bars. see if he has the original equipment with the harnesses. the new harnesses may not be compatible with the Harley set up and you make have to get the wiring print to see if it so.

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How to remove electrical harness to rewire changing handlebars


Hi Anonymous, for more information about your question please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice day.
Motorcycle Handlebars How to Install Internal Wiring Video Guide Tip of...

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1 Answer

I want to change the handlebars on my 09 road king. How does the throttle sensor come out?


TWIST GRIP SENSOR 4.10


REMOVAL

Remove the left side saddlebag, remove the left side cover, remove the main fuse, (Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing the 5/32 inch (4.0 mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch. Use the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap if the cardboard insert is not available.), place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket, remove the upper and the lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing, remove the lower clamp screw with its flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar (a light tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from their receptacle in the twist grip sensor seal cap), if present, pull the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit from the holes in the handlebar. FOR FLHR/C: remove the headlamp and the handlebar clamp shroud, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud on the fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and disconnect it, FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U remove the outer fairing, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud at the top of the right fairing support brace (inboard side) and disconnect it, FOR FLTR remove the outer fairing and bezel and disconnect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black). (Note that the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if the twist grip sensor is pulled too strongly and a damaged latch will prevent a positive pin and socket housing engagement and also since the connector is not serviceable, any damage requires replacement of the twist grip sensor jumper harness. THEN gently pull the twist grip sensor out of handlebar only as far as necessary to access the green twist grip sensor connector. FOR BEST RESULTS straighten out the conduit on the Molex connector end of the jumper harness and feed it through the slot at the front of the handlebar while pulling it and if the harness sticks inside handlebar while pulling on the twist grip sensor, pull the Molex connector end to retract the harness somewhat and then try again gently working the harness back and forth in this manner until the twist grip sensor connector is accessible. (Note again, that if the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if pried and that a damaged latch will prevent positive pin and socket housings engagement and that since the connector is not serviceable, any damage will require twist grip sensor jumper harness replacement). THEN gently insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the pin and socket housings and when the bottom edge of the latch is engaged separate the housings. (Do not pivot or rotate the screwdriver after insertion or damage to the pin housing will occur), remove the twist grip sensor.


INSTALLATION

(Take note that each twist grip sensor contains the terminals for installation of a heated throttle grip available through P&A and that while the seal cap protects the terminals from dirt and moisture it also serves as a retention device for installation of the throttle grip.)


Verify that seal cap is installed at end of the twist grip sensor. If the seal cap is not present, proceed by seeing if the seal cap is engaged onto the index pins inside the throttle grip and if so use a stiff piece of mechanics wire to lasso seal cap and pull it free of the index pins. If it is missing or damaged get a new one. THEN check the condition of the O-ring on the seal cap and because the O-ring is not sold separately a new seal cap will be required if the O-ring needs to be replaced. Install the seal cap engaging the legs in the slots at the end of the twist grip sensor. For best results try installing one leg first and depressing the second leg slightly with a small flat blade screwdriver push down on the seal cap until it is fully installed. THEN connect the green twist grip sensor connector and gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the twist grip sensor into the handlebar. THEN fit the index tabs on the twist grip sensor into the slots in the handlebar noting that one index tab and slot are smaller than the others to prevent improper assembly. THEN slide the throttle grip over the end of the handlebar rotate the grip to verify that the internal splines are engaged with the splines on the twist grip sensor. (Take note now that it is not necessary to hold the throttle grip onto the handlebar because the index pins in the grip engage the receptacle in the seal cap of the twist grip sensor preventing the grip from sliding off). THEN position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle grip so the ribs at the end of the throttle grip engage the slot in the lower switch housing. THEN position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and the lower switch housing, start the upper and lower switch housing screws but do not tighten them at this point, verify that the wire harness conduit runs in the depression at bottom of handlebar, put the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket, align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and start the lower screw with its flat washer, position it for rider comfort but do not pull the switch housings so far inboard as to cause the throttle grip to bind or drag on the handlebar and rotate the throttle grip to verify that it freely returns to the idle position. THEN starting with the top screw tighten the handlebar clamp screws to 72-80 in-lbs (8-9 Nm) always tightening the lower switch housing screw first, so that any gap between the upper and lower housings is at the front of the switch assembly. THEN tighten the lower and upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4-5 Nm), remove the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket and FOR FLHR/C connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install it on its T-stud on fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and install the handlebar clamp shroud and headlamp. FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U draw the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and conduit forward to the front of the upper fork bracket, and then route it under the right radio support bracket to the area behind the fairing support brace, connect the connector and install it on its T-stud at top of fairing support brace (inboard side) and install the outer fairing. FOR FLTR connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install the outer fairing and bezel. THEN, if present, install the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit into the holes in the handlebar install the main fuse, install the left side cover and install the left side saddlebag. (NOTE that whenever a new twist grip sensor (or ECM) is installed, you must put the engine run/stop switch in the RUN position and turn the ignition/light keyswitch to IGNITION and then back to OFF four times (without starting engine), allowing at least three seconds to elapse between ignition cycles. This is done because the ECM uses the first four ignition cycles to establish the optimum idle speed and so there may be initial performance problems such as high idle or hesitation when the throttle is opened if the procedure is not followed.) THEN turn the ignition/light key switch to IGNITION and apply the brake lever to test the correct operation of the brake lamp.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR JUMPER HARNESS

Removal

Remove the twist grip sensor. Get a length of strong flexible mechanics wire of sufficient strength to pull the conduit and connector through the handlebar without breaking AND of sufficient length that the free end will not be lost in the handlebar when pulled. THEN securely attach the mechanics wire to the jumper harness inboard of the twist grip sensor connector pin housing and for best results, install the mechanics wire onto the conduit to keep it from bunching up inside of the handlebar when it is pulled. THEN gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the conduit, the connector and the mechanics wire out through the slot at the front of the handlebar and if the harness sticks at all inside of the handlebar, pull back on the twist grip sensor connector end to retract the harness slightly and then try again to gently work the harness back and forth in this manner until it is free. THEN remove the mechanics wire from the jumper harness.


Mar 29, 2012 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

1 Answer

How to change head set also replace front fork?


Loosen clamp at top of bike frame where seat slides in ...twist seat back and forth while lifting upward.......To remove ft. fork ..At handlebar assy.remove allen bolt..(some are hidden by rubber plug)..remove handlebar assy/remove large nut at top of frame where handlebar slides down in..
...twist and pull to remove front fork....some have upper and lower nut depending which bike.

Feb 27, 2011 | Cannondale Jekyll 600

1 Answer

BRAKE LIGHT STAYS


Usually, if a brake light is staying on, it's because of the front brake light switch. The switch is located in the right handlebar switch housing and is operated by a tang on the backside of the brake lever. Try loosening the bolts that hold the front brake master cylinder on the handlebars and slide the master cylinder out on the bars so that it is as close to the right handlebar switch housing as possible. If this doesn't extinguish the brake light, the switch is probably bad and needs replacing.

To replace the switch, you'll have to take the switch housing apart. Loosen the throttle cables and remove the two screws that hold the switch housing together. Take the cables out of the throttle sleeve and get the switch housing away from the handlebars. Remove the small screw that holds the switch into the housing. The earlier models had the switch soldered in. Not sure about the later models but you'll have to either solder the wires for the new switch or plug them on. Reassemble the housing in the opposite order. Be careful when you adjust the throttle cables. The throttle must operate properly, smoothly, and snap shut when you release the throtttle. If the throttle does not operate properly it could result in serious injury or death. Make sure that throttle works right.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 11, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FXSTD - FXSTDI...

1 Answer

Need to chnage the handlebar grips on my 2006 wide glide


The left side grip just slips onto the handlebars. There may be some glue to help hold it on. I usually take a very small bladed screwdriver and slide it between the handlebar and the grip and spray some WD40 or something in there. You may have to loosen the bolts that hold the switch housing on and move it inward to the center of the handlebars just a bit to get the screwdriver under the grip.

On the right hand side, things are a bit different. The handlebar grip is on a plastic tube that operates the throttle cables. To get it off, you must loosen both of the cables at the adjusters. Then, take the bolts out that hold the top and bottom halves of the switch housing together. Seperate the switch housing so that you can get to the cables in the housing. Carefully, remove the cables and the ferrells from the twist grip and remove it.

Lubricate the new throttle sleeve with white lithium grease and slide in onto the handlebars. Reinstall the throttle and idle cables with their ferrells in the appropiate slots. Reassemble the switch housing and readjust the throttle and idle cables. Check for proper operation prior to starting the engine.

Good Luck
Steve

May 09, 2010 | 2006 Harley Davidson FXDWGI Dyna Wide...

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