Question about Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hi I have 6.5 kva
can't do the wiring diagram atm but can walk you though the basic diagnostic steps thi will at least isolate the misbehaving circuit.
1 one cause loss of power though the switch. You have power to run the motor while in the start position but lose it when released. Internally it makes contact supplying power to the exciter circuit on the alternator, but when you release it more than like likely the switch is bad.. in the run position without cranking check power out ot the switch also most marine applications are 2 wire check your grounds are hooks up. the go to the alt the is a small wire which will be you exciter wire. take a test light disconnect it from the back of the alt and turn the Ing. switch to run don't crank it over yet. Ground the test wire to the block. but the tip in the wire you disconnected.. you get a light? yes go to next step if not check switch and check for ground to the block if you dont know how read a little further down;. take you test light connect to the positive wire that goes to the back of the alt the DC + larger red one from battery that is the charge wire connect test light to that one and touch the block does it light ? no check wire to battery check ground and hot side for an open circuit. if you grounded the test light to the block in the last step and the check for a light and had one the ground circuit is goo if not go to the battery sting a jumper wire to where you can reach it while having the test connect to the battery charge wire at the back of the alt do you get a LIGHT YES OKAY GND IS GOOD. now repeat with the charge wire get a light ? iF yes pull alt and take in or repairs if got light both times last two steps. if not the you have a open circuit or a bad ground or the hot side .. trace wiring back with test every few feet or so till you find the break repair re-test system. If you could give more infor on the system ( i'm not familiar with this one at all just know the alt and for what you said is enough to get you thought the basic diagnostic)) i could draw you a wiring diagram off the top of my head fairly quickly.. and send it to you but would have to quiz you on the system.
I worked for bosch electrical for 15 years as a field technical engineer 1st class in europe.. was the lead no code diagnostic specialist for the whole iberian peninsula. and taught automotive technologies for 3 years and hold a 5 year Electromechanical Eng, degree. so i have a some idea of what's going on just to explain it in dept would take about five time the space. it could be a simple as a lose ground of something as rare a nomaly open positive actived imtermintae durty relay on the powerboard switching unit is bad ciruit board is bad.. both rare one i 50 ish chance i would say 4 top probable causes are bad ing switch, loss of ground or power at the block/alt area loss of ignition to lat (again bad switch or relay. ba starter solenoid check post 51a for hot while cranking should stay hot the continue to be hot until you shut the switch of or it is only hot while cranking depending on the model. this elec will dirve you nuts.
Posted on Dec 02, 2013
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 01, 2017 | Kubota Garden
Jul 19, 2017 | Garden
Jun 12, 2017 | Cars & Trucks
Jun 07, 2017 | Kubota Garden
May 16, 2017 | Kubota Garden
Jul 23, 2014 | Cars & Trucks
Jul 03, 2012 | Motorcycles
123 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!