Question about 1996 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A

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My clutch will not disengage, so I added some fluid to it but I don't know how to bleed the clutch line.

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Make sure you know why the fluid was low in the first place, but here's how you bleed anything:

What you need:
>18" of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly on the bleeder nipple on the side of the engine but not over the wrench flats,
>Box end wrench that fits nipple perfectly.

Place the box end wrench on the nipple and make sure you can swing the wrench to loosen the bleeder. Place one end of the tube onto the nipple (with the wrench in place) and place the end of the tube into a jar or plastic bottle of waste brake fluid.

Bleeding the clutch or brakes following this procedure:

1. Top off the reservoir with brake fluid, leave lid off or temporarily replace it, if fluid can spill during bleeding.

2. Cyle the lever slowly (one thousand one, one thousand two...) three times.

3. At the end of the third cycle open the bleeder while holding the lever down. KEEP THE LEVER DOWN)

4. Close the bleeder once the fluid stops flowing ~5 secs.

5. Once the bleeder is closed securely you can release the lever. Repeat steps 2-5 about twenty times or until no small bubbles are seen coming out of the bleeder. CHECK and fill the fluid level in the reservoir before every second cycles. (If you run out of fluid you will have to start all over.)

Hope this helps,

Kal

Posted on May 18, 2009

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2 Answers

After driving down bumpy road my clutch does not seem to disengage, after it sits awhile it works fine, 2009 ford ranger


The hydraulic fluid level in the clutch master cylinder may be low. The rough ride can cause the fluid to fill with air bubbles. If the fluid has air in it, it will not compress properly and therefore the clutch will not disengage.

Mar 29, 2017 | Ford Ranger Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to bleed hydraulic clutch


Instructions:

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

Alternate Technique: (these provided by Dirk). Here is one way you can try that really worked great for him.

1) Disconnect the hose from the bottom of the fluid reservoir
2) Use a hand pump to manually force the fluid down the line.
3) Reconnect line to reservoir after process and fill fluid as needed.

Note: The reverse bleeding procedure will not work on all rangers. Some rangers' bleeder is nothing but a tapered hex bolt with a hole in it, no real way to get a good seal on it.

Jul 17, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to repair broken clutch line


I just fixed one.There is a small pin that you can push out to remove the coupling that pushes into slave cyclider. Then you have to heat up silver soder or brazing that holds tube into square fitting that goes into slave. After removing do the opposite to braze in new tube. If you know were the line is bad cut it about 3 inches further away to make sure you have a good strong tube to splice from. You will need 2 compression fittings one to splice the one your adding and one for the original line. The fun part comes trying to bleed out air after its back together Takes at least 30 pumps between each opening of bleeder that's located on back of slave unit. And make sure that you never leave the resevour run low or dry on fluid while bleeding or your going to have to start over.You will need to keep adding fluid throughout bleeding process. Regular brake fluid is what is used for clutch. Good luck

Apr 11, 2012 | GMC C1500 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Just put in new clutch in 2001 f150 2wd 4.2 also new slave and master cylinder and pedal safety switch. After bleeding the pedal feels fine but the clutch does not seem to engage as the shifter will not...


what you mean is the clutch is not disengaging the transmission from the engine, so you can shift it.

This is always due to air trapeed in the clutch system. It is very hard to purge the air.

You may have to have a shop use their evac/fill equipment, if they have it.

Try raising the front of the truck as high as you can, including facing uphill. The air is likely trapped at the slave cylinder, not at the clutch.

There is a video on you tube showing a guy purging air from a Ranger. See if you can view it.

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

May 20, 2011 | 1989 Ford F 150

1 Answer

1986 Aspencade clutch not working properly, you put in gear bike jumps and stalls. Added DOT4 brake fluid, but I need to bleed the line. Don't know where that is located to do this. Thanks for any help you...


Do I understand you added DOT fluid to your engine to fix your clutch problem?

Clutch is normally activated by a cable while brakes are activated through a master cyclender which uses DOT fluid.

If you have brake fluid in your engine ... get it out immediately. It might be time to get help from your local Honda Shop.

Sep 21, 2010 | Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing...

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I have a 2007 VW Touran, recently serviced. After a motorway run using the cruise control I often find the clutch feels as if it had lost all hydraulic pressure and I have to pump the pedal to get the...


It might be the brake & clutch fluid wrong because it is too old inside. First time change the brake & clutch fluid. If the problem persists then replace both clutch master hydraulic cylinder and clutch receiver hydraulic cylinder. Bleed also correctly the clutch hydraulic line!

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the clutch fluid maybe low or you may have a bad clutch slave or master cylinder

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Clutch will not disengage pedal to the floor


Sounds like a Clutch Slave Cylinder. Check under your front canopy for a small reservoir (looks like a brake fluid reservoir) on the firewall inline with the brake pedal or it may be up under the dash. Check the fluid level. If it is low or empty you could refill it and bleed (drain the air) from the slave cylinder line, found where the transmision and engine connect. Just adding fluid wont fix it, as if it is this simple, you have air in the hydraulic line. This would be an easy fix. However, I think your Slave cylinder failed or you have a more serious clutch replacement ahead. The slave is easy, bolts on and then you just bleed the line as noted before. Any shop could replace a slave cylinder for 2-3 hours of labor. Good luck

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Chevy s-10 clutchwill not disengage


Have you checked to make sure you still have fluid in your clutch master cylinder reservoir? If there is no fluid left or the reservoir looks low, can you see any sighns of leakage? If it looks ok, try bleeding your clutch master cylinder - you possibly have air in the line. If you try all of this and it still doesn't work - most likely your master cylinder has in internal seal leak and needs to be rebuilt/replaced.

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