Hi. i have a 98 chevy 4x4 k 2500. the spider injectors wont hold fuel pressure

ok. i have the fuel pressure gauge on the line. i get in and turn the key, the gauge goes up to 65 pounds, fuel pump kicks off and gauge drops back to zero. the gas is going back down the return line to the tank. its suppose to hold pressure in the spider and wont. ok. i have the fuel pressure gauge on the line. i get in and turn the key, the gauge goes up to 65 pounds, fuel pump kicks off and gauge drops back to zero. the gas is going back down the return line to the tank. its suppose to hold pressure in the spider and wont.

i put a new fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump in. i put a new fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump in.

defective spider... key on computer cycles fuel pump for two seconds, will not turn it back on until it sees oil pressure... most likely you have a blown defective regulator defective spider... key on computer cycles fuel pump for two seconds, will not turn it back on until it sees oil pressure... most likely you have a blown defective regulator

i have other spider injectors ive tried and there the same way, dont understand how the spiders work.it starts and quits, but its tore apart now, trying to figure it out. oil pressure was above 40 the last time it ran i have other spider injectors ive tried and there the same way, dont understand how the spiders work.it starts and quits, but its tore apart now, trying to figure it out. oil pressure was above 40 the last time it ran

how about we start over... whats the problem ??? how about we start over... whats the problem ???

how do you know its returning to the tank and not leaking out of an injector??? how do you know its returning to the tank and not leaking out of an injector???

i have it all toar apart. no injectors are leaking. took return off and it pours right out. not sure if my new fuel pressure regulator is bad. spiders are really exspensive. hate to buy one and thats not the problem. i have it all toar apart. no injectors are leaking. took return off and it pours right out. not sure if my new fuel pressure regulator is bad. spiders are really exspensive. hate to buy one and thats not the problem.

I know they are. I would check the regulator for proper installation. you say it pours out? does it pour out when the fuel pump is on for those 2 seconds ??? yes, then check and recheck the regulator. if everything looks good then suspect a spider assy cracked internally ??? I know they are. I would check the regulator for proper installation. you say it pours out? does it pour out when the fuel pump is on for those 2 seconds ??? yes, then check and recheck the regulator. if everything looks good then suspect a spider assy cracked internally ???

ok. appreciate it. it holds pressure till pump kicks off. im heading out to garage to mess with it some more. ok. appreciate it. it holds pressure till pump kicks off. im heading out to garage to mess with it some more.

then it can't be flowing out the regulator... because the regulator is holding pressure... that is a spring loaded pressure regulator if I remember correctly and the only way it can bypass is in the event of over pressurization... then it can't be flowing out the regulator... because the regulator is holding pressure... that is a spring loaded pressure regulator if I remember correctly and the only way it can bypass is in the event of over pressurization...

nope. its like the gas goes in and turns around and runs back out the return line. nope. its like the gas goes in and turns around and runs back out the return line.

OK so here is what I am understanding... You turn the key on, the fuel pump cycles for two seconds and the gas pours out as fast as the pump feeds it ??? Then you have a malfunctioning pressure regulator, a damaged spider assy and/or both. Now what's puzzling is how you managed to get pressure because you shouldn't unless the regulator is blowing open after it reaches your mentioned 65 psi and then it wont close until all pressure is gone which should led to a defective regulator. So with all this being said. It comes down to back to where you started. Which is what I asked earlier. What was the original problem ??? OK so here is what I am understanding... You turn the key on, the fuel pump cycles for two seconds and the gas pours out as fast as the pump feeds it ??? Then you have a malfunctioning pressure regulator, a damaged spider assy and/or both. Now what's puzzling is how you managed to get pressure because you shouldn't unless the regulator is blowing open after it reaches your mentioned 65 psi and then it wont close until all pressure is gone which should led to a defective regulator. So with all this being said. It comes down to back to where you started. Which is what I asked earlier. What was the original problem ???

truck starts and quits, will only hold pressure when fuel pump is running, when pump shuts off pressure drops to zero, and gas goes down to tank threw the return line truck starts and quits, will only hold pressure when fuel pump is running, when pump shuts off pressure drops to zero, and gas goes down to tank threw the return line

i put two more regulators on that are used that a guy let me borrow. still did the same thing. i put two more regulators on that are used that a guy let me borrow. still did the same thing.

truck starts and quits... which makes sense, pressure then none... it doesnt run long enough to build oil pressure to keep pump running because there is not fuel pressure... ok do you see where I am going here... plug the return line and see if the truck stays running. if it does then the spider is the problem... pressure regulator is vacuum control through the intake plenum if I remember... without vacuum it should hold pressure until the oil pressure kicks up and causes pump to turn on and then with vacuum applied to regulator it keeps the static pressure somewhere between 35-45 psi... so with the engine not running the regulator should hold pressure for hours, roughly... does this all make sense now truck starts and quits... which makes sense, pressure then none... it doesnt run long enough to build oil pressure to keep pump running because there is not fuel pressure... ok do you see where I am going here... plug the return line and see if the truck stays running. if it does then the spider is the problem... pressure regulator is vacuum control through the intake plenum if I remember... without vacuum it should hold pressure until the oil pressure kicks up and causes pump to turn on and then with vacuum applied to regulator it keeps the static pressure somewhere between 35-45 psi... so with the engine not running the regulator should hold pressure for hours, roughly... does this all make sense now

doesnt matter if there is a problem internally with the spider... you can hang new/used regulators all day long. if it cant seat properly the regulator is going to leak past. if something is in the holding it open, its not going to seat properly.... if you plug the return line and cycle the key and it holds pressure, you know your problem is with the spider assy... I don't recall GM every using an electronic regulator... correct me if I am wrong then we look at a hole other problem... doesnt matter if there is a problem internally with the spider... you can hang new/used regulators all day long. if it cant seat properly the regulator is going to leak past. if something is in the holding it open, its not going to seat properly.... if you plug the return line and cycle the key and it holds pressure, you know your problem is with the spider assy... I don't recall GM every using an electronic regulator... correct me if I am wrong then we look at a hole other problem...

everytime i turn key to make fuel pump run, gauge goes to 65, pump shuts off, gauge drops to zero, i unhooked the return line, had a friend turn the key, and gas came out of the return, when pump shut off gas kept running till drained everytime i turn key to make fuel pump run, gauge goes to 65, pump shuts off, gauge drops to zero, i unhooked the return line, had a friend turn the key, and gas came out of the return, when pump shut off gas kept running till drained

dont run it very long with the return line plugged as you will dead head your pump and potentially blow it out... dont run it very long with the return line plugged as you will dead head your pump and potentially blow it out...

ok, good thing you said that cause i been thinking about putting in a shut off valve to see if truck would run, keeping some gas from draining back. ok, good thing you said that cause i been thinking about putting in a shut off valve to see if truck would run, keeping some gas from draining back.

ok. somehow i didnt see your other comments, makes sence, no they didnt make an electronic one, im a big chevy fan, but this is the worst designed motor they ever built ok. somehow i didnt see your other comments, makes sence, no they didnt make an electronic one, im a big chevy fan, but this is the worst designed motor they ever built

no its a horrible design for the fuel injection system... the engine itself is actually pretty good... A simple carb, ignition swap and you'll gain about 60 hp :-) no its a horrible design for the fuel injection system... the engine itself is actually pretty good... A simple carb, ignition swap and you'll gain about 60 hp :-)

i have been thinking about it, just not sure what all i would have to do to make it run i have been thinking about it, just not sure what all i would have to do to make it run