Question about Yamaha Motorcycles
Bar ends tend to get really stuck from corrosion (rust). The best way I found, an air impact gun, much like the ones used in tire shops to remove and install the wheels on cars. A less expensive option is to get a manual or hammer driven impact driver to do the same work.
Tool 3 8 in Impact Drivers 71700
This is an example of the hammer driven tool, no endorsement implied. I have no idea what brand mine is.
The tool can be selected to turn Right or left. When you hit it with a hammer the tool is driven into the fastener (bar end) and induces a slight twist. This shock load works great for loosening tight threads.
Posted on Jan 08, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Fuel tank parts
Don't get a new one!!! If you're anyway handy, drain the tank, slip it off the bike & turn it upside down. Scribe a mark on the body of the unit to the tank to ensure you get it lined up again rebuilding. Unscrew the 4 retaining screws holding the sender unit in place. The rubber seal can be used again but examine it first. Carefully remove the sender unit, it's crooked in parts so you need to twist it at strange angles to get it out. Once it's out you will see the float/metal rod attached to a black bakealite holder. There is a tiny star shaped washer holding it in place, very easy to lose. Prise off the washer. Keep it safe. Upon inspection of the bakealite holder(potentiometer) you will see the metal rod has elongated the hole and thus sends a wrong signal to the fuel gauge on the dash. To counter this, get yourself some plumbers tape, the very thin stuff, and wrap it round the metal bar where it goes through the potentiometer, the part that is most worn. The trick is to get the metal rod to sit evenly & square to send the correct signal to the gauge. You may have to add or deduct some tape but make sure the float/rod moves freely before you rebuild it. This sounds gimmicky but in essence it's really handy and you save £50 on a new sender unit. Before you refit the little washer, gently squeeze it between a flat pair of pliers to tighten the little gripper teeth, then refit it. Press it home with pointy nose pliers. To test it you can attach it to the multiplug on the bike and move it manually with your hand whilst watching the dash. You should have a working fuel gauge. Mines been repaired like this for 4.5 years and it's as accurate as it was before it went wonky. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
SOURCE: tip of pilotscrew is broken
spot weld a screw to it using a MIG welder, make sure you take the carb off the bike 1st, and that its free from fuel, or vapours, else it will catch fire, once a screw is welded to it, use that screw to undo your other, as they are now classed as a complete screw, it should come out with ease.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Apr 30, 2011
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