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Fuel runs into Air filter throu Gizmo on 124 Hipster and drains onto ground.

Fuel comes out of Air filter box? This is a high volume of fuel and not normal. The bike runs but this is dangerous.

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  • Wessel dippenaar
    Wessel dippenaar Dec 30, 2013

    The fuel spurted from the oil breather pipe and pushed up into the air filter box. This happened after I flooded the bike as it did not run for a few weeks.. I drained the oil and added new. the problem seems solved. no more fuel spurting. I will keep watching it but there was no problem the last year. I think it is solved.

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SOURCE: oil blowing out of trans breather tube

hi 81 yamaha i am concerned about the fuel smell coming out with the oil. could be the carbs flooding filling your crankcase with fuel? if not it sounds like you have blow by which would cause your crank case to be slightly pressured. this is caused by worn piston rings. do not plug your crank vent. if you leave your vent open install small filter to stop dirt from entering jim

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SOURCE: 95 xv750 Virago fuel leak

Probabilly a stuk carburettor float or needle.
Try to solve this problem to gently tap on the carburettor bodies. If this doesn't help you have to clean out the carburettors, and/or replace the float neeldes

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SOURCE: I have a 1996 Honda CBR 600F3. Bike ran fine for

if all cylinders die at the same time should be fuel or electrical?

Posted on Aug 04, 2009

bulldogchief
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SOURCE: changed the air box for pod filters and now the

You need to re-jet your carburetors to compensate for the increased air flow. The bike is starving for fuel because the carburetors are jetted for the air box. Typically you would need to change the pilot jet and adjust the a/f mixture on the carbs. You didn't specify if your carbs were stock or modified so I am including a link for you that can guide you through the process. In the meantime, if your bike is a daily rider, put the stock air boxback on until you can re-jet the carburetor. Here is the link: http://www.dynoman.net/carb/pdf/mikRS-access.pdf

Posted on Oct 16, 2009

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SOURCE: f1 light comes on, bike dies. Is it air filter,

I am currently dealing with the same issue and have worked a way to figure out how to obtain the code yourself. Then you can cross-reference the code with which sensor is reporting the error.
All newer bikes these days are equipped with a connection point that shops may tap into in order to identify which connector is throwing the flag. The best part about this connection point is that anyone can access it without using any special tools or code readers. You just simply connect two wires together and the code will display in the same spot as the bike's odometer. You don't need to splice or cut or do damage whatsoever to the bike. I have used this technique and was extremely happy to figure it out!
The first thing you have to do is locate this special connector. It is located on the right side of the bike in the same location as the ECU. You only need remove one frame panel in order to gain access. Item labeled "1" in this picture is the panel you need to remove. You need a 6mm allen wrench to remove this panel. The botton right bolt is only for aethetics and will only continue to spin if you try to remove it. So, don't worry about that bolt. After you have the bolts of the panel removed, you will be able to pull the panel right off. There are rubber plugs that keep the panel attached, you just firmly pull and it will come right off.
Once you have the panel off you should see two connectors that are not connected to anything. One of them has a soft, black rubber cap on it. This is the connector you want. There are 4 wires that go into this plug. You only need to be concerned with two of them. There is a black wire with a white stripe, and there is a white wire with a red stripe. You need a paperclip or a small piece of wire. A paperclip would be easier to use. Put one end of the paperclip or wire into the hole of the connector where the black wire is. Then connect the other side of the paperclip or wire to the hole where the white wire is. So, basically, you are connecting the black wire and white wire together. Here is a completed connector for you to reference. This is an exact picture of what your C50 connector will look like. Once you have the paperclip in place, you just turn the bike on and take a look at the odometer. It will display a -C00 (dash, C, zero, zero) for about 2 or 3 seconds, and then it will display the current -C code. Take note of this code and then cross reference it with this list of codes.
C12 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR C13 - INTAKE AIR POSITION SENSOR C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1 C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2 C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3 C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4 C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1 C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2 C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3 C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4 C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (C50's need not worry) C49 - PAIR CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
Once you find out which code is yours, you should always start small. You may just have a blown fuse or a bad sensors. Fuses and sensors are very low cost items and are usually quite easy to replace. I highly recommend doing this yourself before taking it to a dealer where they'll just dilly dally for an hour before getting the code, when you can get the code yourself in about 10 minutes. It may or may not be a bad fuse or sensor, please remember that your bike may have something wrong and the sensor is simply reporting data that exceeds the acceptable range for the bike. So, if you check the fuse and replace the sensor, and the bike still returns the code, you may still need to have a more in-depth look via a dealer/shop.
Let me know how it goes!

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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