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it s something you can do yourself if you're mechanically inclined and pay attention to detail. there are some special tools you need, such as a fork spring compressor, fork seal driver, and snap ring pliers if you don't have any. the internal parts in the fork must go in the same way they came out, and all parts should be cleaned prior to reassembly. you should also consider replacing the bushings along with the fork seals and dust covers. might really want to consider letting a professional do it so that way the forks still don't leak after you put in the new parts.
dissassemble forks and replace fork seals.(and oil) becareful forks are under a lot of spring pressue. use a workbench vise to hold fork tubes. you will need the manual for this. plus you will need to know the "proper" amount of fluid to put back into the forks.
I was told by many people it was a hard job. I didn't think so.
What you need is: New Seals. 8mm Allen Key. Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender. Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device. Fork Oil + Measuring Jug. Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end. Spanners. Screw Drivers.
How to do:
First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)
Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.
Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.
Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).
From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.
Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.
Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).
Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.
Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.
Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.
If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.
One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.
Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.
Place New Oil Seal on Gently.
Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.
Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.
Slide Slider back onto Tube.
Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)
Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.
Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.
Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.
Replace Spring into Fork.
Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).
Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)
After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.
Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.
Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.
Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel
Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.
Replace back onto bike Calipers.
Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.
At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.
to remove seals you will need to remove each fork leg from the bike,i put the bike on the centre stand and jack under the motor to get the front wheel off the ground,after you remove the fork leg,remove the dust cover(if fitted),remove the circlip holding the old seal,you may have to stab through the old seal with a screwdriver to remove the seal from inside the leg(be carefull not to damage the chrome on the fork leg),clean around the surfaces and install the new seal making sure it goes back in dead square,refit the circlip,then refit the dust cover,replace fork tube back in bike and top up with new oil,most bikes take between 300 to 500cc of oil,but check with your local shop as all bikes are different,and you can adjust the amount of rebound damping by varying the amount of oil you put back in,..sounds complicated but quite an easy job..hope this helps
To replace the fork seal you must open the top of the fork and remove the spring. Then drop the fork tube out of the clamp. Once the fork tube is removed replacing the seal is simply pulling the old one off and putting the new one on. You will need to remove your front wheel.
Yep, drain the fork oil, raise the front wheel in the air, remove the front wheel and axle. The nut to remove the lower leg is at the bottom, hidden by the axle. If it still leaks after seal replacement your fork tubes and lower leg sliders are worn out. Reassemble and remove the top fork cap. Pour in the correct cc of fork oil and ride.