Question about 2004 Honda CR 125 R

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Sprocket foot pounds

Front sprocket foot pounds

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  • Honda Master
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If you got a locking tab that you bend lugs up to stop nut moving then 30 to 40 lbs will do ! P...

Posted on Dec 25, 2013

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NNeed torque specs for 2010 harley ultara classic, front axle nut, front brake calipers, axle nut holder


Front Axle = 60 to 65 foot pounds

Front caliper banjo bolts = 17 to 19 foot pounds

Front Brake disk screws = 16 to 29 foot pounds

Front caliper mounting bolts = 28 to 38 foot pounds

Front axle holder nuts = 132 to 180 inch pounds

Aug 23, 2014 | 2010 Harley Davidson FLHTCUTG Tri Glide...

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How do you change a 2002 Harley Road King stator?


Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary and remove the outer primay cover. Take the engine sprocket nut off, take the clutch adjuster out of the center of the clutch assembly and remove the mainshaft nut. This nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Take the engine sprocket, clutch assembly, and primary chain off all together. Then, pull the rotor off the engine sprocket. It can be difficult to get off due to the strong magnets in it. Once off, there are four small bolts holding the stator on and two small screws holding the plug into the case. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. Torque the small Torx bolts that hold the stator on to 40 inch pounds. The engine sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds with one line of Loctite 271 heavy hold thread locker in it. The LEFT HANDED threaded mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds with a single line of Loctite in it. You'll need a primary locking bar to keep the engine from turning while applying torque to the engine sprocket nut and the mainshaft nut.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 15, 2011 | Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King Classic...

1 Answer

How to install stator


To install a stator on your Softail, you'll have to remove the outer primary, the engine drive sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly. Then, you can get to the four screws that holds the stator. The job is not that difficult if you've got a few tools and a bit of mechanical skills. The engine sprocket is quite tight and you'll probably need an air wrench or a "locking bar" to keep the engine from turning while you torque the engine nut holding the sprocket. The engine sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds and the clutch nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Some click type torque wrenches will not work in the left handed direction. The clutch nut is behind the adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly. Just take the snap ring out and you'll see it.

I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to remove the magnetic rotor. Stick the bolts just slightly in the two holes and squeeze them together so that they bind. Then pull the rotor off. Take the four torqs, out of the stator and the two screws out of the plastic plug retainer. Work the plug out of the case and lift the stator off the sprocket shaft. Install the new stator by coating the new plug with black RTV. Put the stator over the sprocket shaft and then work the plug into the hole in the engine case. Put the stator in place and put the NEW bolts that came with it in place and start them. Put the plastic plug retainer in and then torque the stator bolts to 40 inch pounds.

Mar 11, 2011 | 2005 Harley Davidson FXST - FXSTI Softail...

1 Answer

1992 fxrs. just split my Final drive belt, can I fix it at home? ok/good mech. knowledge but will I have problems with clutch etc. Any "traps" or handy tips would be good.


yes, you can replace the belt yourself but it's quite a job. You must pull the primary, the engine sprocket and clutch assembly, the starter, the inner primary, the rear wheel, and the swing arm. You'll need an air wrench to remove the engine sprocket nut and the clutch nut unless you have a "locking bar" or something to wedge into the primary chain to lock the primary up so you can retorque the engine and clutch nuts properly. The engine nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and torques to 60-80 foot pounds. Put one line of Loctite Red #271 in each nut. As long as you don't have to pull the transmission belt pulley off, this is all you need. Most of the time, you can work the belt onto the pulley. If you can't, you'll need the special socket to loosen and tighten the large nut on the pulley and a "locking device" for it as well. The nut on the front pulley torques to at least 150 foot pounds as well and is LEFT HANDED threads as well.

Good Luck
Steve

Mar 05, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide...

1 Answer

How to replace a water pump


Disconnect the battery cables.
Place a drain pan underneath the radiator. When the engine is cool, drain the cooling system from the radiator into the pan.
Remove the right inner splash shield and the accessory drive belts. Support the engine underneath and remove the right motor mount with the bracket.
Take off the front cover and remove the timing belt along with the timing belt idler pulley. Also remove the camshaft sprockets, the rear cover to the timing belt and the alternator with its bracket.
Loosen and remove the bolts to the water pump and remove it from the engine. Install the new water pump after inserting a new o-ring gasket. Tighten the bolts to 105-inch lbs.
Make sure that the pump can move freely by rotating it by hand.
Replace all components in reverse order. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts to 75 foot pounds and the timing belt idler pulley to 45 foot pounds.
Refill the cooling system with coolant and reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks when it reaches normal operating temperatures

Mar 04, 2011 | 1999 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

How to replacing the water pump


  • Disconnect the negative battery cable.

  • Place a drain pan underneath the radiator. When the engine is cool, drain the cooling system from the radiator into the pan.
  • Remove the right inner splash shield and the accessory drive belts. Support the engine underneath and remove the right motor mount with the bracket.
  • Take off the front cover and remove the timing belt along with the timing belt idler pulley. Also remove the camshaft sprockets, the rear cover to the timing belt and the alternator with its bracket.
  • Loosen and remove the bolts to the water pump and remove it from the engine.
  • Install the new water pump after inserting a new o-ring gasket. Tighten the bolts to 105-inch lbs. Make sure that the pump can move freely by rotating it by hand.
  • Replace all components in reverse order. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts to 75 foot pounds and the timing belt idler pulley to 45 foot pounds.
  • Refill the cooling system with coolant and reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks when it reaches normal operating temperatures
  • Oct 14, 2010 | 1998 Plymouth Voyager

    1 Answer

    How do I pull the front Sprocket inside the primary cover to change the stator


    The compensator has a large nut on it and it's very tight. But, I get them off with an air impact wrench. You also have to remove the clutch assembly and primary chain. To remove the cluch assy, remove the clutch rod adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly by removing the snap ring. Inside the clutch is the mainshaft shaft nut. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS ON IT. Take it off and the remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster off and lift the front sprocket, the clutch, and the chain off all together.

    The rotor should come right off but you'll have to put two bolts in the holes on the rotor and squeeze them together to get a grip on the rotor to pull it off. The magnitism force is quite strong.

    When replacing the clutch and compensator, the mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds. You'll need something to lock the primary chain while you torque the nuts or the engine will turn before you get them torqued.

    Good Luck
    Steve

    Aug 06, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

    1 Answer

    I am looking for a step by step How - to for removing my water pump and replacing it with a new one



    How to Replace the Water Pump in a Pontiac Grand Am The water pump is the heart of the Pontiac grand am's cooling system, circulating the coolant. A faulty water pump can cause some serious damage to the engine of your Pontiac Grand Am. To prolong the life of your vehicle's engine, make sure to change out a bad water pump.
    2.2L Grand Am Engine Disconnect the negative battery cables before you begin.Place a drain pan underneath the radiator. When the engine is cool, drain the cooling system from the radiator into the pan.Elevate the vehicle and remove the right front wheel, the splash shield, the water pump sprocket access plate and remove the exhaust manifold if your vehicle has an n automatic trans-axle.Use the water pump sprocket holding tool (Tool Part Number J 43651) and attach it to the sprocket with access plate bolts, securing the tool to the front cover of the engine.Remove the following bolts to remove the water pump: the three bolts attaching the pump to the engine block, the bolt to the engine front cover, the bolts to the sprocket and the bolt attaching the thermostat housing to the pump.Remove the old pump and install the new one, aligning the water pump sprocket to the hub with a threaded stud.Reinsert the engine cover bolt to the block to the pump, tightening the bolt to 15 foot pounds (20 Nm). Tighten two of the water pump sprocket bolts to the water pump by hand.Take out the threaded stud that was used to align the water pump sprocket to the hub and attach the last bolt to the sprocket to the pump, tightening all three to 89 foot pounds (10 Nm).Remove the water pump sprocket holding tool and attach the timing cover to the water pump sprocket access plate, tightening the bolts to 89 foot pounds (10 Nm).Reattach the splash shield, the right front wheel and the exhaust manifold if applicable.Refill the engine's cooling system with coolant and reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the car and check for leaks when the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
    2.4L Grand Am Engine Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain out the coolant from the cooling system when the engine is cool.Disconnect the electrical connector to the oxygen sensor and remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.Remove the following bolts and studs: the coolant inlet housing bolt connecting the exhaust manifold, the bolt to the exhaust manifold to the brace, the studs to the manifold to exhaust pipe and the bolt to the coolant inlet housing to water pump.Disconnect the following parts from each other: the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe by pulling the pipe downward, the oil pan from the coolant inlet pipe, the camshaft housing from the brake vacuum pipe, the cylinder head from the exhaust manifold, the heater outlet pipe from the heater hose and the timing chain cover from the tensioner.Loosen and remove the water pump bolts to the engine and the bolts from the pump to the timing chain. Remove the water pump with the cover assembly and remove the cover from the pump.Install the new pump with new gaskets. Replace the cover and tighten the bolts by hand. Attach the pump to the engine and tighten these bolts by hand.Attach the pump to the timing chain housing nuts and the coolant inlet pipe to the cover. Also tighten these by hand.Torque all bolts to the following specifications after all bolts have been inserted and hand tightened: the chain housing nuts to the pump assembly to 19 foot pounds (26 Nm), the water pump assembly to the cover to 124 foot pounds (14 Nm), and the water pump cover to the coolant inlet pipe assembly to 124 foot pounds (14 Nm).Reattach the cylinder head and the exhaust manifold, tightening the nuts to 11 foot pounds (15 Nm), the coolant inlet pipe to the oil pan, tightening the nuts to 19 foot pounds (25 Nm), and reattach the timing chain tensioner, tightening the bolts to 89 foot pounds (10 Nm).Reconnect the camshaft housing and the brake vacuum pipe and reattach the front cover, tightening the bolts to 106 foot pounds (12 Nm).Reattach the exhaust pipe and the manifold, tightening the bolts to 26 foot pounds (35 Nm), the exhaust manifold to the brace, tightening the bolts to 41 foot pounds (56 Nm) and the nuts to 19 foot pounds (26 Nm), the manifold to the exhaust pipe, tightening the nuts to 26 foot pounds (35 Nm), the heater pipe to the heater hose and reattach the exhaust manifold heat shield, tightening the bolts to 124 inch pounds (14 Nm).Reconnect the electrical connector to the oxygen sensor and the negative battery cable. Refill the engine's cooling system with coolant and start the car. Check for leaks when the engine reaches normal operating temperature. 3.1L and 3.4L Grand Am Engines Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain out the coolant from the cooling system when the engine is cool.Remove the accessory drive belt and the water pump pulley.Loosen and remove the water pump bolts and remove the pump from the engine.Install the new water pump, tightening the bolts to 89 inch pounds (10 Nm).Reattach the water pump pulley, tightening the bolts to 18 foot pounds (25 Nm).Reinstall the accessory drive belt and reconnect the negative battery cableRefill the engine's cooling system with coolant. Start the car and check for leaks when the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

    Mar 15, 2010 | Pontiac Grand Am Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    Tork specs for clutch 71 sportster XL


    The clutch hub nut, the large nut holding the inner and outer clutch hubs on, torques to 110-150 foot pounds. The mainshaft nut that holds the front final drive chain sprocket on torques to 35-65 foot pounds. Engine sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds. Use two lines of Loctite 271 (high strength, red) on the sprocket shaft. The six small 1/4" nuts that go on the outside of the clutch have no torque specs. The manual says to "tighten nuts until releasing disc bottoms on spacers". Torque them like you would any other 1/4" nut, about 10-14 foot pounds. They should be nylock or self locking type nuts. If not, you can use a drop of Loctite 242 (medium strength,blue) on each threaded stud.

    Dec 12, 2009 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLS 1000

    1 Answer

    Need the torque specs on clutch for a 85 FLHTC


    The torque specs are the same as with any Evolution engine. The compensator sprocket 150-165 foot pounds.
    Clutch hub nut (left handed threads) 60-80 foot pounds.

    Use Loctite 271 on threads. Two lines in nut on Compensator and one line in clutch hub nut.

    Jul 27, 2009 | Harley Davidson FLHTC - FLHTCI Electra...

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