Question about Honda VTX 1300 R Motorcycles

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Sputtering 2008 VTX 1300 R Whether choked or not, sputters when starting up (regardless of temp), runs fine after 2-3 miles. If I stop on a ride to take a break, and fire it back up after 10-15 min, sputters and dies, then runs fine after a minute or so. I have Cobra slash cuts and a K&N filter (just filter, no ''kits''). Bike ran fine all the way from last June to this past February (when I had to use a bit more choke in the morning). Have read in forums that an A/F screw adjustment is needed, but I am new to this. In the forums, they speak of ''screw'' and I am also wondering since it is a ''twin carb'', are there 2 screws? How close are the recommended settings of ''2 1/2 turns'' given my setup? Have not pulled the plugs yet as i am just beginning to research this. If they are ''fouled'', what is a good cleaning method? Or should I just replace them? If replacing, should I go stock, or is there a better brand or type? Any recommended gap change? If environment makes a difference, I live in Florida and weather is generally mild year round. If you have any pictures showing locations of the screw(s) I would appreciate it. If anyone out there has been through this and can provide a bit of info, thank you for your help.

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  • TheShadow750 May 11, 2010

    When you installed your pipes and your filter, did you have the carbs re-jetted on a dyno?



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Hey, that k&n might flow a different amount of air than your stock filter and that is the main reason people say tune the carb. the most reliable way is on a dyno and then read your new plugs after your oil change. i was able to find this posted by Scar at that wouldnt fit in this post so go here: you will find a lot of info there and it seems to me like he knows exactly what he is doing as far as finding out what works and what not. I would sugest you blow out the old paper air filter with compressed air in the opposite direction that the air usually flows through it, or grab a new one and use that to try and get the A/F ratio in a more acceptable configuration or see if it helps at least. That K&N has oil that may or may not be the best stuff to put into the intake. I try not to use them even though they get more power. Maybe from leaning the mixture out a lil bit...They may flow more air but do they flow more fuel is the question. As far as your spark plugs go id put something close to stock ie,type -copper, platinum, or irridium and whatever gap and spacers if any that stock plugs use. Ignition systems are designed to work with their respective plugs....vice versa. Changing type will likely cause problems in that area. unless you upgraded ignition system. OEM replacement NGK plugs and wires should work well. There should be a screw on each carburator, makes sense to me. What i got from reading around is pull the jet 2 1/2 turns back after you lightly put it all the way in, dont put any pressure, as in dont tighten it like a bolt. Just get it all the way in there. Not sure if thats the stock setup or write down how many turns each one screw in when you pull it apart,so you could put the stock pipes and stuff if all else fails.

Ive looked behind a K&N I was using in my convertible FC3S connected to the air flow meter and didnt like what I saw...maybe I used to much oil...wanted to use enough.....any ways red stuff (oil)was all over the place in there and something was telling me that it was gonna be bad for the poor thing:turbo housings, thermal coating on rotors, series 4 lower intake, series 5 upper (variable dynamic chamber) intake and fuel rail, injectors flow tested and cleaned, Racing Beat header, Magnaflow 2 1/4 in after-straight-cat single exhaust system (driver side)=), NGK plugs and wires. no emissions exept cat. manual steering rack, A/C removed along with everything else. New fuel pump and all new racing mounts for oil cooler, motor, diff, tranny, ect..ect..oh and a ACT stage 3 clutch. Tokico struts. Hawk racing pads up front. BBS that was a lot of fun smokin civics and Integras. I used mobile 1 2-stroke in fuel. So spark plug cleaning was regular. Your bike would be happier with you if you put the new ones in it. and have it dyno tuned. after you get it running properly or keep from buying multiple gasket kits. Tinkering aroung to see what works before hand is a good idea if you think you can put it back together consider tuning it for long term reliability rather than other purposes.....
I could write another entire page on "tuning techniques", but it has already been done in what I consider a comprehensive and accurate manner... use it as your tuning Bible -- Factory Pro

Posted on May 23, 2009


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My 2007 VTX 1300 Retro started sputtering, lost acceleration, top speed dropped to 70? Bike has 8200 miles. When I bought it about 2 months ago it had around 7300. Had been setting up. Ran good but...

Hi Jim, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose/broken connections at battery terminals/cables, especially the "NEGATIVE" cable at both ends, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intake air leak.
8. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor.
12. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and/or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
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For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
2003 Honda Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

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I have a vtx 1300. it sat for 2months during

hi,sounds like you have a blocked main jet in one of the carbs,when the fuel sits in the bowls it will evaporate and leave behind a residue that is quite difficult to remove even with a carb cleaning compound,what i do in this case is remove the carbs,remove all the jets,place all the jets in a saucer or dish and fill with petrol,leave them for a few days,this will soften the residue,then use compressed air or a crc typecan with carb cleaner and force clean them by squirting the fluid through them,do not use(as some people do) a piece of wire to clean through them,this will scratch the inside of the jet and alter the fuel flow charicteristics of the jet and render it all but useless,once you have them all absolutely spotless,reassemble and put the carbs back in,just about put money on it that your problem will dissappear,hope this helps...cheers

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