Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail Classic

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Charging system problem

Just purchased a 00 heritage with only 92 miles on it. wasnt charging. tested and replaced the regulator rectifier. was good for a few rides, maybe 200 miles. now not charging again. if its the regulator again does anyone know what might cause repeated failures of this part? thanks

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Using a multi meter choose continuity on the dial. (Also make sure it is set to beep when showing continuity fault for easy diagnosis)
Remove the regulator rectifier connector plug located at the front of the primary cover.
Insert the positive multi meter test probe into either of the female stator pins and put the negative multi meter probe to ground. If the multi meter beeps when the positive lead is inserted into either of the stator pins then your stator has shorted to ground through its failed stator windings, if the continuity test shows no shorts to ground then the connection pins may be the problem!!

If the male pins on the reg rectifier are a darkened and glassy or glazed this indicates a connection failure between the male reg rectifier pins and the female stator pins causing heat build up and eventually causes your pins to slowly lose their connection which in turn causes the reg to over work n slowly fail.

If this is the case when a new reg rectifier is fitted pry open the male connector pins slightly for a stronger connection also ensuring you lube up the connector pins with electrical contact grease. Thus giving you longer running life of your reg rectifier. In the case where you don't want want it to fail again due to poor connection or old age remove the primary case cut the plugs off of the reg rectifier and stator run same gauge two core wire and hard wire the rectifier to the stator using the old stator connector grommet on the primary case cover to run your wires through. Ensure you use heat shrink over the soldered sections of each wire instead of electrical tape to prevent any possible chance of failure. This rookie mistake can be made by the best of technicians. Hope this helps

Posted on Jul 03, 2014

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Mattica,

it is very important to check and verify the AC voltage from the stator output. I don't know what your specific spec is off-hand. you can do this with a multi-meter at the ouput plug from the stator where it connects to the voltage regulator. A BAD stator will ruin a new voltage regulator until it is replaced. I just went through the same exact thing.

Posted on May 18, 2009

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Sounds like the stator may be grounded

Posted on May 15, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Voltage regulator/rectifier not grounded.
2. Engine ground wire loose or broken.
3. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier module.
4. Loose or broken wires in charging circuit.
5. Faulty stator and/or rotor.
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The battery will not stay charged and the regulator rectifier get hot after running the bike for a short period of time. bike runs but not well when you disconnect the negative battery cable


sounds like the regulator/rectifier has failed. you need to check that you are getting 13.5 14.8 volts at the battery when bike is running, higher means failed unit and under means same. you need a diode tester to measure reg/rectifier and will also need to check stator output with multi meter on AC, should get 60-100 volts when bike revved with stator wire unplugged from regulator.
best solution is to take to your local shop and get them to perform these and other tests to confirm as electrical parts are generally not returnable once purchased as very easy to damage if put into a bike with other charging system faults

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MTD yard Machine lawnmower,17hp Briggs And Stratton engine. Runs for about 15 or 20 minutes and stalls. It will not start again until I recharge the battery over night. Then only runs again for 15 or 20...


yes it could be

check your battery 1st , then check the stator a/c output

• 10 or 16 Amps DC regulated for charging
battery
• Two black leads (C) from stator
• Yellow connector (D) with two pin
terminals
• Two yellow leads (E) to regulator-rectifier
(F)
• One red lead (B) from regulator-rectifier
to red connector output lead (A)
• 10 and 16 Amp systems use the same
stator, color coding and regulator-rectifier
• Alternator output is determined by the
flywheel alternator magnet size


The stator and regulator-rectifier are the same
for the 10 and 16 Amp systems. The system
output is determined by the flywheel magnet
size.
Test Alternator Output
1. Temporarily disconnect stator wire
harness from the regulator-rectifier.
2. Insert RED test lead (A, Figure 28) into the
V ω receptacle in the meter.
3. Insert BLACK test lead (B) into COM
receptacle.
4. Rotate selector to AC Volts position.
5. Insert RED (A) and BLACK (B) test lead
probes into output terminals (D & E) in
YELLOW connector (C). (Test clip leads
may be attached to either terminal).
6. With the engine running at 3600 rpm, the
output should be no less than:
• 20 volts - 10 Amp System
• 30 volts - 16 Amp System
7. If No or Low output is found, check for
bare wires or other defects. If wiring
defects are not found, replace the stator.
voltage depending on alternator type and magnet size

then check the regulator / rectifier , make sure it is grounded properly

make sure battery earth lead is good

i suspect loss of bat voltage is letting the afterfire solenoid close off the main jet

let me know model and type codes off engine & i will try help further

cheers

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2 Answers

Good evening sir, I have yamaha R1 bike. in bike yesterday battery discharge than charge the battery. today bike start and running but after .5 miles bike is stop running, self is not running and battery...


1998 to 2002 have problem with plug to voltage regulator/rectifier which is under seat. connectors in plug overheat and bike stops charging the battery. you will see if connectors have been hot and will need to be replaced if they have.
once replaced check bike charging with multimeter at battery,should make 13.5 - to 14.5 volts just above idle. if not will need to test stator and regulator.

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1 Answer

2000 heritage softail....new battery losing charge as i ride....then wont turn over after shutting down...even 1-2 mile of riding ???


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for drop in aprerage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v while cranking replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor.
17. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck.Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

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2 Answers

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hi this might help,normally if the alternator/generater fails you will get no charge voltage at all,if your bike is fitted with an alternator(most later honda models are)then you will have a rectifier and regulator,the rectifier converts the ac voltage from the alternator to dc voltage which is then fed through the regulator and then onto the battery,if the bike is fitted with a generator then you will still have a regulator but no rectifier,a generator develops dc voltage at its source so a rectifier is not needed,a simple way to test the system is with a simple digital volt meter,these are very cheap and reliable and can be got for around 20 bucks,with the engine running at about 1500 -2000rpm test the voltage across the battery with the meter normall voltage at charge should be between 13.8 and 14.8 volts,if you are getting more that this then the regulator is faulty,another way to test the regulator is to slowly lift the engine rpm from idle through to about 3 or 4000rpm the voltage across the battery should not rise any higher than about 14.2-14.8 and it should reach its peak at about 2-2500rpm and not fluctuate more than about 1 volt across the rev range,if the voltage exceeds about 14.8 or fluctuates excessively with engine revs then the regulator needs to be replaced.hope this helps...cheers ian

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1 Answer

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2000 harley heritage classic electical problem


sounds like no voltage from the charging system. check for poor connections especially ground check output from alternator and check regulator thats all there is to it

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