I had the stator replaced in my yahmaha last year. i have taken my bike in twice since then cause my signal lites wouldnt work. now when i am driving my head lites go bright and dim. can this be due to a faulty stator. also i have had to replace my battery twice in the past year.

EVO Softail models are hard on batteries because of the vibration from solid mount engines. A lifetime of more than 3 years is remarkable. Aftermarket batteries for HD's are not a good value since they fail even earlier. The HD batteries are designed and built for the rigors of life in a Harley. Any auto parts store will test a battery for free.



Stock Harley charging systems don't last more than 10 years or 50,000 miles. If the charging system doesn't pass testing, then all 3 components (regulator, stator, rotor) should be replaced at the same time. A weak stator will burn up a regulator, a weak rotor won't build a strong output field, a weak regulator will burn up the stator. It sounds like an unnecessary expense, but it costs less to replace them all at once than 3 visits to a shop to get the problem fixed. This is what I recommended to my customers when I had a shop.

ck. fuel cap vent and fuel pump.

Yes' I almost bought one last year that was street legal complete with turn signals tail light and headlight all running off the battery. The stock stator kept up with it all just fine. The only reason I didn't get the bike was because a Husqvarna SM 450 R was available.

Have the battery checked. may not be holding a charge and is discharging during use. all seems to point to poor batt status

because the bike is so new i wouldnt suspect the stator i would invest in a battery, a good battery is crucial for bikes. once you get a good battery in it check the voltage at the terminals when the bike is running(you should see around 13 to 14 volts). you can have the battery load tested at a batteries plus or an auto part store so you dont waste your money, but once you kill a bike battery there pretty much junk. the stators in motorcycles barely put out enough power to run the bike and pretty much trickle charge the battery. they rely on the battery to pick up the slack. get a battery from walmart there cheap and ive had one in my bike for two years and its fine, stay away from the over priced ones they dont do anything but slim down your wallet.

i wouldnt ride a bike with the brake lite on - get it taken care of

sounds if regulator is not working or poor connections within charging circuit

I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

First thing to do is charge the battery and do a load test on it. Use a charger rated for motorcycle batterys not a battery tender. Once the battery is charged and tested, you need to test the stator. On the right front down tube at the bottom you will find the plug that goes from the stator to the voltage regulator. I forget the values that you are looking for but with a multi meter and the bike running take a reading at the plug the voltage should climb when you rev the engine. If you do not get any reading or if the voltage dosen't climb you have a bad stator. If the battery and stator are good it will be your voltage regulator.