After I take my bike off it's stand the stand doesn't return without a lot of effort - is there somewhere I should lubricate or have I lost a spring or something - The full stand not the side stand... Cheers,
1) Center stand is bent. Inspect both legs carefully. In most cases, the left leg is more susceptible than the right.
2) Bushings are worn out. Your center stand pivots up and down on either one long bolt through the frame or two smaller ones (one from each side). These bolt(s) pass through bushings of a softer metal (typically brass). Bushings are designed to wear out with use. When this occurs, the bolt passing through it can bind.
3) Pivot bolt(s) are overtightened. Rare, but, anything is possible.
In any case, I'd recommend placing your bike up on a couple of automotive jack stands. You're gonna need a helper for this. Put them under your frame, one on each side. Keep the bike high enough to lower your center stand without it touching the ground. In this position you can:
-sight the stand (while down) from the rear and check for bends.
-remove the return spring and test the stands movement
-crack loose the pivot bolt(s) and check movement
-remove the pivot bolt(s) and inspect the bushings
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: Bike stand doesn't return
Yes , it may require some light lubricating at around the stand but first you will need to clean up throughly around the stand fittings better to use WD40 and thn some mineral oil as lubricant.
Not bad too to check the spring of its tension!
Hope this helps!
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If there is no main stand on your motorbike it can be a problem sometimes, not only do side stands dig into soft ground & warm tarmac they also make it awkward to oil the drive chain !
A simple way around this is to get either :- A piece of strong piece of wood about an inch square ( or in diameter) or A strong hammer or mallet or A small trolley jack handle or similar preferably with rubber or taped ends
Whatever you use it must be about an inch (or more) longer than from the ground to the right hand end of the rear spindle (axle) or underside of the right hand swinging arm, WHILE THE BIKE LEANS on its side stand: For the very few bikes that have a side stand on the right, read left hand end of rear spindle
All you have to do is raise the rear wheel slightly by pivoting the weight of the bike on its front wheel & side stand
On medium to large bikes this means getting someone else to position themself on the side stand side of the bike, where they should put 1 foot against the side stand & reach over the bike to grab a good purchase point near the rear wheel, grab the nearest handlebar end with the other hand & pivot the bike forwards on its front wheel & side stand This will lift the rear wheel a few inches so that your prop can be placed upright between the ground & your selected point on the bike
Spin the rear wheel by hand whilst applying non fling chain lubrication to both edges of your bikes chain
SIMPLE EFFECTIVE NO NEED TO CARRY A PADDOCK STAND IN YOUR RUCKSACK
Ride safe Bike-Doc
I hope this helps (if so give good feedback please)
have tried lubricating the throttle cable and twist grip mecanism , is the cable routed correctly and no kinks in it ? where the carb fits to the engine check the rubber mount has no cracks or holes as it will draw more air than needed !
You want a solution, but this is all the information you can supply?
Did you just buy this bike?
If it's one of my old bikes, you will have a lot of trouble finding neutral as I modify the shift spool detents to make neutral extremely hard to find. This mod is done for racing. BUT - I don't race Suzukis, so this is not my old bike. It is possible that someone else has removed neutral from the shifting spool detents though - it used to be a pretty common modification for racers.
Without having more history, I don't want to waste any time speculating on any other solution. I would like to know if this is a new bike to you or at least a little more info on the problem and some history of the bike. Put in a little effort.
Might be a faulty side stand lockout switch. They're subject to a lot of wear, tear and grime and tend to wear out. So your bike thinks the side stand is down when it isn't locking your bike out so it won't start. Failing that it may be a faulty neutral switch, again the bike doesn't know it is in neutral so doesn't start. I am going to state the obvious also, is your main kill switch turned on?
1. The 2nd gear lockout is, a mechanical speed sensing mechanism. It doesn't care if the engine is running. You bypass it by scooting the bike forward, about 5-6 mph, while shifting the transmission into 2nd gear. 2
Stand on the left side of the bike, with the ignition "ON" and the transmission in neutral. 3 With your right foot on the ground, behind your left foot: place your left foot on the left foot peg, with your toe under the shifter; squeeze in the clutch. *4.Scoot the bike forward about 5-6 mph, with your right foot, and shift the transmission into 2nd gear, with your left foot. If you accidentally go into 3rd, or some higher gear, you can easily shift back down into 2nd, without further movement of the bike. 5.To start the bike: Apply the choke if the engine is cold. Squeeze in the clutch and push the bike forward, both feet on the ground, about 8-12 mph. Release the clutch until the engine start 6 As soon as the engine starts: squeeze in the clutch and shift the bike into neutral.
This would depend on what is causing the Squeeking. I would suggest taking the bike into your local bike shop and have the take a look (its free) and they can then give you the proper recommendation on where and how to lubricate the bike, and they will sell you the proper lubrication to boot. Almost all shops are more than happy to show you the best way to maintain and lubricate your bike for long life, maximum enjoyment and quite.
well its a 13 year old bike pall, its got were in the gear box and the cluch may need to be took up a bit too,,, how many other pople have had this bike???
how did they ride it??? flat out in every gear?
slaming them in as they go??? you know the type!
look how fast i am,, look how quick i am?.....
look how dead he is,,,,,," now!!!!"
i think this is just normal were and tear on the bike