With the motor off, Remove the air filter, unhook the air filter housing from the air tunnel. Inside the air filter housing is a maf or map sensor, Use an aerosol can of tech spray for electronics(I use carbutator cleaner, personal preference) and spray the sensor real good, to clean it, and let dry completely. Next, inside the air tunnel is an IAT sensor, spray it as well, and let it dry completely, Next, (if yours is the same as mine) on the back of the intake, Very close to the firewall, is an IAC sensor, (it has a solenoid attached to it), unplug it and remove it withe a 7mm wrench. It will look like a aluminum block with a small plunger through the middle of it to the solenoid , spray it also( outside the vehicle) and let dry. After all is dry, put back together. Before you start your motor! Unhook both battery cables from the battery, Hold them together for30 seconds.without touching the battery. Then put it back together. For the first 10 miles or so, the ECU will relearn. Give this a try, I do it every 40,000 miles on mine. Hope it helps!
The symptom of which you are describing is known as "hunting"
for idle.
You need an idle air bypass solenoid, otherwise known as an IAC. The part mounts right on the throttle body. Sometimes they can be cleaned, but for around fifty dollars, I would suggest a new one.
SOURCE: truck runs rough
Sounds like one of your chambers isn't firing. Run your car for a few minutes, shut it off then pull your plugs one at a time and see if one of them is wet. Might just need a new plug.
SOURCE: 2000 Ford Explorerer rough idle When cold
what codes are present? If it is lean codes P0171/P0174 problem is most likely the orings leaking between upper and lower intake manifold if this is a 4.0L
SOURCE: low rpm's in idle when heating/cooling system is on & surges.
Check your EGR or your Idle control Valve. This can cause a problem with your irratic idling
SOURCE: 1997 f150 truck starts but doesnt stay running, only if you
sounds like either fuel pump weak or fuel filter plugged
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