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bottom of forks turn all the way in, then back out 12 clicks
top of fork - trail riding = all the way out then turn in 2 clicks, track riding = turn in 8 clicks
Rear spring needs to be adjusted so the tip of the rear fender drops 2.75" when sitting on it.
The top adjustment (compression valve) will be close to all the way out for trail and 5 to 8 clicks turned in for track.
The bottom adjustment meters how slow or fast the shock extends (rebound). Stand on something at peg height with one foot on the peg and the other on your stand and shove the bike down. Adjust the bottom (rebound) clicker to match the front of the bike so that both return to top at the same time.
This is a good starting point for any bike.
To fine tune your suspension it is always best to have a suspension tech watch you ride and make adjustments until the chassis of the bike stays flat while the suspension does its work. Usually take a tech 20 minutes to set the front and rear compression and rebound track-side!
Hello and thanks for the question,
Your 1982 GL1100 has air assist type of suspension. It has springs in the front as well as the air pressure. This is a heavy bike and the front forks are marginal at best. I have had great results from installing progressive suspension springs and moving up to a heavier fork oil (20wt ) to keep the bike from diving so far during braking.
You should look at having the forks rebuilt with these parts and you will find that the bike handles much better than before.
The springs that are in the bike are old now and should be updated with new style parts.
If this bike has more than 15k on it the stock springs are likely worn out. Replace them with Progressive Suspension springs. They will last longer and the bike will rider better. They are also less expensive than stock replacements.
Rear suspension settings are adjusted via the suspension mechanism located under the bike near the main rear suspension spring on the underneath of bike parallel with the seat- looks like a can (like a slim beer can) and there is a screw one way to tighten and one way to loosen. Dont know settings but try it out one way then the other. Simple turn the screw according to direction arrows.
The front forks aren't adjustable, as you probably figured out. You can, however, get harder springs if the springs can be accessed at the top of the fork tube. If not, do what I did on my mountain bike. I bought a better pair of adjustable forks that I found on eBay. It will take a bit of investigation on your part regarding the dimensions of the forks, so you get the correct length and width where the forks fit onto the frame (and the overall desired fork length), but you'll be a lot happier with adjustables.
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