Key switch on, push ignition button & nothing happens
Head light is off, turn signals are on but dim. new battery, solid terminal connections. tested starter relay since there wasn't a click when pushing starter button, tested good. i tested the batteries, tested good. had the bike in the shop, they cleaned the carbs, & did a sloppy job of putting the bike back together. i had to reroute the wiring, choke cable, return radiator tube.
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Would suspect the new battery or battery connections. If the terminals have not been cleaned before installing the new battery it is possible that an oxide layer has built up during the extended storage without a battery installed.
Turn dome lights on manually and observe when you attempt to crank the car. If they dim test the crank voltage with a multi meter on the terminals of the battery. Leaving the car with out a battery would not have a lasting problem. Removing the battery for about an hour would have the same effect as thirty days.. With an interruption of the 12 volt supply the EMC (engine control module) will lose the running parameters that were learned. The factory defaults will be installed. This can create an idle and shift problem for the first few miles of operation.
If by lights, you mean the dash lights come on, then ignition switch must be getting power. If dash is not working with key on, check the 30 amp fuse link which powers the ignition switch. If switch is good and starter is good, the start wire from switch goes to, if automatic, to inhibitor relay (the park/neutral function) and then to starter. There is also an inhibitor switch on the shifter or on the transaxle that turns on the inhibitor relay when key is on and shifter in park or neutral. The inhibitor switch is powered by a 10 amp fuse D. If you have a manual transmission, the start wire from ignition switch goes to the clutch interlock relay and then to the starter. This relay is turned on by the clutch interlock switch on the clutch pedal. You can check for power on either relay, the inhibitor relay or the clutch interlock relay, with a test light. Pull the relay out, have the key held in start position. Now both relays would have power showing on two terminals where the relay plugs in. If inhibitor relay only has power on one terminal or no power at all, either ignition switch is not sending power or fuse D is out or the inhibitor switch is not working right. If clutch interlock switch does not have power on two terminals either the ignition switch is not sending power or the clutch interlock switch is bad. If the relay checks are good, check for power on the small wire to starter with key held in start. If you have power there, the starter solenoid must be out.
if you can arc and get it to work
what are the battery terminals like... clean and tight
check continuity for the earth chassis to battery neg - terminal wire
also the wire voltage to the starter from pos battery
if that checks out
bench test starter
solenoid not kicking out properly or problem with lazy starter motor
First thing to do is look at the dash lights when you put the switch in START position. If they blink or dim, you may have a faulty battery or poor connectivity. Next try jumping the starter. You'll find a starter jumper at almost any auto parts. If you get no result then the problem is with the starter, If the starter turns then the problem is in the starting circuit from the switch to the starter relay.
Yes instrument lights at least should come on. Power goes from the battery to the ignition switch via the main fuse, & then splits to ignition & lights (via auxiliary fuses if present) which are separate circuits. The problem could be an auxiliary fuse (if fitted) then contacts inside the ignition switch or wiring/connections from the ignition switch out to the ignition circuit That is presuming the cluster light bulbs work!
Hope this helps ( if so please mark as very helpful) Ride Safe Bike-Doc