Question about 2004 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI Heritage Softail Classic

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Bolt size for rear seat into rear fender - 2004 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI Heritage Softail Classic

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Harley Davidson Master
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Hi Anonymopus, 1/4-20x1/2" chrome phillips round head. Have nice day

Posted on May 18, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: I need to replace the bolt on the fender that

its actually a bolt retainer it just so you don't lose the bolt. you can usually cut the washer off with side cutters or something if its solid, some are, then cut the bolt off your replacing it anyway right. hope this helps

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: How do I remove the

I assume you found the bolt under the fender in the rear of the seat. There shoud be one on each side screwing up into the seat as best as I can remember. Sometimes things that you think would easy to get to turn out not to be.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Aug 16, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: How do remove the seat? I've removed the bolt

If you have a sissy bar on the bike, you'll have to lift the rear of the seat a bit to get the clearance necessary for the seat to slide to the rear. If that doesn't work, take the sissy bar off by removing the two small bolts on either side of the sissy bar side plates. With the sissy bar off, the seat should come off easily.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Nov 28, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: What size nut would be inside the fender. The

I don't know about your 04 Sporty but the earlier models used a 5/16 X 18 nut on the backside. No special tools necessary if you remove the rear wheel.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Jun 05, 2011

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Hi Anonymous, seat removal can range from the simple and obvious to the complex and baffling for the novice new Harley Davidson owner. Seems like the more expensive the bike is the harder it is to remove the seat. So let's start with the most expensive. 99% of all Harley seats have a male tounge in the front that slides into a female reciever that is either bolted or welded to the frame just behind the fuel tank. For this reason when ever you are removing a seat you must always slide it backwards 3-5 inches. Next they may may have a bolt on each side usually under a flap on the seat. Then there is the seat strap that is secured on both sides, only one side needs to be removed. A single phillips head bolt can secure it to the rear fender or it may have a bracket with two studs secured by nuts or knobs to fasten the rear portion of the seat. On newer model short seats there may be a "T" stud that locks in the rear portion of the seat just a few inches in front of the rear seat bolt, you have to push forward and lift up after you remove the bolt. If you have a pillion pad or passenger seat that snugs up against the front seat there can be a bolt securing the two to the rear fender, you have to get your hand in between the two seats and force seperation of seat material to see and gain acess to the bolt. Finally there is the rear seat bolt in the back that is the caboose of seat fasteners, usually a large chrome bracket, that screws into the rear fender. Care must be exercised in covering this shinny bauble with your hand during the sliding back procedure so as to NOT scratch the tour pak. So when all the hidden and mysterious fasteners have been removed, it's lift up in the rear, slide backwards a few inches and bingo you have mastered the impossible. Good luck.

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Hi Sal1234u, seat removal can range from the simple and obvious to the complex and baffling for the novice new Harley Davidson owner. Seems like the more expensive the bike is the harder it is to remove the seat. So let's start with the most expensive. 99% of all Harley seats have a male tounge in the front that slides into a female reciever that is either bolted or welded to the frame just behind the fuel tank. For this reason when ever you are removing a seat you must always slide it backwards 3-5 inches. Next they may may have a bolt on each side usually under a flap on the seat. Then there is the seat strap that is secured on both sides, only one side needs to be removed. A single phillips head bolt can secure it to the rear fender or it may have a bracket with two studs secured by nuts or knobs to fasten the rear portion of the seat. On newer model short seats there may be a "T" stud that locks in the rear portion of the seat just a few inches in front of the rear seat bolt, you have to push forward and lift up after you remove the bolt. If you have a pillion pad or passenger seat that snugs up against the front seat there can be a bolt securing the two to the rear fender, you have to get your hand in between the two seats and force seperation of seat material to see and gain acess to the bolt. Finally there is the rear seat bolt in the back that is the caboose of seat fasteners, usually a large chrome bracket, that screws into the rear fender. Care must be exercised in covering this shinny bauble with your hand during the sliding back procedure so as to NOT scratch the tour pak. So when all the hidden and mysterious fasteners have been removed, it's lift up in the rear, slide backwards a few inches and bingo you have mastered the impossible. Good luck.

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I'm not positive about the later models but the earlier models worked this way. Remove the seat by removing the single bolt at the rear of the seat that screws into the rear fender. Lift the rear of the seat and pull to the rear. The seat should come out.

Now, look on the right side of the for two bolts between the battery and rear fender. These are "lock bolts" for the battery tray. Loosen them but don't take them out.

Look just inboard into the frame from the battery and you should see a bolt head. This is a "jack bolt". Turn the bolt counterclockwise and the battery tray lowers allowing you to get the battery top cover and surround.

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