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the clutch may be stuck on. Put the bike in neutral, start the bike, run down the road looking like a fool jumping on and off the bike to kick it into 2nd gear and pumping clutch lever. Clutch should be free.
It might also be worth checking if your pushrod has a ball bearing in the end, I had one on mine, replace the clutch plates and it wouldn't work with the ball bearing in :)
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Has the clutch cable been re-routed lately? If so, it may be stretched around something and causing the problem. Have you put synthetic or "Special" lubricants in the gearbox? They can cause the clutch to slip. New fiber friction plates would need to be installed. Readjust the cable adjuster at the handlebar. Turn it inward. Has the bike been ridden hard for several years? The friction plates may be just plain worn out. Below is a generic diagram. Not all bikes have an adjuster built into the cable. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
Jo - you need to explain what problems you are having!! The 1980 model had a cable operated mechanism. Vital that the clutch cable is smoothly routed with bends as big a radius as possible. Lubrication of clutch lever pivot and cable is vital too. Handlebar adjuster should be used to leave a small amount of slack. If the problem is getting the clutch to free off, then if the bike has been standing for a long time the plates can stick together. Have an answer for that...
The cable routing guides for new bikes was only to set up the handle bars.
From memory the throttle runs down the RHSof the frame and used to run through a guide mounted off the coil through bolt.
I think the clutch goes around the steering head and also goes down the RHS
I don't think I've ever seen a diagram of the routing of the clutch cable. The cable comes from the left handlebar to the frame. It runs down the left side of the frame, between the front engine mount on the frame and the engine. Along the lower frame tube on the right side of the bike and up to the bottom of the chrome clutch release housing on the right side of the transmission. I hope this helps. Good luck
undow the clutch lever screw the adjuster so that the cable will come out then follow the cable down to the engine undow thw nuts holding the cable remove the cable and refit the new onw in the same routing as the old one set the adjustment so there is about 1cm play at the lever
Chances are the new bars are a bit taller than the old bars. It sounds like the taller bars are making you stretch the clutch cable. No freeplay at all in the clutch lever, Right? If the clutch cable was not re-routed causing the stretch, the only thing you can do there is get shorter bars or get a longer cable from a similar bike or have a custom cable made at the shop. The blinkers is just an error in how the wiring was reconnected.
Disconnect the clutch cable at the case then see if the there is any resistance in the clutch lever in-out movement. When the tank was remounted the cable may have gotten pinched or moved out of proper routing. If I understand correctly, prior to the frame painting the clutch was okay, but after the paint it was not, and the left and right side cases and clutch were not touched. Obviously you used the wrong brand of paint. The clutch would have been fine if you had used Krylon brand paint. Post a comment and let me know what you find.