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All lights work but my rear running lights

Also no lights when ignition key is in 3rd potion

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Be more explicit.

Posted on Nov 25, 2013

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Need a wiring diagram on suzuki raiderj 110. Please. Tnx.


Maybe you can use these codes taken from:

http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/forums/showthread.php?120554-Motorcycle-Electrical-Wiring-Diagram-Thread

This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHTThis is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT
This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT

Dec 27, 2015 | 2006 Suzuki Stratosphere

1 Answer

Wiring diagram for a rigid frame with a shovelhead engine


i doubt that one exists for a assembled bobber. but dude all you need are 3 wires on ignition switch 1 from the batt. 1 to the coil 1 to the lights if you want to rewire your bike (kick start only) very simple..1st post on the ignition switch (key switch), 1 wire, from the battery to the ignition. on the second post (key switch), 1 wire from the top post on the coil, (note on the bottom post of the coil another wire goes to your points), on the top post of the coil add 1 wire to one side of the brake light switch, then another wire from the other side of the brake light switch to the brake light, 3rd post (key switch), 2 more wires, 1 to the head light, 1 to the tail light (if you want high beam run a extra off the 3rd post to the hi lo switch then 1 from the hi lo switch to the head lights high beam wire)
last 1 wire from the regulator back to the battery.
you have just rewired your bike. if you have a electric starter then just add another from the 2cnd post (key switch) to the starter button, then 1 from the starter button back to the solenoid.

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Oct 03, 2014 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

RKE remote key locks stopeed working


doors or engine IMMO lockouts. (cranks but stalls in 2 seconds is IMMO lock out) and the glowing IMMO lamp (mine has no logo)
My light is stealthy, no words no icon, so crooks are confused)
RTM read the manual it tells you where the light IS/!

IMMO
all fobs, there are 2 and loosing 1 in bad news. on jeeps
always have 3, keep 2 safe and run 3rd
mine has 8 key limit, (life) so , .....
I have 08 and i hate this, in fact im trying to get my 3rd working now.
this system is very very strict, like Toyota's but worse.....!@!!!

did you replace the coin cell in side the FOB like the operators guide tells you?

do not have 2 jeep keys on one ring
do not have other keys blocking the good key near the ignition switch
page 14, opr guide in glove box... lost it?
no Exxon mobile speed pass , near ignition, yah, gotta love this... not.
do not have other cars with this BS keys transponders near you real key, one key can RF jam another...
try just the key, only, if car stalls in 2 sec.
if only doors fail that is the security side failing but is linked to the
IMMO. is SKIS system.

and sorry check all fuses first.

if either system needs reset , i have that info. ask.

Jan 14, 2014 | 2009 Jeep Liberty

1 Answer

2003 Ford Escape XLT - Theft light flashed and car lost power for a few seconds. This happened 2 times on the 3rd time the car turned off completely while I was on the FWY. I pulled over and restarted...


Have the battery checked. Have your Ignition key checked or use a different key. The ignition switch could be worn out in the RUN position.

The anti-theft usually comes on when power is less than optimum or the identity of the key is corrupted.

Oct 11, 2013 | 2003 Ford Escape

1 Answer

Aztek won't start,key locked in ignition, service engine light on


It is the security chips in the keys. Has this car been wrecked? Was this car made in Mexico? GM had the bright Idea of creating a security system that would do exactly this, I know on cars made in Mexico (like the HHR) You can reset the power and get the key back out, but vehicle will have to be reprogrammed with the master key. This involves turning the key from off to run position without ever going past run (i.e. start position) leave key in this position for 30 minutes. Turn key back to off for 30 seconds then back to run for 30 minutes. repeat this step three times. the last time, after 3rd 30 minute period, turn key off for 30 seconds and then try to crank. Please note this only works if the original master key is being used. You can then reprogram the second key following a similar sequence, only master key that is working has to be inserted to let alarm system know that vehicle is not being stolen only that you are trying to reprogram a key. If original master key is not being used then vehicle has to be taken to the GM dealership to program keys and possible key module replacement.

May 30, 2009 | 2001 Pontiac Aztek

1 Answer

Shifting from 2nd to 3rd


On that trans is a 20 way connector. There is a red wire that should have 12 volts with the ignition switch on. Test it with a test light. With all these issues at one time you may have lost 1 leg on the ignition switch. Check your fuses in the dash and under hood with the ignition on. Be sure all the ones that should be hot are. Good Luck

May 26, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe

3 Answers

Key Does Not Work


It could be that chip inside key just went bad. Do u have a 3rd key? That works? If so take the 2 good keys and turn the igntion to run postion for 3 secs each then do the same for the 3rd key and this will reprogram it if the chip is ok. If you do not have 2 good keys then u will have to have a scan tool that will link up with PATS system and perform security access to reprogram it.

Feb 12, 2009 | 2005 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

With Key switch in on position I have no power to ignition


Check for any shorts other than that it should be fine cant think of any thing else

Nov 30, 2008 | 1990 Honda GL 1500 SE Gold Wing

1 Answer

1998 ford explorer


Could possible be a faulty aftermarket security system. The 3rd BL runs off a completely seperate circuit for safety purposes.

Oct 24, 2008 | 1998 Ford Contour

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