Question about 2000 Yamaha TDR 125

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How to bleed motorbike rear brakes - 2000 Yamaha TDR 125

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FILL THE BRAKE FLUID UP GET WRENCH TO FIT THE BLEEDER VALVE. PUMP BRAKES 4TO 5 TIMES AN HOLD DOWN AN OPEN BLEEDER VALVE AT THE SAME TIME. CLOSE VALVE BEFOR LETING OF THE BRAKES THIS MIGHT TAKE TWO PEOPLE. CLOSE VALVE CHECK BRAKE FLUID DO NOT LET RUN DRY. REPEAT THESE STEPS UNTIL YOU SEE NO AIR BUBBLES CO MING OUT.

Posted on Nov 30, 2013

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tflWI-ieCpA

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How to bleed a motorbike rear brakes


find the rear caliper and there should be a bleed nipple on the top , find the reservoir by the rear brake lever and make sure its full ! undo the nipple with a lenght of pipe on it to catch fluid in a bowl and gently press the brake and hold it down then tighten nipple , release brake and repeat this several times ! keep an eye on the fluid level so not to run out !! test and try ! P...

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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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I just bought modenas CT last month on 22... wen i brake use my leg..its sound like sumthin wrong... summore d tyre not safe at al... wat should i do... i feel like not safe at all riding tis motorbike..


check the rear tyre pressure if its correct look at the tire tread, if its ok then move to the brake, wind the nut in on a drum if its drum brake to make it more sensitive and on hydraulic brake if the lever goes and theres not braking power, you have air inside the system, bleed it out and try again. if you dont know how, take it to a mechanic.

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Brake pedal pressure low after replacing and bleeding rear brakes


i dont know what this car is but it sounds like you need to adjust the rear brakes and also there may be air still in the sytem, there are many cars that cross brake systems so if you are working on the left rear wheel you would also need to bleed the right front wheel, heres what i would do make sure to fill the brake fluid and always keep an eye on the level as you are bleeding the brakes, start at the right rear wheel and bleed it a few times then move to the left rear wheel, bleed that then go to the right front and bleed that one and last is the left front and that should solve ant air in the system problem, also make sure there are no leaks in any of the brake lines. good day.

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Replaced rear brake shoes then bled brakes.couple days later pedal went to floor before i had brakes.rebled brakes thinking air in line. Worked for a couple hoursthen went down again. Checked for leaks...


i am not sure about the process that you used to bleed the brakes, whether it was a one man bleeding kit, or anything else, but this is a bleeding process which i have used for over 10 years on everything from motorbikes, cars, trucks and rally cars.

It is as follows : ------

Use 2 people....i know this may be hard to arrange but i have even used my mom.

Use one person to sit in the vehicle, engine off. Now firstly go to the furthest brake bleed nipple from the reservoir. If the reservoir is located on the left hand front of the vehicle, then go to the right hand rear nipple (with wheels off, preferably). And vice-versa.

Next, with the nipple CLOSED, get the assistant to pump the brakes slowly (do not go fast, it is not a race....lol). Down, as far as it will go, and all the way up....repeat 2-3 times.

Next, get them to hold the brake pedal down, now OPEN the bleed nipple, and ask them to repeat, all the way down, and then up again, 2- 3 times, then CLOSE the nipple. This flushes the system out. Again, sloooowly.

Next, with the NIPPLE closed, get assistant to pump the pedal again SLOWLY 2-3 times, this action forces the remaining air in the system to the nipple end of the brake lines.

Next, have your assistant hold the pedal down, gently OPEN the nipple slowly until the fluid comes out...as the fluid is still coming, CLOSE the bleed nipple. DO NOT let them get to the bottom of the stroke.
What happenes if they reach the floor, and you still have the nipple OPEN, is that a small amount of air leaks into the system, and after a couple of days driving with heat expansion, your brakes are spongy again.

Repeat this 2-3 times on that wheel.

Go to the opposite side of the vehilce now, the left hand rear wheel and perform the same action.

Then the right front wheel.

And finally the left front wheel, the closest to the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Remember to use fresh, new up to date brake fluid.

And use a clear tube or straight into a bucket, so that you can see successfully the air coming out of the system.

Failing this, if you have bled the sytem properly, and this still occurs, and you have no leaks, it is time for a brake master cylinder replacement. As there is a number of rubber seals that keep each brake sytem seperate, within the master cylinder as a safety precaution. If one sytem fails...ie left front brake hose leaks, then that side of the sytem (the left front and right rear, in a opposite system) will leak out, BUT the right front system(which includes the left rear as well)will still maintain pressure to be able to slow the vehicle down to a stop (obviously with increased pedal travel)

REMEMBER not to get any brake fluid on the paintwork, as it is a great paint remover (over time). If you do get it on the paintwork, just wash off with water immediately.

I hope this helps all of those who read this advice.

Please vote if you liked it !!!

And happy motoring.............

Jun 30, 2010 | 1992 Pontiac Sunbird

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