Question about 2011 Honda CBF125
Codes malfunction Still on my Honda CBF 125 (MB) and it kept blowing a 10amp fuse for some reason. This started after I took off quite hard one morning and the fuse blew. Replaced it and it a few more times after that but got it steadily running after a while. Had to change the brake bulb and then my issues started again, ran until the end of the street and died with the same 10amp fuse. Tried replacing the fuse and it kept blowing every time I pressed the starter button. Started checking cables again and now I have a new issue. 10amp won't blow when starting. It just won't start now and I get an ignition light fault code (one long flash followed by 2 short flashes) Can you please help
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if it's metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any number reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
10 amp gauge fuse keeps blowing
Honda Motorcycles Fault Codes Motorcycle Manuals PDF http://www.sea-for-you.com/service/service-manual-cbf-125.pdf
Honda CB Owners Manuals
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Posted on Sep 12, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi, Your problem lies with the starter solenoid, although you maybe using a fully charged battery to jump it, it appears to be sticking or possibly faulty due to trying to start with poor battery.
The starter solenoid is usually located on or near the Battery compartment, it is cylindrical and has two heavy wires attached to it 1 goes to the starter motor the other to the battery. If you are carefull you can by pass the solenoid by touching the heavy wire going to the starter motor with the jumper lead. Make sure the jump battery is connected and both the NEGATIVE leads are well secure. Put the NEGATIVE lead from jump cable direct to a engine mount bolt or engine itself Not the battery.
There you are FixYa'd
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
glad to hear it was only the battery.
when you buy one (either from a store or online), be sure to trickle charge it completely BEFORE using it on the bike. gotta start with a fully charged battery or it will never perform properly in the future.
online stores will sell you "dry" batteries so you'll have to buy some acid at your local auto parts store. if you get it from a store, it should come "wet". both will need a charge first.
2 years is about right for a lead-acid battery especially the lower end units. if you go with a yuasa brand, expect additional 1 to 2 years.
glad i could help. enjoy that classic!
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
Definatly a good tune up would help, but it also sounds as if you may have a bad stator. I would check the voltage at the battery and see if it goes up and down when accelorating.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
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