Question about 2000 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder
Posted by Anonymous on
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Any changes you make to the exhaust system will alter the sound the bike produces. The more you cut baffles,and open up the exhaust, the louder it will get. What you do alter to a greater extent,is the state of tune of the motorcycle. Any changes to exhaust or inlet plumbing will require a retune of the engine to suit the modifications. This can be subtle to dramatic. Opening up exhausts can often rob low end power where exhaust port scavaging is relient on some back pressure for maximum effect.
Best to work directly with an engine tuner to do the mods that are known you can get away with, or buy aftermarket prebuilt pipes that have a known previously tested state of tune. Nothing worse than doing something, that then costs money to put back the way it was on finding out it didnt work as well as was hoped.. Hope this has helped you steer your custom mods a little. I can say with certainty, that I have ventured to do what you are doing many times in the past, and it has always cost me more money in tuning and... and well more parts :) Cheers
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.
Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
I know for the models till 2002 where the battery is located in front of the rear wheel.
Place the bike on her side stand
remove the negative battery lead at the left side, just below the transmission tube ( cone ) 10mm socket wrench
On the right side remove the security cap on the positive lead ( cross screwdriver ), then remove the positive lead.
The battery is hold in place with a 'floor plate'. remove both bolts of the floorplate ( on each side ) while holding the palte into place.
gently lower the plate and the battery.
I hope the 2004 model has the same assembly!
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
you have to take off your chrome cylinder covers.back one on the left front on right.they are in there.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 11, 2017 | 2004 Suzuki VL 1500 Intruder LC
Jul 01, 2014 | 2000 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder
Jan 26, 2014 | 1996 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder
Jun 07, 2013 | 1995 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder
Feb 06, 2011 | 1995 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder
Jan 06, 2011 | 1992 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder
Apr 12, 2010 | 1995 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder
Mar 06, 2018 | 2000 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder
Feb 28, 2010 | 1995 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder
138 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: