Question about 1993 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder

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Front axle tighten torque - 1993 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder

Posted by Anonymous on

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

ollie reece
  • 1167 Answers

SOURCE: wheel locks up when tightened down.

hummm the nut should be at 100nm which is a bit really when you tighten it a tad does the wheel move side to side or feels rough get back to me

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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1 Answer

98 W/Glide forks out of alignment how do I straighten them?

Hi, Max if your front forks are only twisted and not bent they can be realigned, start by jacking the bike up so the front wheel is off the ground; a half-inch or so will do it.
If the forks have been removed from the bike:
1. Set the fork height in the upper clamp, and then tighten the pinch bolts in 3 equal stages to the proper torque. If you're not convinced that the heights are equal, slip the axle into place. If it doesn't glide smoothly through the forks, one leg is higher than the other, so readjust them until the axle slides through them with little or no effort.
2. Install the front fender but don't tighten the bolts.
3. Install the front wheel and axle. If the axle threads into the fork, thread it in loosely, if it uses a nut, just snug the nut down by hand. Do not tighten the axle pinch bolts.
4. Spin the wheel as fast as you can and abruptly pull on the brake lever. Holding the brake lever on, tighten the front axle.
5. Lower the bike onto the ground, and, while holding the front brake, gently pump the forks a few times. You did remember to tighten those upper pinch bolts, didn't you?
6. Tighten the lower clamp's pinch bolts in 3 equal stages, followed by the axle pinch bolts to the proper torque.
7. Tighten and torque the fender bolts.
If you suspect the forks are tweaked but don't want to go through the procedure above there is an easier way.
A. Support the weight of the bike on the jack or center stand, and loosen the front axle.
B. Remove the lock nut, and then try to slide the axle out of the fork. If it comes away with little effort, the forks are in alignment. If the axle has to be pounded out, it's a safe bet the forks are slightly tweaked or rusted.
C. To correct a slight misalignment, loosen everything but the top clamp pinch bolts (you don't have to remove anything), and start at Step #3. Anytime the wheel is removed, perform steps #4 and #5: that'll center the wheel in the fork and provide better suspension and braking action.
If your forks are aligned but your handlebars are twisted start by loosening the handlebar clamp bolts, then in a criss-cross pattern tighten the bolts in 3 equal stages to the proper torque. You will see that tightening a specific corner pulls the handle bar in a specific direction you can loosen and tighten the bolts on one clamp to achieve proper eyeball alignment, it may take a few attempts to get the desired results.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at Good luck and have a nice day.
Harley Davidson Manuals Mark Workshop
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Nov 01, 2016 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

1 Answer

How do I remove my Harley front wheel?

Hi Anonymous, safely and securely block up motor cylce with wood so front wheel is about 6 inches off the ground, then block front wheel. Remove caliper and hang it out of the way with bungy cord. Remove axle nut and loosen right slider cap nuts. With a long screw driver or drift bang out axle from the left side, remove wheel. When you re-install tighten slider cap nuts and torque axle nut to 50-55 ft lbs. then loosen slider cap nuts and tap bottom of leg with a plastic mallet a couple of times to center fork assembly and re-tighten nuts to 15 ft lbs. install caliper and torque bolts to 35 ft lbs. Good luck

Apr 11, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

Front axle 2002 highlander

to remove front loosen front axle nut leave vechicle weight on wheel then just loosen front axle nut because axle nut torque at 217 ft lbs torquehard to loose axle nut with vechicle weight off wheel.okay. you need a 1/2 breaker bar and axle socket to loosen axle nut dont use 12 points sockets need go auto parts store buy right socket for axle nut.okay when you loosen front axle nut you need safely raise support vechicle. need to remove wheels remove fender apron seal remove transaxle fluid remove transfercase oil if you have 4WD.remove hub nut remove stabilizer bar link remove speed sensor remove tie rod end remove lower arm from the ball joint then slide the halfshaft from the hub then carefully pry the shaft from the transaxle.then install new front axle push in make sure front axle snap ring on front axle snap in place inside transmission just pull a little on front axle make its in place. when all done tighten front axle much as you can then when done putting every thing back in place.lower vechicle need torque front axle nut to 217 ft lbs.

Jan 12, 2013 | 2002 Toyota Highlander

1 Answer

Need torque specs. for front wheel instalation.

You hold the axle with a screwdriver through the hole in the axle (left) and apply the full torque to the axle bolt on the right (44 ftlb). Tighten the right pinch bolts on the right - throttle - axle bolt side to 16 ftlb.... Then tighten the left - clutch - shifter side to 16 ftlb.

This is the wing service manual procedure... i hope this helps FixYa!

Aug 24, 2011 | 2004 Honda GL 1800 Gold Wing

1 Answer

What are the torque settings for landcruiser hub and axle assembly

This is for the hub....front hub:

  1. Install the hub with a new gasket and tighten the mounting nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).
  2. Install the bolt and washer and tighten it to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
  3. Coat the inner hub splines with grease.
  4. Make sure the control handle on the cover is still at FREE (if not automatic), position a new gasket in the cover and install the cover so that the pawl tabs are lines up with the non-toothed portions of the hub body. Tighten the mounting nuts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
This is for the rear hub:

To install:
  1. Place the hub on the axle housing and install the outer bearing.
  2. Install the lock plate with the lock plate tab positioned into the groove of the axle housing.
  3. Install and tighten the adjusting nut with the special tool used during removal.
  4. Torque the nut to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). Rotate the hub a few times and retorque the adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm).
  5. Loosen the adjusting nut until the hub can be turned by hand.
  6. Tighten the nut a small amount and check the amount of pressure required to rotate the hub using a spring tension gauge.
  7. The recommended rotational torque is 5.7-12.6 lbs. (1984-88: 0.9-7.3 lbs.). Tighten or loosen the adjusting nut as required to obtain this reading.
  8. Align one of the axle housing slots with one of the adjusting nut slots. Install the lock screws into the holes of the adjusting nut which are at right angles to the aligned slots. Torque the lock screws to 35-60 inch lbs.
  9. Recheck the rational torque and install the axle shaft using a new gasket.
  10. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle.

Next post is for axles.

Aug 07, 2010 | 1986 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

2009 kawasaki klx 250 - need correct procedure for front wheel removal

•Using the jack under the frame, and stabilize the motorcycle.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001–1238
•Loosen the left and right axle clamp bolts •Unscrew the axle nut . •Place a stand under the engine to raise the front wheel
off the ground. •Remove the axle, and pull out the wheel. Take off the
collars and caps from each side of the front hub.
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc
facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not
touch the ground.
•Insert a wood wedge between the disc brake pads this
prevents them from being moved out of their proper position,
should the brake lever be squeezed accidentally.
Front Wheel Installation •Apply grease to the seals. •Fit the projection on the cap to the groove on the collar. •Install the caps , collars on the left (longer collar)
and right (shorter collar ) side of the hub. •Insert the axle from right side. •Unbolt the right and left axle clamp bolts temporally. •Tighten the axle nuts •Tighten the left axle clamp bolts.
Torque - Front Axle: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
Left Axle Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5
○Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure
even tightening torque.

Oct 13, 2009 | 2006 kawasaki KLX 250

1 Answer

I need the torque settings for changing the wheels on my BMW HP2 as I have lost the settings for the front axle,front brake caliper and rear wheel bolts

BMW workshop DVD says Front axle M22x1,5 (greased) = 50NM Front axle pinch bolts = 8NM Brake caliper to fork bolts = 30NM Rear wheel bolts M10x53x1,25 = 60NM
Brake caliper to fork torque needed if changing to SM wheels. Method. Torque greased axle bolt to 50NM, then compress forks several times without using brakes, then tighten both LHS axle pinch bolts to 8NM, then tighten both RHS axle pinch bolts to 8NM. Then test your brakes are working. Front finished. Rear. Torque to 60NM. I torque every second bolt as I work my way around the 5 Torx screws until they have all been torqued and double checked

Jul 22, 2009 | 2006 BMW HP2 Enduro

2 Answers

I cant get the axle out of the front diff what is holding it in 2001 dodge durango

here is a diagram on how to get the front pinion seal out and it does mention how to get the axle loose. please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, please familiarize yourself with safety procedures.
  2. Remove both half shafts.
  3. Mark propeller shaft and pinion flange for installation reference.
  4. Remove front propeller shaft.
  5. Rotate pinion gear three to four times, to verify pinion rotates smoothly.
  6. Record pinion flange rotating torque with an inch pound torque wrench for installation reference.
  7. Hold flange with Holder 6719 and four bolts and washers.
  8. Remove pinion nut.
  9. Remove flange with Remover C-452.
  10. Remove pinion seal with a pry tool.
    67189-dako-g28.gif Removing the companion flange
    67189-dako-g25.gif Measuring pinion rotating torque
    67189-dako-g27.gif Pinion seal installer
    67189-dako-g26.gif Tightening the pinion nut
To install:
  1. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.
  2. Install seal with Installer C-3972-A and Handle C-4171.
  3. Install pinion flange onto the pinion with Installer C-3718 and holder.
  4. Hold pinion flange with Holder 6719A.
  5. Install new pinion nut and tighten nut until there is zero bearing end-play.

    CAUTION Do not exceed the minimum tightening torque when installing the companion flange at this point. Damage to the collapsible spacer or bearings may result.
  6. Tighten pinion nut to 271 Nm (200 ft. lbs.).

    CAUTION Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion bearing rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque or rotating torque is exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed.
  7. Record pinion flange rotating torque, with a torque wrench. Rotating torque should be equal to the reading recorded during removal plus an additional 0.56 Nm (5 inch lbs.).
  8. If rotating torque is low, tighten pinion nut in 6.8 Nm (5 ft. lbs.) increments until rotating torque is achieved.

    CAUTION If maximum tightening torque is reached prior to reaching the required rotating torque, the collapsible spacer may have been damaged. Replace the collapsible spacer.
  9. Install propeller shaft with reference marks aligned.
  10. Install half shafts.

Apr 16, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Torque specs needed

on a 1999 Honda Accord, the torque for the front axle nut is 181 ft lbs. For the most part, sung it up and then go a bit further. If you are reusing the old axle nut, tighten it until the stake mark on the nut lines up with the notch in the axle (make sure to re-stake it). check out for individual vehicle subscriptions which have all the repair info you will ever need. If you had the steering knuckle out, tighten the balljoint nuts on the upper and lower control arms until they are tight and then tighten until the hole lines up to recieve the cotter pin.

Mar 18, 2009 | 1997 Honda Accord

2 Answers

Changing the starter on my 99 tahoe

Starter Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Denali, Denali XL, Yukon XL, 1999 – 2005 REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
Removal & Installation
4.8L, 5.3L And 6.0L Engines
CAUTION Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Protective shields, as necessary
    • Starter solenoid shield
    • Starter-to-transmission close out cover bolt
    • Engine oil level sensor connection
    • On 4WD, front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut
  4. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt tip is flush with the support bushing. Do not remove the bolt.
    • Mounting bolts from the engine block. Slide the starter forward until the starter clears the transmission.
    • Starter transmission close out cover
    • Positive battery cable and wiring harness from the starter
    • Starter from the vehicle 0900c152800a6916.jpgStarter removal—4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter
    • Positive battery cable to the starter. Tighten the nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
    • Starter transmission close out cover
    • Mounting bolts to the engine block and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
  2. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt is fully seated.
    • Front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
    • Engine oil level sensor connection
    • Starter-to-transmission close out cover bolt
    • Starter solenoid shield
    • Protective shields as necessary
  3. Remove the safety stands.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Connect the negative battery cable.
5.7L And 7.4L Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Mounting bolts and shims
    • Wires
    • Heat shield
    • Starter
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter
    • Wires. Torque battery wire nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm), and ignition nut to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
    • Heat shield. Torque the bolts to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm) and the nuts to 35 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
    • Mounting bolts and shim. Torque the bolts to 33 ft lbs. (45 Nm).
    • Negative battery cable
6.5L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cables
    • Mounting bolts/nuts and shim, if used
    • Starter
    • Wires
    • Heat shield and bracket 0900c152800a6917.jpgExploded view of the starter motor—6.5L engine
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Heat shield and bracket. Torque the bolts to 13 ft lbs. (17 Nm).
    • Wires. Torque battery wire nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm), and ignition nut to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
    • Starter
    • Mounting bolts/nuts and shim, if used. Torque the bolts to 33 ft lbs. (45 Nm) and the nut to 75 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm).
    • Negative battery cables
8.1L Engine
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • On 4WD, front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut
  2. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt tip is flush with the support bushing. Do not remove the bolt.
    • Positive battery cable nut
    • Positive cable from the solenoid
    • Engine harness ground nut and ground from the solenoid
    • Mounting bolts and starter
    • Heat shield bolts, nut and shield, if necessary
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Heat shield, bolts and nut if removed. Tighten the bolts to 35 inch lbs. (3 Nm) and the nut to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
    • Starter and bolts. Tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
    • Ground wire and nut. Tighten to 30 inch lbs. (3.4 Nm).
    • Positive cable and nut. Tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
  2. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt is fully seated.
    • Front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
    • Negative battery cable

Sep 28, 2008 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe

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