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Harley Davidson Master
Re: how does the shock go down by the exhaust on front of...
Hi Michael, Harley did sell 125cc bikes starting in 1955 and quit selling them late 60's earley 70's but none were called a 125 Bullet. There is a motor scooter out there today though called a Bullet 125 made by a company called " Taiwan Golden Bee " and distibuted here in the U.S. exclusivley by Cobra Powersports with tons of dealers nation wide, just go to: http://www.cobrasales.com/locations.htm and type in your zip code for the dealer nearest you. Good luck
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The motor mounts at 4 points-cylinder head, 2 under the front of the motor, and the swingarm pivot bolt. In order remove- seat,tank,rear subframe,exhaust.Remove the motor mount at the rear of the head, leave the throttle cables on the carb, unplug the wires to the TPS and remove the carb.Bag it and tie it up out of the way. Remove top bolt of rear shock and the swingarm bolt, pull the entire swingarm and suspension back as far as you can-you'll need the room to back the motor up a little to get it out of the frame. Unplug the ignition wires, and remove the last 2 mounting bolts from the front of the motor thru the frame. from the left side of the bike, back the motor up and rotate the front toward you and it comes right out. Actually took a break from installing a fresh Honda 250 R motor to write you this tip! Good luck!
It could be the exhaust mounts which are rubber and break over time. If you grab the tail pipe when it is not hot, can you easily move it up and down. If so you will have to get on the ground and look down the length of the exhaust to find the rubber mounts. Usually the top of the remains attached to the vehicle chassis hook or the exhaust mounts, which makes it easier to identify the connection point. The other possible problem is the strut or shock is broken. You will need to get under the car to look at the suspension or remove the wheel to do the same. Last, check the motor mounts if they are broken.
For shock removal and replacement is fairly easy -- first remove the top shock nut and then the three nuts on the tower surronding the upper shock nut - then remove the bottom through bolt and pull shock up through the top -- install in reverse order - (don't worry about the shock expanding after you get the bottom bolt back in, you can push the top of the shock down with the tower and secure it). recommend you replace both front shocks
No you do not need to compress the springs to install new shocks. Todays shocks have a nitrogen charge; you'll note your new shocks will have a cable on them. Install the lower portion of the shock, next with the upper end aimed to where you want it to go, cut the cable holding the shock back. The nitrogen within the shock will cause it to slowly extend. If you cut the cable prior to install you'll need to compress the shock and wire in down in to place for install.
Please let me know if this helped,
There is obviously other suspension or exhaust bracket problem that is looose. Check all the bushings in the front end, your steering linkages, recheck the strut bolts, check the entire exhaust system to see if it rattles and look for loose brackets or things maybe hanging down on the car. Also look at motor mounts to see if one is broken. Hope this helps you, Rick
You more than likely have one of two problems. One of your shock absorbers has a broken attachment bracket or 2) You have a broken exhaust bracket to your muffler. To check the shock just have the vehicle on a flat area motor turned off with emergency brake on and go to each side and "bounce" the vehicle using your body weight. Then to check the exhaust do this when motor is completely cool motor off emergency brake on and chock the tires so there is no chance the vehicle will roll. Get under the rear and attempt to move the exhaust assembly. If it moves to any degree side to side etc then it is this. If the vehicle bounces excessively when you bounce on it then it is the shock - repair accordingly. Hope this helps.
The shock would get just as hot without the exhaust being next to it.
The amount of heat generated by the thousands of up/down cycles a shock goes through, especially at racing speeds, is higher than the heat transferred from the pipe being next to it.
for everyone except 'overseer'
the coupler can be purchased at a local parts store
'Kenmore motor/gearbox coupler' will get it for you, there is only on for all the models.
it is an easy fix
remove trim ends of control panel
remove phillips head screws from bottoms of control panel under where trim was
slide control panel forweard & up about 1 inch, then flip over the back of the control panel, do not dislodge the air hose
remove brass clips in rear corners of top with screwdriver, remember how they fit
unplug lid switch connector
lift body 1inch and slide forward to remove
front center is the motor pump and gearbox
do NOT disconnect hoses
remove spring clips holding pump on to motor shaft, note where they go for reinstall. there may be a lock screw in the top right clip.
swing pump to the left and use a string or bread bag tie to hold it out of the way.
remove spring clips holding motor to gearbox shaft, note where they go for reinstall. there may be a lock screw in the top right clip.
heave ******* motor, to separate the coupling
remove coupling halves from gearbox shaft and motor shaft and discard.
using a wooden dowel and hammer, on the center of the new coupling halves, drive them onto the motor and gearbox shafts, (dont hit the fingers, they break, note the new couplings have metal centres to solve ongoing problems.)
rotate gearbox coupling, 1 up 2 down
rotate motor coupling, 2 up 1 down
install rubber shock pad on gearbox coupling
install motor on shock pad
reinstall spring clips and lock screw if fitted (bottom first, rock the motor on rubber shock mount to ease spring clip installation)
rotate motor shaft to align with pump input
install pump on motor shaft
install spring clips and lock screw if fitted
reinstall body in reverse order
it takes less time to do the repair than it takes to type this