Question about Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic Motorcycles

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Location of the ignition module on a 2006 flh

How to install a screaming eagle ignition module

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Harley Davidson Master
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Hi Anonymous, try looking behind the left side panel. Have nice day

Posted on May 18, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Check engine light on momentarily

you can rest the warning by unhooking the pos.+ batt. cable but it should be change in the programming so it does return. Mine does the same and keeps giving what HD calls a historic code miss fire on 1 coil. Some times it can be something as simple as aftermarket plug wires.

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I need a wiring diagram for a electronic ignition module.

If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install.

There are two types available. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.

All you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. They all come with wiring instructions.

Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory. In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.

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Ok, this will get you started. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Once you do that, no problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at wd4ity@bellsouth.net .

To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions". Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Jul 04, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: screaming eagle carbuerator 1989 softtail

Well, this depends on the degree of the hesitation. An S&S carb will have a small hesitation no matter how well you tune it. On those, I suggest that you roll the throttle on rather than snap the throttle wide open. I won't get technical as to why this happens.

On your SE carb, it's designed more like the CV carb that came on your bike from the factory. Since it's a Mikuni carb, there are usually an infinate number of variables that you can change on the carb. If you can find a supplier of the parts that will fit the carb, you can change the accelerator pump nozzle to a smaller nozzle. This will allow the same amount of fuel to be delivered to the carb when you open the throttle but over a slightly longer period of time. Or, you could go the other way. A larger nozzle delivering the pump shot over a shorter period of time. Fine tuning is an art and it can get time consuming and expensive buying all the variable parts.

My suggestion would be to roll the throttle open rather than snap it open if the hesitation is minor. In the case of a "fall on your face" hesitation, you'll have to find out what the problem with the carb is. I'd suggest diaabling the accelerator pump and changing the slow jet richer or leaner until you get it to where the engine idles like it should and revs cleanly. Then, put the accelerator pump back in but don't adjust it too rich, too large a pump shot.

A word of advice. You can tune a carb for the rest of your life trying for perfection and never achieve it. Get the carb as close as you can get and ride the bike. Do not become a "rolling mechanic". That's a person that instead of enjoying his ride, he's working on his bike in his head the whole time he's on it. Although I work on Harleys all the time, when I ride mine, I disregard every noise and thing that it does unless it just quits. If it breaks, I'll fix it when I get it home. Until then, I'm enjoying my ride. The newest bike I own is a '94 FXDWG and I love that bike.

Ride Safe.
Steve

Posted on Jun 06, 2011

buzzie1036
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: how to install a screaming eagle ignition module

if the bike is tuned properly with the s&s carb,it will not hesitate.i have a 2002 fxdwg 96 incher with a s&s g and I can snap my throttle all day long. so stop putting out the wrong message.

Posted on Oct 11, 2013

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I have a 1988 harley davidson fxr superglide with a 1340 cc engine. It is equipped with a screaming eagle ignition control module. bike will crank but does not start. how can I know if it is in fact t


If you have the old ignition module, try putting that back in and go from there. I would also check my fuses. and coil and see if you have spark.

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2006 harley screaming eagle wireing diagram


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No lights,tail lights or signal lights and blown fuses on my 01 screaming eagle motorcycle


Screaming Eagle is the aftermarket brand parts that are on your bike. What is the Harley Brand name for the bike, IE: FLH, FLHTCU, FXST, FXR??? Also, if you plan on working on your own bike, #1 I would suggest you buy a HD service manual. This will be your bible. #2 go to www.harleytechtalk.com it's the worlds largest free motorcycle site specifically for Harleys. They will accept donations if you want to give them something though. We have everything from new riders to master mechanics. As for your question...I'd say you have a dead short blowing the fuses. that's why I asked you what model it is.

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MY 1980 FLH DIED WHILE RIDING AND NOW WON'T STAT BUT TURNS OVER


Hi Anonymous, when checking for spark the CKP needs to measure the compression bump in order to send the correct signal to the ICM/ECM so always check for spark with either a third plug grounded or lift the end of the plug boot 1/2 " off one of spark plugs that are in the head. and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty
2. Fuel supply valve turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of over use of enrichner.
5. Fuel valve or filter clogged.
6. Vacuum hose to automatic fuel supply valve disconnected, leaking, or pinched.
7. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery connections especially the negative cable at "BOTH" ends
8. Loose wire connection at coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, spark plug cable connections loose,
or cables connected to wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil, ignition module, or sensors " Manifold Absolute Pressure" "Camshaft Position Sensor" "Crank Position Sensor" "Brake Apply Sensor
11. Engine lubricant to heavy ( winter operation )
12. Sticking or damaged valves or push rod wrong length.
13. Primary cam sproket spline sheared or missing spacer.
14. Security alarm system not disarming.
For a primary suspect please visit the website below. Good luck and have nice day.
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Where ignition control module located for 92 eagle summitt es hatchback


The ignition control module is located inside the distributor on this vehicle. Eagle refers to it as the Power Transistor.

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2 Answers

How to install a screaming eagle ignition module


first locate the old ignition module, usally under the seat. The new one should be of the same size, to bolt straight on, and the wiring plug should be the same and plug straight in.

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1 Answer

Check engine light on momentarily


you can rest the warning by unhooking the pos.+ batt. cable but it should be change in the programming so it does return. Mine does the same and keeps giving what HD calls a historic code miss fire on 1 coil. Some times it can be something as simple as aftermarket plug wires.

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Not unless you have/buy a Screaming Eagle or aftermarket ignition module. What makes you think the timing needs adjusted? It's all computer controlled.

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Hi Lcampeau12, and the usual suspects are:
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2. Spark plug cables in bad condition or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap to close or to wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connections at battery terminals especially the ground cable at BOTH ends, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
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10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor or intake seals.
12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damage intake or exhaust valve.
For a prime suspect please visit website below and good luck:
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