Question about 2004 Honda Silverwing 600

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Won't start when cold. starts if warm outside, but idle roughens once temp gauge hit second bar. runs roughly after hitting 50 mph

Bike recently down due to hitting racoon

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  • Honda Master
  • 1,190 Answers

Sounds like carb needs stripping and clean , fit a new spark plug and put new fuel in !

Posted on Dec 05, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: Rectifier Problem

If the battery is charged, its charged..... redpoint5 is right, check the battery when hot... If the battery was not charging i would then look into the charging system, rectifier, etc.... Is it an air cooled engine? Sometimes engines can get a little warped when hot... My grandfather had Corvair vans as taxis that somehow always got overheated, after that they would never start hot. So, he had to leave them running all day.... If your battery is OK you may want to have a look at your starter.... Or, bypass the selenoid with a jumper cable and see if the starter kicks over fine when jumped directly...... That would indicate a bad or worn selenoid.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 46 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 CRF450R Hard to start and wont idle

Hi
I would suggest that you have the valve clearances checked.

Also, check that the carb is clean. Pay particular attention to the PILOT JET as this opperates the idle circuit.

Jon

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

cape cod bob
  • 292 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 cbr 954 red light on gauge blinks

sounds like the engine management fault code signal. there is a free download service manual here. with it you should be able to decifer it http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

  • 226 Answers

SOURCE: 1984 aspencade starts w/choke and revs up, runs smooth. Take off

My 'wing won't run unless it has been warmed up some. I would suggest that you r&r your carbs to make sure the jets in the bottom are working correctly. They tend to get plugged up, especially after sitting & the aluminum flaking off inside... Rick

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Runs great when cold, hesitates when hot.

Hi mmagliozzi
I bought a cbr 600 fy new back in 2000. After about 3 years I've always had the same problem in summer when sitting in traffic, ie. anything that put the temperature up to about half way causing the fan to cut in. I thought it was a carb problem. also thought it could be the spark plug caps(coils built in breaking down only when warm).
Anyway, mine had become so bad recently that it had become almost unrideable as it kept cutting out and spluttering, only at tickover and low revs. Anything over 3000rpm it was fine. I thought it might be an electrical problem so put a meter across the battery. It was only showing 11.5v when running at tickover. Rev it up to 2000rpm it was showing about 12.5v. It should at this rpm show more. If you have the same problem you can rule out the alternator by taking the plug of the rectifier/regulator( under the seat cowling, you can access it by removing the seat) and putting the the leads of the meter across the yellow wires. test all 3 wires. ie if you were to number them 1, 2, 3 then test form 1 to 2, 2 to 3 then 1 to 3. You should get somewhere in the region of 20v at tickover and 50v at 5000rpm. If this figure varies by a large amount between each wire ( alternator winding) then the alternator is the likely problem. But i reckon it will be your regulator/rectifier. They are not cheap at £141 from honda. You can get them from ebay but the guy at honda (mechanic)reckons they are inferior and he has had to repair bikes with boiled batteries and burnt wiring looms. This maybe nonsense but I took the safe route. Whatever one you do decide to get(if it is the rectifier/regulator at fault) then make sure it is the cast ally heat sink type not the original one which has the gubbins incased in rubber.I reckon its a design fault with the originals hence the updated replacement which disippates the heat better.
Going back to diagnosing the problem. I found mine by running the bike stationary until the fan cut in, make sure your lights are on then operate the front or rear brake light. by doing this you are loading the electrical curcuit. When I did this my bike cut out straight away or very nearly did so. Yours might not if your battery is very good. If you notice it running worse then I would bet that you have the same problem.
Hope this helps.
Dan

Posted on May 23, 2009

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1 Answer

A/c doesn't work, temp gauge doesn't work, speedometer doesn't work until it gets to 30 mph, and rough idle in the mornings. could all this be the result of a bad computer?


Very unlikely that it would be a computer problem, it does not control the A/C, or temp gauge. Sounds like multiple problems. A/C could be just low on Freon, if pressure is low, it will not turn on. Temp gauge and rough idle may be related, if temp sensor is bad, the computer wont know the engine temperature and thus not mix the fuel correctly. But there are many things that can cause rough cold engine idle, like dirty throttle plate, or bad idle air control valve. You did not say what engine you have, so this is just general information.

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I have a 92 yj 2.5l 5 speed. it has only after warming up a misfire/rough idle. its fine when its cold and once it warms up and idle comes down it misfires/idles really rough. may be lacking power also. i...


check that the EGR valve is not sticking or has a vacuum leak. This valve will not operate until the engine is warm.

check also the engine coolant temp sensor (ECT). This sensor tells the engine computer that the engine has warmed up, so if it is faulty, it could be sending wrong information to the computer. If the sensor is disconnected, wires to it broken, or faulty in full cold mode, it will tell the computer that the engine is very cold, like -40F. The computer will schedule fuel for cold conditions. This is usually way too much fuel for a warm engine and it will rich misfire, idle rough, and be difficult to start warm.

The ECT has two wires going to it and is dedicated to sending information to the engine computer. It has nothing to do with your dash gauge that shows coolant temp. That sender has only one wire and is dedicated to the coolant temp gauge.

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This is typical. Whether you use the "enricher circuit" on a carburetor or the electronic injection system senses your engine is cold, your engine is being started with an extremely over rich mixture. Once the engine warms up and you either disengage the enricher or the engine temperature sensor senses the engine is warm, the mixture leans out. Still the idle mixture is overly rich but when running down the road, it should lean out to about a 13.5:1 mixture.

Try this, install a new set of plugs in your engine. Start the engine and ride a normal pace of about 50-60 mph for about ten miles. Then, pull in the clutch and hit the "Run/Stop" switch killing the engine instantly. Do not let it idle. Carefully pull off the road downshifting the transmission as you slow down. Do not downshift the transmission too quickly, Wait until the bike slows down to the proper speed before you shift. Once you've got the bike stopped, pull the plugs out of the engine and look at them. They should be a brown color indicating the proper mixture.

Good Luck
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