Question about 2010 Generic Trigger X 50

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The carburetor on my bike is feeding petrol back into the air intake, recently I've put a new piston in and I was wondering if it could be a slack in the barrel, or maybe the carburetor itself, if no

Basically, my son ditched the bike in a river, I've stripped it all down and blew it all clean with an air compressor, I noticed the piston had a crack on the side and I replaced it, but now I've put it all back together and it starts and runs fine, other than throwing petrol back into the air filter intake on the carburetor.

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YOU SHOULD SWITCH THE FUEL LINES THEY COULD BE CROSSED

Posted on Nov 20, 2013

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Demak ATM 200 dies with throttle


Hi, Shane nice novella, you need to get inside the carburetor and the usual suspects are:
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2. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
3. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
4. Pilot/slow fuel jet clogged.
5. Faulty accelerator pump.
6. Float level too low.
7. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
8. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
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10. Fuel filter clogged.
11. Intake manifold leak.
12. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
15. Multi carburetors not in sync.
16. Faulty fuel pump or internal fuel line has pinholes.
17. Fuel injectors clogged or faulty.
18. Faulty throttle position sensor.
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I have stihl saw stone cutter i have rebuilt it with new cylinder and piston it will only run for short time when i pour petrol in plug hole it sound good when running


This indicates that you have carburetor or intake setup problems. If the saw had sat a long time then most likely your going need clean and rebuild it. Please note that cleaning these with carburetor cleaner and especially the drip can destroy the carburetor. It is best to use an ultrasonic cleaner on these carburetors.

Also check intake gaskets placement as you may have installed either out place or backwards.

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The float valve is stuck open. It's time to rebuild the carburetor.

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1994 Kawasaki KX 250 has a vacuum leak


Hi, Anonymous your fuel delivery system by carburetor or fuel injection is bolted to the cylinder head by a metal intake manifold for some bikes and rubber boots in others, there is a rubber seal or gasket in between to ensure an airtight seal. The carburetor or fuel injection throttle body is bolted or clamped to the intake manifold also with a rubber seal or gasket in between to ensure an airtight seal. The downstroke of the piston creates a vacuum in the combustion chamber sucking in the air/fuel mixture. If there is a leak in the delivery system caused by, but not limited too, a failed seal, gasket, or rubber intake boot, extra air is sucked in creating a minor or major unbalanced fuel charge. The end results are high idle, that cannot be adjusted, exhaust popping and intake coughing. Your carburetor or throttle body also has throttle plate shaft seals, gaskets, and rubber diaphragms that can also fail. On new bikes, this is rarely an issue but Father Time catches up with everything eventually making older bikes a prime target. The best way to detect an intake leak is to have the engine running at your best idle and spray Carb Cleaner, Starting Fluid, WD40, Water etc. at the entire fuel delivery system beginning at the intake manifold to cylinder head junction working your way back to the carburetor or throttle body, depending on the size of the leak the RPM's will surge upwards a lot or just a little, if there is no change at all then there is no leak.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Carb removal procedure on a 1993 electra glide 1340 cc stock. thanks VC


To remove your carburetor, remove the air filter cover, the filter element, and the backing plate. There are two large socket head bolts that hold the backing plate to the heads as well as three small screws that hold the backing plate to the carburetor. On the other side of the bike, remove the fuel line from the petcock and take the choke control cable loose by loosening the nut on the backside and removing it from it's bracket. Loosen the adjustment of the throttle and idle cables at the throttle twist grip getting as much slack as you can in the two cables. Pull the carb out of the intake manifold seal. You may have to wiggle it a bit from side to side to get it out. Then, disconnect the throttle and idle cables from the carburetor linkage. Guide the choke cable out as your take the carb off the engine. There may be a vacuum hose connected to the backside of the carb that goes to the VOES switch. When you reinstall the carb, put a new manifold seal on the opening of the intake manifold. If you remove the intake manifold. leave the four bolts loose and temporarily reinstall the carb and the backing plate. Then tighten the bolts. This aligns the carb and the intake so that everything fits together and you don't have a vacuum leak.

Good Luck
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1 Answer

Hello ,i have a 1981 GS400(not E) with a prominent engine rattle/knock wich appears to be sounding from within the head area but only when engine warm and audable whiles shifting gear and feathering the...


There are of course many possibilities as to what the noise could be. It is troubling that a mechanic listening to it could not make a better diagnoses other than piston slap. Early Suzuki four strokes often had some piston slap probably due to larger tolerances. This sound generally will go away or lesson as the pistons get warm and expand. With out being able to hear the noise , my best guess is pre-ignition. Start by doing a compression check, both cylinders should be over 110 PSI and with in PSI of each other. If compression checks out, install new spark plugs and more importantly new NGK spark plug caps (about $5 each). Next take off the carburetors, inspect the intake manifolds for cracks or separation (air leaks), clean remove the carburetor tops and inspect the vacuum diaphragms if damaged or pin holed replace them (about $152 each)(a used set may give you the needed parts for less), thoroughly clean and reinstall the carburetors. If the problem was just a lean condition on one cylinder this may bring the cycle back to its original glory. If the damage is deeper in the motor (crank) perhaps a donor cycle or engine would be the best option. Unfortunately, the only way most of these options will work is if you are willing to put in the sweat equity your self to save the labor rate.

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1 Answer

There is a leakage problem of petrol in my bike (Suzuki Max100) when my bike stand's idle, after some time i can see the spilled petrol below the engine & wet surface of engine cover, recently i have...


Hi,

You firstly need to determined where the leak is coming from.

Turn the fuel off at the fuel tap. "Does it still leak?" if yes it may be that the tap is the issue.

Try and find the highest point where you can see petrol,

Is it around the hose joints? If it is you may need to replace and put clamps on the hose.

Is it leaking from the carburetor. If yes you may need pull the carburetor apart, clean it and possible put a new carburetor kit through it.

The main thing to remember is that the leak can only be between the tank and the carburetor.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Dave

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I have a dt 50 which i have put a new piston and rings in.Now the bike does not run properly.It starts with the choke on full ,picks up revs ,back fires then dies,Is this a fuel or CDI problem.Help please...


cud be a combo of both-running rich from carb or weak spark--chec plug and cable for wear and resistence or test ign unit--may need jet ajust--breakin procedure is the same as new bike--get a maintenance manual-sayonara

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2 Answers

Bike starts fine with the choke and will idle without it when warmed up. However, when I twist the throttle the engine dies. I have just had a bunch of work done with an independent shop, including...


hmmm, a few posibilities, might well be split cab diaphragms but overhaul should have spotted that. sounds like either too much gas or not enough, either flooding/gassing up or fuel starvation. could try running it without the aire filter too see what happens. it should run weak so if bike is better then you have too much gas, if bike worse then runnig weak to start with. I have seen this before with one particular cause.... petrol tap was leaking, gas runs past pistons when bike not running, soaks past and into crankcases. as breather recycles vapour back in to air box, when bike warm it's as rich sas hell. take of oil filler cap on engine and have a good sniff. you should smell only oil, if it's a strong smell of petrol, change oil and filter, dump petrol tap or see if new seals available.

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