Brake lines still have air after bleeding

Try bleed

1. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder. ...
2. Locate the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. ...
3. Attach the hose to the bleed screw. ...
4. Open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. ...
5. Have a friend press the clutch pedal in and hold it. ...
6. Close the bleed screw. ...
7. Have your friend release the clutch pedal.

Bleeding Clutch by Blocking the Slave Cylinder

You must have air in the brake lines. You will have to bleed the lines to get the air out. You will have to locate the bleed valve near each wheel. It is easier to take off the wheel so you can see everything. The brake line will have a drain screw near the place that the line goes into the brake caliper assembly. You will need a helper. Loosen the screw a bit then have your helper press the brake to the floor. Fluid and/or air will come out. While they hold it to the floor, tighten the screw so it won't such air back in when the brake peddle is released. With the brake pedal released, open the drain screw again and have the helper press the brake to the floor again. Repeat this until no more air comes out when the brake pedal is pressed. Then move to the next wheel and repeat. During the process make sure that the fluid in the master cylinder does not run out. The level will drop each time you bleed some of it from the bleed valve (or drain screw or whatever you want to call it). It helps to open the drain screw just enough to let a little fluid out. You won't waste as much that way. By time you get through with the last wheel the brake should not go to the floor anymore.

when bleeding brakes start at the master cyl lines. crak the nuts at the lines and pump the pedal until you have oil coming out . This primes the master cyl.. Next start at the longest line and bleed back to the shortest. Two man operation . Pump and hold down and then open the bleed screw . tighten the bleed screw and allow the pedal to come back up re-pump the pedal and hold down until all the air is out of that line. Repeat the process fpr all the lines ensuring that you monitor the oil level in the reservoir so that you do not have to start again.

If you replace the wheel cylinders or brake calipers and did not bleed them properly, you most likely have air in the lines, If the rear brakes are drum brakes they need to be adjusted (if taken apart or new parts put on) or the pedal may sink when pressed.
1. If the brake pedal is soft when pressed down, the brake lines have air in them and need bleeding to remove the air.
2. a soft brake pedal can also be a bad master cylinder. Replace the master cylinder if the lines have been bleed correctly but the pedal is still soft or sinking when the pedal is pressed.

If you have no e brake that tells me your problem is something to do w/rear brakes. Pull your re brakes back apart and make sure everything is seated properly. Sounds like you didn't adjust rear shoes out far enough. Double check rear adjustment THEN bleed again - rt rear -> lft rear ->rt frt -> lft frt.

Any time the internal pressurizable portion of the brake system is breached, i.e. bad seals, broken lines, replacing ABS or master cylindar or blown out cylindars at the wheel you must bleed all the air out of the system. A proper bleed requires 2 people. one person operates the bleed screws while the other holds the pedal down. The screw operator is in charge they tell the pedal operator when to push. the pedal must not be released until the bleed screw is closed again or it will **** air back into the line.

to bleed the system you top it off with fluid then
Open a single bleed screw. tell the person to press the pedal and hold it. the bleed screw will sputter with air and fluid forced out. close the screw and then tell the person in the vehicle to release the pedal. repeat this as many times as necessary to get a steady stream of fluid with no air out. close the screw and that line is done move to the next. The bleed screws are located in slightly different spots on different cars but they should all be somewhere near the caliper or cylinder on the back side of each wheel. Obviously you can trace the brake lines to them.

First of all determine where the leak originates. At the outset make a mental note that the brake fluid will need bleeding at some point since if the fluid can leak out it is likely that air can bleed in. Air in the brake fluid is to be avoided as it impairs good brake function. First of all get the whole area clean. Use a small wire brush to remove all loose corrosion. Now check that there is plenty of brake fluid on the reservoir container above the brake under the hood, top it up as needed. 1) Bleed screw : Have a friend apply pressure on the brake pedal and undo (yes undo) the bleed screw just a quarter turn. Release about a quarter of a cup of fluid and then re-tighten the nipple before (this is important) the pressure is taken off the pedal. Clean everything with a cloth and tighten the bleed screw no ore than an extra quarter turn if this was the source of the leak. Check by standing on the brake pedal. 2) Caliper union : The flexible hose screws directly into the caliper and if it is leaking at the caliper just give it an extra tighten and then carry out (1) above. 3) Pipe Union : the other end of the flexible hose goes through a bracket and connects with the metal brake line. If tightening here, hold the metal junction of the flexible pipe steady and then tighten the brake line union nut. Do not be tempted to just tighten the nut on its own as the junction is liable to rotate within the bracket. 4) Brake pipe : Most brake pipes are made of steel (??!!) which as we know eventually corrodes. Most corrosion of brake pipes occurs either at unions or at brackets where water and salt can get to work. The only recourse is to change the brake pipe for a new length. 5) Caliper body : the seal between the piston and the caliper cylinder can sometimes be compromised by corrosion. You will need to remove the caliper/slave cylinder from the car to carry out a thorough inspection.

Remove wheel, brake drum, and brake shoes. The cylinder is the part the brake line goes into and it spreads the brake shoes apart when you brake.

Loosen the brake line but do not take off, unbolt the cylinder and then disconnect brake line. loosely connect the brake line to the new cylinder so you do not loose much brake fluid, bolt new cylinder in and then tighten the brake line.
Reinstall shoes. There should be a bleeding screw/grease head in the brake cylinder, loosen this and have someone step on the brake to bleed the line, have them hold the brake while you tighten the bleed screw. Do this as many times as necessary until brake fluid only with no air comes out.
Reinstall drum and tire, top off brake fluid.

Jack up your vehicle. Take the tire off. Use a brake line wrench on the nut at the caliper holding the brake line on. You will lose brake fluid during this process and bleeding of the brakes is recommended after you do this. Once you get the line off the caliper use the brake line wrench on the top nut which holds the line to the vehicle. The old line comes out now. Reverse this process to put the new line it.

Now you need to bleed your brakes. Top off the brake fluid in your master cylinder. Have a helper sit in the vehicle. Have your helper pump the brake pedal 5 to ten times and slowly crack the bleeder screw on on of the wheels. You will see brake fluid come out and possibly some air. Have the helper hold the brake pedal down while you close the bleeder screw. Repeat this procedure until only brake fluid comes out. Repeat procedure on the other three wheels.

Only two options...remove the wheel cylinder asd carefully drill out the bleeder screw without damaging the threads or seat, or...replace the wheel cylinder (they aren't all that expensive). Since the line enters the cylinder lower that the bleeder, it is impossible to get the air out of there unless you turn the car upside down!!! No...don't try that!!!