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Wiring hotgrips there is a fuse for hotgrips where is the other end

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Im trying to install a push button for my horn because i dont have a wheel puller. the horn wires re green and black but not sure if they change towards the coloumn. Also i dont know what fuse is for


BRAD: LOOK UNDER HOOD SEE IF YOU CAN FIND THE HORNS THEY SOULD BE IN RIGHT-LEFT FENDERS PULL THE WIRES OFF THERE SOULD BE A PLUS + SIGN AND - GROUND SIGN TAKE A WIRE BEAR BOTH ENDS HOOK ONE END TO HORN-N-OTHER END TO SOMETHING METAL UNDER HOOD ON THE GROUND SIDE ON THE OTHER SIDE THE +PLUS SIDE GET ON WIRE LONG ENUFF TO GO FROM HORN TO INSIDE CAB BEAR BOTH ENDS HOOK TO HORN BUTTON ON OTHER SIDE OF BUTTON PUT OTHER WIRE BEARED AT BOTH ENDS HOOK ONE END OF WIRE TO BUTTON-N-OTHER END TO A FUSE IN FUSE BOX IT SOULD BE ON DRIVERS SIDE OF DAS HOPE THIS HELPED YOU SIGNED PHIL

Mar 20, 2014 | 1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

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What to do fro a blown Fuse or Tripped Breaker.


Well if you have Blown a Fuse/Tripped Circuit Breaker, FIRST, TURN OFF THE MAIN POWER SWITCH. Now, If a Breaker, simply flip the lever, the "Other Way" or, press the button, on the Breaker Body to "Reset" it. If a Fuse, you will have to withdraw the Fuse(s) from the "Holder(s)" until you find the Blown one, look to see if the Fuse Wire is intact, or, not.. a Blown Fuse will have the wire broken/melted. You then, effect repair, by simply using a length of the correctly rated, Fuse Wire. (Replacement Fuse Wire will be of different thicknesses, for different Current Ratings, usually, 5 Amps, 10 Amps, 15 Amps, & 20 Amps). Simply wrap one end of the Fuse Wire, around the contact, at one end, or if screw connection, then under there, & wrap clockwise, then, .make it go through the little hole/slot in middle, and then, wrap it around the screw, or wrap around the other end contact Then replace Fuse, turn the Power back on. Always do all this with nothing plugged into the power socket too. Now if the Fuse.Breaker "Blows" or "Trips" again, with nothing connected, you have a Wiring fault. Also make sure the Unit that caused the problem in the first place is repaired, or it, simply do it all again.

on Mar 05, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Fussable link removal


To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:








  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


  2. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of three circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.


  3. Identify and procure the proper fuse link with butt connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.


  4. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:


    1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.


    2. Strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the two good fuse links, Then insert two wire ends into one end of a butt connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the butt connector and crimp all three firmly together.





Care must be taken when fitting the three fuse links into the butt connector as the internal diameter is a snug fit for three wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutter, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.





    1. After crimping the butt connector to the three fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the butt connector and crimp very firmly.


    2. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a butt connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the butt connector and crimp firmly.


    3. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs then insulate with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.




Heat shrink tubing must be slipped over the wire before crimping and soldering the connection.



  1. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the two wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with two proper size butt connectors. Solder the connectors and wires, then insulate.


  2. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size butt connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair, then insulate.


  3. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.



Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor-don\'t cut or splice\'\'.

When attaching a single No. 16, 17, 18 or 20 gauge fuse link to a heavy gauge wire, always double the stripped wire end of the fuse link before inserting and crimping it into the butt connector for positive wire retention.

May 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Horn cigarette lighter use same fuse replaced fuse but neither work


Did you also check the BATT1 fuse in the engine compartment fuse relay center? You should have 12 volts through the BATT 1 fuse, the red wire connected to one end of the CIG FUSE, and the orange wire from the other end of that fuse to the cigarette lighter. If you lose 12 volts along that path, check for broken or burned wires.

Sep 11, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Its not turning over, i replaced the starter relay, the starter and put in a new battery. nothing comes on in the cab except the headlights, cab lights, tail lights,horn & the warning sound that comes...


Look for a fusible link or fuse link off of the starter or a set of fuses or Maxi fuse that is blown in the fuse box.

Fuse Link The fuse link is a short length of special, Hypalon (high temperature) insulated wire, integral with the engine compartment wiring harness and should not be confused with standard wire. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit which it protects. Under no circumstances should a fuse link replacement repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness. To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:
  1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of the open fuse link. If the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected circuit.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of 3 circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.
  4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link and **** connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.
  5. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:
    1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.
    2. Strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the 2 good fuse links. Then insert 2 wire ends into one end of a **** connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the **** connector and crimp all three firmly together. NOTE: Care must be taken when fitting the 3 fuse links into the **** connector as the internal diameter is a snug it for 3 wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutters, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.
    3. After crimping the **** connector to the 3 fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the **** connector and crimp very firmly.
    4. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a **** connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the **** connector and crimp firmly.
    5. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs and insulate with electrical tape.
  6. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the 2 wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with 2 proper size **** connectors. Solder the connectors and wires and insulate the tape.
  7. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size **** connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair and insulate with tape.
  8. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation. NOTE: Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor: don't cut or splice."
---
Fuses Fig. 1: Remove the cover from the fuse panel 88286p27.jpg
Fig. 2: Use only the fuses specified for the circuit 88286p28.jpg
Fig. 3: Firewall-mounted fuse box, turn signal and hazard flashers 84926100.gif
Fig. 4: Instrument panel-mounted fuse box 84926101.jpg
On earlier models, the fuse panel is located on the firewall above the driver's left foot. On later models, the fuse panel is located on the underside of the instrument panel, covered with an access door. prev.gif next.gif
prev.gif next.gif

Oct 15, 2010 | 1991 Ford F250

2 Answers

Ownersw manual does not list fuse for horn do


here is a link to the wiring schmatics. The horn circuit is on page 27. http://www.pswired.com/misc/pacaudio/syswire.pdf

Mar 10, 2010 | 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

I am looking for a diagram with labeling for a ''under the hood'' fuse box on a 1995 F250 7.3 Diesel . I've a electical leak that I've tracked to this fuse box and two specific fuses, but don't know what...


Two circuits are protected by circuit breakers located in the fuse panel: the power windows (20 amp) or power windows and Shift-On-The-Fly (30 amp) and the power door locks (30 amp). The breakers are self-resetting.
The fuse link is a short length of special, Hypalon (high temperature) insulated wire, integral with the engine compartment wiring harness and should not be confused with standard wire. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit which it protects. Under no circumstances should a fuse link replacement repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness.
To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:
  1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of the open fuse link. If the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected circuit.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of 3 circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.
  4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link and **** connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.
  5. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:
    1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.
    2. Strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the 2 good fuse links. Then insert 2 wire ends into one end of a **** connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the **** connector and crimp all three firmly together.
      Care must be taken when fitting the 3 fuse links into the **** connector as the internal diameter is a snug it for 3 wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutters, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.
    3. After crimping the **** connector to the 3 fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the **** connector and crimp very firmly.
    4. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a **** connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the **** connector and crimp firmly.
    5. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs and insulate with electrical tape.
  6. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the 2 wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with 2 proper size **** connectors. Solder the connectors and wires and insulate the tape.
  7. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size **** connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair and insulate with tape.
  8. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.
Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor: don't cut or splice



28a51c2.gif

Mar 06, 2010 | 1995 Ford F250

2 Answers

Black and decker air station won 't work


My Air Station blew a fuse also. The fuse that came with the inflator may be a bit too small amperage wise so I stepped up to .25 Amps more which is just a very small increase.

It is really ill advise to solder a wire in the place of a fuse. You are just asking for it.

The way I did it is I went to my local Radio Shack and got a small fuse holder with red leads and 1.5 Amp fuses. I soldered the fuse holder in place with the new fuse. And now I don't have to deal with any more solder. Just twist the fuse holder, take out the burnt out fuse and replace it with a new one. And wahlah. I'm back in business again.

Apr 04, 2009 | Black & Decker ASI300 Air Station Inflator

2 Answers

Thermal fuse 8269213


The common construction of thermal fuses si a metallic body which is pointed on one end with that end electrically common to the shell or case and a flat end that is filled with epoxy or other insulator and both ends have permanently attached wires.  

Sep 13, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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