Slack at rear driveshaft slip yoke and transfer case, but not at u joint.
Check Axle Bearings And Gears Inside Rear Differential. Hope This Helps.
SOURCE: dash shakes from vibration 30kph to 65kph.. 1991
that could cause the vibration but I have also seen brand new tires out of the blue seperate or through wheel weights and cause dashes to vibrate so I would eliminate that completly from the equation.It wont cost you anything if where you had them installed does lifetime balanceing.
SOURCE: I need a SLIP-YOKE for a rear driveshaft of a 1995
by slip -yoke for rear drive shaft, I think you describe a spline joint with universal joint yoke attached, I have all drive shafts for an AWD previa. Write [email protected]
SOURCE: I have a 2006 chev 2500 HD. The steering wheel and
u need to check rear end with the drive shaft removed vibration goes away would lead me to believe you have bad bearings in the rear end more than likely the pinion bearing
pull cover off (while fluid draining check to see if there a lot of metal in oil )
if you do see metal in fluid or laying in rear end you need rear end rebuilt or replaced
i wouldn't recommend doing the rebuild your self because with out the special tools and knowleage u can make matters worse
SOURCE: 99 Z-71 extended cab. Cracking or Clanking when
Most likely the U-Joints. It shouldn't be driven until they are fixed. You can check them by crawling under the truck and simply grabbing the driveshaft and turning it with your hand. You'll be able to see right away if they are tight or sloppy. Any slop at all means the U-joints are bad. Make sure to set the parking brake first and put the truck in neutral before crawling under it.
SOURCE: 2004 V6 kia sorento rear
COULD HAVE WORN REAR AXLE BEARINGS.FIRST CHECK ALL THE REAR SUSPENSION COMPONENTS MOUNTING BOLTS MAKE SURE ALL MOUNTING BOLTS AND SCREW ARE TIGHT ON THE REAR UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS LINKS.MAKE SURE REAR STABILIZER LINK BAR MOUNTING NUTS TIGHT.
Disconnect the ground cable from the negative battery terminal, by using a wrench to loosen the retaining bolt and pulling the clamp off the terminal.
Raise the vehicle and support with jack stands placed underneath the frame.
Drain the transfer case. Locate the drain plug near the bottom of the transfer case. Place a waste oil collection pan underneath the plug and use a socket to remove it. Once all the fluid has drained out, reinstall the plug.
Remove the bolts that connect the rear driveshaft to the rear axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it backward underneath the rear axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove it from the vehicle.
Remove the bolts that connect the front driveshaft to the front axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it forward underneath the front axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle.
Label and disconnect the electrical wires and vacuum lines connected to the transfer case. Use masking tape and a marker.
Remove the transfer case shifter rod. Using needle-nose pliers, remove the clip that connects the shifter rod to the transfer case. Slide the rod away from the transfer case.
Position a floor jack underneath the transfer case. Raise it enough to take the weight of the transfer case off the transmission.
Remove the bolts that connect the transfer case to the transmission using a socket or wrench.
Slide the transfer case rearward to disengage it from the transfer case. Lower the floor jack, and remove the transfer case from the vehicle.
78 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×