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andy gieser Posted on Oct 27, 2013
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Throttle cable replaced carb and throttle cables when I move lever from start to run the bike is at full throttle. why????

1 Answer

peter smith

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  • Expert 213 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 27, 2013
peter smith
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Joined: Feb 18, 2010
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This could be that the slide is wide open or the cable is too tight or routered wrong or the carbie hope this helps

5 Related Answers

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 14, 2009

SOURCE: replaced throttle cable on pw50 but can't seem to get it adjusted

If I understand your problem correctly this may help. There should be a spring just a bit smaller diameter than the slide that mounts between the top of the slide and the bottom of the carb cap. No spring means no snap-back. I am assuming there are no kinks in the cable and the cable was routed correctly when installed. Lots of times if the cable is not routed properly the gas tank will "stretch" the cable when the tank is re-mounted. Route the cable properly and the problem goes away..... As far as the slack in the cable, there is a an adjusting screw on the top of the carb (where the cable ends) and an adjuster screw at the hand throttle also where the cable ends. Some bikes have an extra adjuster mid cable but I don't think yours does, (working from memory here). If none of the above work then my guess is that the parts counter handed you the wrong part.

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Bob F

  • 48 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 20, 2009

SOURCE: will only run with full choke and absolutely no throttle.

Carbs gummed up. Need a serious cleaning or a full ruubers replacement/rebuild kit. Gas turns to gummy when left stting in the fuel bowls.

Use a couple of cans of Sea Foam.. best stuff in the world.

Anonymous

  • 53 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 27, 2009

SOURCE: hot start lever siezed in plunger of crf 250 x carburettor

have had the same problem many times. spray carb cleaner into hole where the brass plunger is located give it a little time to let the cleaner work. put some force on the cable it may come out if not remove the cable at the other end so you can remove carb to work on it

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 16, 2009

SOURCE: CRF230 - Throttle won't turn.

The overflow problem is a carb float being stuck open. Turn off the gas and drain the offending carb(s). Next, turn the gas back on and sharply tap the float bowl with the plastic handle of a screwdriver as the fuel bowl refills. The goal here is to vibrate the float to free it up. If doing this process a couple of times doesn’t free the float I would remove the offending carb(s) and clean with a spray carb cleaner. By the way, Check the float, it could be filled with gas instead of air. Clean the air filter then re-mount carb(s). Next, remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Install an in-line fuel filter.

The lack of movement in the carb slide is either a bad cable or the the carb is a CV model. The slide on a CV carb will not move unless the motor is running. Start the motor. Does it speed up normally when you twist the grip? If so, then there is nothing to worry about.

heimlich

David Belcher

  • 1978 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 29, 2010

SOURCE: 1995 Yamaha XV 250 Virago Is there a need to

The problems with a plunger style choke happen when the rubber on the bottom becomes deformed and does not seal or the spring does not push the plunger down hard enough, or the cap breaks so the plunger is not pushed down hard enough. If you put your finger over the hole and the bike runs properly your bike is running on choke. You have to block the hole deep inside the carb to shut off the choke. I assume the original problem was that the bike would not idle .If this is the case, take the carb apart remove the slow jet and clean the jet and the carb body out so fuel will flow at idle. This should fix your no idle problem.

Testimonial: "Thanks for the info. The original problem was the bike would idle okay, but stall as soon as gas was applied, I suspected a gas flow problem. I shotgunned a bunch of things including new petcock value filter in tank, taking carb off and cleaning jets, float bowl, and various orifices, replaced intake manifold (thought it could be a vacuum leak from some cracks seen), plus some other things I'm probably forgetting. Each change seemed to fix problem for a while, but it would always return (problem was always intermittent). Recently I noticed just moving the choke cable (without changing choke setting) was causing bike idle to change, then it died hard and would not start again after I fiddled with cable a bit - tried ether, etc. Since it fired right up after taking choke cable off I ordered a new one, still waiting for it, hopefully that'll fix it. I couldn't find anyway to adjust choke cable though manual debug section claims it can mis-adjusted. If this still fails I'll probably take the carb off again and try cleaning again. Been an intermittent thorn in my side for a while now. Thanks for the suggestions!! "

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1answer

Yamaha pw50 replaced card and throttle cables when I move lever from start to run the bike is at full throttle. why????

What is a "card" on a PW50? I have one here and have no idea what part you could mean. My guess with the throttle is that you have the cable way too tight. Check that first - it is quite touchy, since the idel is also st with the cable tension on some earlier models.
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It runs good but can't get it to start in cold weather. What should I do 85 Suzuki gs 550.

Without much other information of what has been done, I would start with the choke system. The choke cable may be detached or far out of adjustment. With a helper see if you can watch the choke cable move the choke lever on the carbs when you move the choke lever to full choke. Cables do break and or stretch. If that is the case then reconnect, replace, or adjust as necessary. If the choke lever and carb choke system is moving correctly then the problem may be in the carburators themselves.

Good Luck
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When trying to start bike there is a big backfire

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick.
3helpful
2answers

Throttle control won't work after i cleaned the carb and disconnected the governor. when i move the throttle handle it does move the throttle control on top of the carb to the high position but when i...

Hi again Ed,
Starting at the carb throttle shaft, your linkage rod (with tiny spring wrapped around it) should be connected directly to the governor's arm. If there's more than one hole in the arm, connect the rod in the upper-most hole.
Now, at the base of the governor's arm is another hole (possibly on a tab jutting from the arm). The main governor spring should be hooked in this hole and then back to the sliding throttle control that moves when the lever on the dash is moved. (This one definitely has a tab and hole.)

The choke cable end hooks directly on the choke shaft and it has intuitive movement. Verify that the choke butterfly closes and opens relative to the cable control on the tractor's dash.

To insure that we only do this procedure ONCE, and we get it right the first time, let's set the internal governor to base-line at this time.

With everything bolted back up, move the throttle control lever on the tractor's dash to full throttle. Then get a 3/8 wrench and a slotted screwdriver and locate the round governor shaft coming out of the engine block. The governor arm attaches to this with a clamping-bolt. You will notice that the round shaft is slotted for a screwdriver as well.
Loosen the clamping bolt slightly with your 3/8 wrench, insert your screwdriver and rotate the round shaft clockwise until it stops. (It has VERY little travel, so turn it both ways to verify that your are at FULL clockwise position.)
Hold screwdriver there and move the governor's arm in the same (clockwise) direction until the carb's throttle is set to WIDE OPEN throttle. Still holding the screwdriver clockwise, retighten the clamping bolt with the wrench.
Next, move the throttle lever on the dash of the tractor to idle and back to full several times and observe the carb's throttle shaft, it should come down from full throttle to idle and back again freely.

Start the engine and be prepared to shut it off if it over-revs.
If it doesn't over-rev, your base-line settings are correct.

By bending the tab on the sliding throttle control (the one that has the main spring attached) you can now increase or decrease spring tension and change top speed of the engine. Do this in small increments and if you have a tachometer for single cylinder's set top speed to 3400-3600 RPM.

Sorry this is lengthy, but as mentioned above, we only want to do this once.

Hope this helps, and feel free to ask away if you need more info!
Dolf-
Oct 15, 2009 • Garden
0helpful
1answer

My 2003 yz250 runs full throttle as soon as it is started. Checked the obvious stuff - carb throttle....it started revving out of control intermitantly now its full time. Any ideas?

3 things... First twist the throttle rapidly and listen for the carb slide to move up and down,, ya should hear a clicking in the carb... if so slide ok.. Sure bout the throttle cable ? At grip ? When starting the bike takes alot of kicks to get started ? As if were flooded ?
0helpful
1answer

How do i install the inner throttle cable on a 1973 flh and get the length right?

If you're talking about the old style throttle cable that is internal of the handlebar, it's pretty straight forward. Remove the throttle grip, the rollers and pin for the plunger. Pull the plunger out bringing the old throttle cable with it or at least out far enough to loosen the small set screws that lock the cable in. Now, run the new cable through the outer housing. put the end of new cable into the plunger and tighten the set screws. Replace plunger into the handlebar, replace pin and rollers, replace throttle grip. Now, set the throttle to full closed posititon. Move carb throttle lever to full closed position. With throttle cable through clamp tighten screw securing cable. Check for proper operation of throttle mechanism.
1helpful
1answer

Idles at full throttle

Be sure the throttle cable is routed correctly and is not being stretched. When disconnected from the carb, does the inner throttle cable operate freely? Lubricate it. Also check that the cable connections at throttle and carb are seated properly. Does the slide move up and down freely? Remove the air filter and twist the throttle while looking inside the throat of the carb. LIGHTLY seat the throttle screw and the air screw then open each of them one and one half turns outward.
2helpful
1answer

Bike is sometimes hard to start.When bike stalls and goes dead,it is hard to start again.This is a 2003 honda crf450.

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.
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