Question about 2007 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
To change the pads on your bike, look at the caliper and you'll see two bolts that hold it into the caliper bracket. Remove these two bolts. Rock the caliper in towards the wheel and back out a few times to loosen everything up and carefully remove the caliper from the bracket without disturning the pads or the anti-rattle hardware.
Take special note of how the anti-rattle hardware is positioned in the caliper bracket. Now, replace the pads and hardware with new parts. Make sure you install the inside pad with the fiber side towards the rotor. Don't laugh, you'd be surprised at how many I've seen installed backwards.
Now, next you must get the piston pressed back into it's bore. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to press the piston back into it's bore. Use rags or thin pieces of wood to protect the finish on your caliper. Once you get the piston all the way back down in the bore, carefully slide it back down over the pads without disturbing them. Replace the two screws and torque them to 35-40 foot pounds.
Slowly depress the rear brake pedal until you get a nice firm brake pedal. Make sure you test the brakes before you ride the bike at any high speeds. Failure to test the brakes for proper operation can cause severe injury or death.
Posted on Aug 16, 2010
SOURCE: how do I check my
Look on the right side of your bike. Find the clutch cable and follow it until it goes into the transmission. This is the clutch release cover. It should have a plug in it that takes a 3/8" Allen wrench or Hex key to remove. Check the level with the bike standing straight up. Keep the oil level between the two lines. Your bike came with H-D Syn3 20W50 oil. It takes 20-24 ounces of oil.
You may need to adjust your clutch to solve the hard shifting problem. Follow the clutch cable until you find the cable adjuster. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster inwards to get as much slack as you can.
Remove the derby cover. In the middle of the clutch assembly, there is an adjuster. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster inwards until you feel a resistance. Back the screw back out and turn it in again until you get the feel of it. You don't want to force the screw or you'll be disengaging the clutch. Go in just until you feel the resistance and then back off 1/2 turn. Lock the locknut down.
Adjust the cable adjuster back out until you have about 1/8" freeplay at the clutch hand lever. Lock the locknut, replace the adjuster cover, and the derby cover.
Posted on Sep 07, 2010
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