Question about 2000 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom

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Diagram of where v shaped metal shim go on hand brake assembly

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2 Answers

How to change brake pad and check rotors


Brake Pads Removal & Installation Front for_car_toy_cam_02-04_sst_frt_dsc_asm.gif

To Remove:
  1. Drain brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
  2. Remove the front wheels. toy_car_cam_frontbrakepads.gif

  3. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
  4. Remove the 2 anti-squeal shims from each of the 2 brake pads.
  5. Remove the wear indicator from each of the 2 brake pads.
To Install:
NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads.
toy_car_cam_frontbrakepads.gif

  1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press piston into the caliper.
  2. Apply disc brake grease to the inside of each anti-squeal shim.
  3. Install the anti-squeal shims on each pad.
  4. Install the pad wear indicator clip to the pads.
  5. Install the pads with the pad wear indicator plate facing upward.
  6. Install the brake caliper with the 2 mounting bolts. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
  7. Install the front wheels.
  8. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
  9. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
Rear TMC made rear brake components toy_car_cam_tmcrearbrakes.gif

TMMK made rear brake components toy_car_cam_tmmkrearbrakes.gif

To Remove:
  1. Drain the brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
  2. Remove the rear wheels.
  3. Remove the caliper slide pins.
  4. Remove the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
  5. Remove the rear brake calipers.
  6. Remove the 2 brake pads with the anti-squeal shims.
  7. Remove the anti-squeal shims and pad wear indicators from brake pads.
To Install:
  1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press the piston into the caliper.
  2. Coat both sides of the outer anti-squeal shim with pad grease.
  3. Install anti-squeal shims to each pad.
  4. Install wear indicators on the 2 brake pads.
  5. Install the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
  6. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
  7. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
  8. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
  9. Install the rear wheels.
prev.gif next.gif Brake Rotor Removal & Installation Front To Remove:
  1. Remove the front wheels.
  2. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
  3. Remove the front brake pads.
  4. Remove the 2 bolts and caliper mounting bracket.
  5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
  6. Remove the front wheel disc.
To Install:
  1. Align the match marks and install the front disc.
  2. Install the brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bolts 79 ft-lb (107 Nm).
  3. Install the brake caliper. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
  4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
  5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
  6. Bleed the brake system.
  7. Install the front wheel.
Rear To Remove:
  1. Remove the rear wheels.
  2. Remove the brake caliper assembly.
  3. Remove the brake pads.
  4. Remove the 2 bolts and the caliper mounting bracket.
  5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
  6. Remove the rear disc.
To Install:
  1. Align the match marks and install the rear disc.
  2. Install the rear brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bracket bolts as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the bracket bolt 46 ft-lb (61.8 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the bracket bolt 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
  3. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 32 ft-lb (43 Nm)
  4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
  5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
  6. Bleed the brake system.
  7. Install the rear wheel
prev.gif next.gif

Jan 25, 2011 | 2007 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

What tools needed to replace front brake pads & rotors


Brake Pads
Removal & Installation
Front





3.4L front disc brake assembly
toy_4run_34_frontbrakeassembly.gif








4.0L and 4.7L front disc brake assembly
toy_4run_frontbrakeassembly.gif



To Remove:


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
    this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Front wheel
    • Clip, 2 caliper pins, the anti-rattle spring then remove the 2 brake pads
      and the 4 anti-squeal shims

To Install:

CAUTION
Only replace brake pads on 1 side of the
vehicle at a time. Failure to use this procedure could cause the caliper pistons
on the opposite side of the vehicle to pop out requiring the reconditioning or
replacement of the brake caliper.


  1. Remove a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
  2. Install a used brake pad into the caliper and compress the caliper pistons.
  3. Apply disc brake grease to both sides of the inner anti-squeal shims.
  4. Install or connect the following:

    • Anti-squeal shims to the new brake pads
      NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced
      together with the pads.

    • 2 brake pads
    • Anti-rattle spring and the 2 caliper pins
    • Clip
    • Front wheel

  5. Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
  6. Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.

Rear
To Remove:


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
    this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Rear wheel






      toy_4run_rearcalbolts.gif



    • 2 cylinder slide pins from rear caliper assembly
    • Caliper assembly from rear caliper mounting
    • 2 brake pads with anti-squeal shims from rear caliper mounting
    • 2 anti-squeal shims from each disc brake pads
    • Pad wear indicator plate from the inner side disc brake pad
    • 4 pad support plates from the rear caliper mounting

To Install:


  1. Install or connect the following:

    • 4 pad support plates on the rear caliper mounting
    • Pad wear indicator plate on the inside brake pad
      Note: Install the pad wear indicator facing downward.

    • Anti-squeal shims on each brake pad
    • 2 disc brake pads with anti-squeal shims to the caliper assembly

  2. Apply lithium soap base glycol grease to the sliding part of 2 caliper slide
    pins.
  3. Install or connect the following:

    • Disc brake caliper assembly with 2 caliper slide pins
    • Torque to 65 ft-lbs (88 Nm)
    • Rear wheel

  4. Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
  5. Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.
--- Removal & Installation
Front
To Remove:


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
    this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Front wheel
    • Front brake caliper assembly

  3. Make matchmarks on the disc and the axle hub.
  4. Remove the front disc.

To Install:


  1. Align matchmarks and disc onto axle hub.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    • Front brake caliper assembly with the 2 bolts

      1. Torque to 90 ft-lbs (123 Nm)

    • Front wheel

Sep 23, 2010 | 2003 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

Aug 15, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Servicing front hubs


Automatic Locking Hub

  1. Shift transfer lever to the ``2H'' position, then move vehicle forward and rearward approximately three feet.
  2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assemblies.
  3. Disconnect brake hose from caliper.
  4. Remove caliper locking bolt.
  5. Rotate pad assembly upward then remove pad retaining clip and caliper assembly
  6. Remove brake pad support bracket.
  7. Remove hub cap retaining bolts, then the hub cap, Fig. 15.
  8. Remove housing assembly, snap ring and shims.
  9. Remove drive clutch assembly, inner cam and lock washer.
  10. Using tool J-36827 or equivalent, remove hub nut.
  11. Remove hub and disc assembly.Manual Locking Hub

    1. Shift transfer lever to the ``2H'' position and set free wheeling hub into Free position.
    2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assemblies.
    3. Disconnect brake hose from caliper.
    4. Remove caliper locking bolt.
    5. Rotate pad assembly upward then remove pad retaining clip and caliper assembly
    6. Remove brake pad support bracket.
    7. Remove housing assembly retaining bolts then the housing assembly Fig. 16.
    8. Remove snap ring and shims.
    9. Remove body assembly and lock washer.
    10. Using tool J-36827 or equivalent, remove hub nut.
    11. Remove hub and disc assembly

Jul 02, 2010 | 1991 Isuzu Trooper

3 Answers

My pontiac G6 brakes are squeaking loudly but the dealership says that they are just fine what can I do. I need to stop the squealing and squeaking!


there are special anti-vibration shims that go between the pad and its mounting surface ... also some systems use a special lub or adhesive .. some high end pads have built in anti squeaking stuff (thats very effective)....some of those also improve brakeing and reduce dusting and wear .. nice pads and i use them a lot but they do cost more ..here is one such site...

http://www.federalmogul.com/en/AftermarketSolutions/NorthAmerica/BrakingSolutions/Products/BrakePads-Shoes/WagnerPassengerVehicle/Thermoquiet/

...you shouldnt have to put up with squeaking brakes .. the shims usually work fine . retrofitting them is about the same amount of work as installing new pads however they dont cost much.. they should have been installed at your last pad change but they are left out frequently and are often not included in low cost pads ... .

some cars specify that you have to adjust the mounting gap for the pads . they provide shims to do that on better brake brands but not on low cost products .. again the result is noise ...

watch out for low cost pads that have a poor distribution of metalic fill ... those really mess up the rotors ..(look for heavely grooved rotors) ...there were lots of them sold in this country a year or two ago ..
..

Apr 11, 2010 | 2005 Pontiac G6

2 Answers

Changing front brakes on a 2005 sienna. Do I need to use the metal backing plate with silver shim attached to it on the new pads? The new pads are OEM and come with one shim for each pad. Do I use them...


There should be a shim for each pad and the inside can be different than the outside and the replacement pads may have two sets of both. Copy what the old ones look like and replace the rotors( they wear faster than the pads and if you measure them they'll be too thin. Sure they cost but you'll be pleased and the longer time the brakes last the less you'll pay in the longer run will be be worht it

Dec 04, 2009 | Toyota Sienna Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Grinding sound front wheel just replaced brakes last week need diagram for bearing parts


Suspect that a shim or spring/spacer on the brake pad is loose and scraping the rotor. Some shops do not check for proper pad installation...
Test to confirm that it is NOT a bearing, wet with a water hose - the entire rotor and brake assemble and drive for a minute or so. If sound is not present, it is NOT a bearing... but is a piece of the brake pad assemble rubbing inside or on the rotor.

Oct 08, 2009 | 2003 Ford Explorer Sport

1 Answer

I need a diagram to fix my hydraulic disk brakes on my mountain bike. my brake pads compressed while the rotor was removed and now the rotor will not fit in the assembly.


Method A: Using a flat and sturdy piece of metal inbetween the pads, rock the shim back and forth to separate the pads enough to get your rotor in.
Method B: If the pads are completely closed together and "Method A" is impossible, use a flat head screwdriver in between the exposed sections of the metal backing plates and use a twisting motion as though you were screwing in a screw until you are able to utilize "Method A" to finish the job. Make sure if you use the screwdriver not to damage the friction material with it.

Hope this helps,
matt

Sep 17, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Changing front and rare break pads in hyundia excel


this front::
  1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel/tire assembly.
  2. Remove lower bolt and caliper assembly. Position assembly aside using suitable wire.
  3. Remove brake pads and shim.
  4. Bottom piston in caliper using suitable tool.
  5. Install new brake pads and attach shim to the outer pad. Tighten lower bolt to specifications.
this for rear::

1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel/tire assembly.
  1. Remove axle nut, then the hub and drum assembly.
  2. Remove end shoe springs, cylinder and hold-down spring.
  3. Remove shoes and adjuster as an assembly.
  1. Reverse removal procedure to install, noting the following:
    1. Apply suitable grease to backing plate shoe contact surfaces.
    2. Install shoe hold-down pin, then assemble return spring with the pushrod shortened.
    3. Pull parking brake lever fully upward. Repeat process several times.

Jun 04, 2009 | 1994 Hyundai Excel

1 Answer

Only turn over sometimes


I will have to find the flywheel diagram for you but its still prob the starter usually when it does it sometimes its not the starter going bad its not in properly its either not in flush or needs shimmed they sell shim kits at auto zone or advanced auto for a few bucks just call down to one of those places and just ask them if they make a shim kit and if they do, do they sell alot of them if they tell you yes they sell alot then that will give you the lot easier start and cheap.. IF you have any questions at all let me knopw and if you could please rate me if you get a chance i would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Steve

Aug 13, 2008 | 1991 Chevrolet K1500

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