Question about 1983 Yamaha XJ 650
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module or CDI box.
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
10. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
1982 xj650 maxim NO SPARK
Xj650 No spark XS650 Forum
Yamaha XJ750 Owners Workshop Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Posted on Jun 20, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you have continuity from the coil to the ignitor, the problem lies within the ignitor. The coils function by having a constant battery voltage on the red/black wire (you'll notice that ALL the coils have a red/black wire) - the primary windings in the coil charge up, until the ignitor "grounds" the colored wire (grey and white in the front, orange and yellow in the rear). As the voltage in the primary winding drops, it creates a strong magnetic field - the magnet (laminated iron) in the center of the coil charges the secondary windings, and the very high voltages generated fire the plug. You've already determined that the voltage on the orange wire is higher than the voltage on the yellow wire; that could only be because the orange wire is not being "grounded" on a recurring basis by the ignitor. (You have to remember that the meter you're testing the leads with cannot react to changes in voltage nearly as quickly as they happen; to really "see" what's happening at the coil, you'd need to use an oscilloscope).
Posted on Jul 29, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks, the problem was the ignitor. I replaced it with a new one, and the bike works fine. Thanks again."
Tips for a great answer:
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Feb 14, 2011 | 1996 Dodge Caravan
If the engine has no spark, check for
voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO
voltage, then problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor,
ignition module or primary wiring circuit).
But If there is NO voltage at the coil
itself, then in that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition
switch or ignition wiring circuit).
But if the coil has voltage, then problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to spark plugs or hairline cracks in the coil output tower.------Getting this all possibilities checked will point towards the exact faulty part which is to be replaced.----------This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
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Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5821173-doesnt_car_start_gasoline_engines . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.
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