Question about 1998 Yamaha FZS 600 Fazer
My Fazer 600 has recently started to stall, shudder real bad, sputter until got going. Has been serviced 6 months ago and I ride it twice a week approx. my first bike, any advice?
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
12. Old dead or bad fuel.
13. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
14. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
15. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
16. Damaged carburetor.
17. Incorrect valve timing.
18. Weak or broken valve springs.
19. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
20. Check for engine trouble codes
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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OEM parts for Yamaha
YAMAHA FZS600 Owner Manual
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: bike does not start
Hi, I would start by checking to be sure the battery has a good enough charge, if not then locate the starter relay and try jumping the two terminals on it and seeing if the bike will start that way if so then you will need to replace the starter relay. good luck
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
SOURCE: Bad Vibrations
Obviously, harmonics are at play here. I suggest you change gearbox oil and filter then change the oil again (w/o filter) after 50 miles. The idea is to flush dirt and grit from the engine. Try the bike now. Some would say this is a long shot but it is cheap and not much hassle > and it may well work. If nothing else, it cant't hurt anything. Change to premium gas to eliminate pre-ignition.
If the vibration is still present you had best take the bike to the dealer for his first hand input. Broken clutch friction plate? Bearing going bad? Connecting rod going bad? If I had to wager I would go with the clutch. I am reaching here. Not much more I can do.
Cape Cod Bob, What are your thoughts?
Posted on Apr 16, 2009
It sounds like you probably need to replace the fuel filter, or you may have alot of trash in the bottom of your gas tank, possibly even water in the gas. If you can, take the tank off and clean it out well, making note if there is any trash in it, by emptying it into a bucket so you can examine it. Go ahead and replace the filter if you find any trash or water in the gas tank. If it is ok, then the next thing would be to check the fuel line for aging. Sometimes in rare cases, the hose gets old and weak and when you try to pull fuel through it, it can collapse and essential stop the gas flow, just as if you have turned the gas off, then when the suction is stopped the hose will open back up and appear to be in good shape. You can use your fingers and squeeze the line the entire length and see if it seems to feel excessively soft, if so that could also be causing your problem.
Posted on May 04, 2009
I suspect poor fuel delivery or starvation. At those rpms your bike requires a lot of fuel.Replace any and all fuel filters, check fuel lines for any kinks. Drain tank (petcock on pri ) then remove and clean petcock , replace. Run a bottle of techroline thru your next couple tanks of gas....Good Luck to you my friend...Tim
Posted on May 10, 2009
It could be 1 of 2 thing.The discs are out of round or the pads have a bad contaminate on them.If its bad stuff on the pads it would give a stop/slip/stop etc feeling to the brakes.eg .a shudder.If the disc is out of true,that means its not running in a dead straight line but has a slight offset, it will cause pulses or shudders in the brake.I just thought,,check the caliper mounts are not loose.Look at the disc,it should be the same color all the way around.Diff colors indicates a hot spot or warp.Jack up the front of the bike.Spin the wheel and put a pointer on the disc.It should not be out of true except for a very very small amount.It needs this to clear the pads from the disc so the dont rub all the time and get hot.Go from here,Hope this helps
Posted on Jan 10, 2010
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