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Try bleeding it, if that doesnt work you will need a new master cylinder/ master cylinder rebuild kit, brake seals or brake line, depending on whats leaking. The master cylinder and brake line can come off ANY bike as long as they are the right length (brake line) or fit on the handle bars (master cylinder)
I will bet your bike has a hydraulic clutch and there is air in the hydraulic line. Bleed the air the same way as bleeding hydraulic brakes. If you bike has a master cylinder AND a slave cylinder, bleed the master cylinder first.
You are dealing with rust or dirt in your master cylinder. When you look into the reservoir or top of the cylinder you will see a large feeder hole where the DOT 3/4 brake fluid feeds the piston of the master cylinder. You probably did not notice that there was a tiny pin hole right next to the large feeder hole. This pin hole allows fluid to return to the reservoir. When it is plugged pressure builds up in the brake system until the wheel stops turning. If you open the brake bleeder screw the pressure will be released and you will be able to drive most of the way home before the wheel locks up again. Take a fine piece of wire ( one piece of wire cut from a wire brush will do) and open the pin hole back up and your brakes should work correctly again.
Rebuilding the master cylinder is relatively easy. Simply purchase a rebuild kit, take the master cylinder off the bike, Take the lever off and then most of the internal parts will simply come right out. With the internals out, you'll probably need to lightly hone the bore with a flex hone of the proper size. Lubricate the parts and install them just as they came out and reassemble the master cylinder. Then bleed the cylinder, hook up the brake hose on the bike and bleed the brakes at the caliper.
You need to know how much taller your new bars are over you old one. If they're 4 inches higher, you need a 4 inch over length brake line. Now, if your brake line from the master cylinder on the handlebars goes to a "junction tee" located underneath the lower triple tree, you can simple replace the upper half. Usually, you don't see this unless the bike is equipped with dual discs brakes.
If you brake line is one piece all the way down to the caliper, you must replace the entire brake line. The best way to do any of this is to put the new handlebars on the bike, install the front master cylinder and use a piece of stiff wire and run a "fake" brake line down to the caliper. Then, measure the length of the "fake" brake line to get the proper length that you need.
Starting the bike has effect on the front brakes and I doubt moving the bike does either. The problem sounds like you're using an improper procedure to bleed the brakes.
First, fill the front master cylinder reservoir with the proper type of brake fluid. Then, bleed the master cylinder. Use this EXACT procedure. Squeeze the lever and hold it. Then loosen the line from the front master cylinder and allow the pressure to bleed off. Release the brake lever. Repeat this procedure again. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during any part of this bleeding process.
Then move to the caliper bleeder valve. Squeeze and hold the brake lever, open the bleeder valve and bleed off the pressure, close the valve, release the lever and allow the master cylinder to refill. Repeat until you get a full firm brake lever. Top of the master cylinder. Wait a few minutes and test the brakes.
If you cannot get anything to work out, look in the very bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and you'll two holes. One is relatively large and the other is very small. Using a small drill bit or a strand of wire, make sure the small hole is open. I've seen trash plug this hole and the brakes not work correctly. DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF BRAKE FLUID. The correct brake fluid to use is printed on top of the reservior top.
Make sure you test the brakes before riding the bike, improper brake servicing can lead to serious injury or death.
Your rear brake pressure switch is bad. Find the rear master cylinder under the right footboard of your bike. There's a metal brake line coming out the master cylinder. Follow this metal line back underneath the bike towards the rear wheel. You'll find a "tee" in the line with a "thing" screwed into the tee that has two or more wires connected to it. This is the rear brake pressure switch. It simply screws out and you screw a new one in. The wires simply plug on. They cost about $12 U.S. or so.
Just remove the lever, gently pull rubber boot out of the body, take a snap ring pliers,and remove the circlip, and pull the piston out of the body. Use the piston as a reference to install the seals correctly on the new piston. Be sure to take out the screw in the reservoir, remove the reservoir, and clean the fluid return pin hole ( Must Be Clear) , next to the large fluid feeder hole. Also using a dowel covered with a lint free cloth gently wipe out the piston sleeve being careful not to scratch the walls ( Do Not Hone The Master Cylinder or it will be ruined). Coat parts with brake fluid before reassembly in reverse order. Cover bike with plastic and put some old rags under master cylinder. Before tightening brake hose bolt, fill the master cylinder with dot 3/4 brake fluid and pump the lever until the master cylinder is pushing fluid out the end where bolt and hose are loosely connected, now tighten bolt holding the brake line on. This will aid greatly in bleeding the system.
The front brake light switch in located in the throttle switch housing. When you pull the front brake lever, it pivots and allows the switch to make. Sometimes the brake master cylinder and the front switch housings move and cause this problem. Loosen the master cylinder bolts holding it onto the handlebars and make sure it's slid down tight against the throttle switch housing.
If this doesn't solve the problem, you may have an electrical problem that you'll have to trace out and find the problem. You'll need a wiring diagram for this. There are two switches in the system that controls the light. I've already talked about the front switch. The rear brake switch is a pressure switch located somewhere along the metal line that comes out of the rear brake master cylinder. Sometimes these switches go bad but rarely. Having an electical problem on a bike this new is unusual as well. I don't have a wiring diagram for this model. Good Luck.
i have had somebody with the same problem on a different bike, and he had rebuilt the master cylinder and he had put a seal in the wrong way round / upside down and that had caused his brakes to lock up solid maybe check you master cylinder ,make sure all seals etc are in correct.