Question about 2010 Harley Davidson FLSTF Softail Fat Boy
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi Anonymous, remove seat and directly behind the battery is a black plastic box. The cover slides up and off revealing the starter relay and the system/fuel pump relay for you injected folks and the various assorted circuit fuses. Good luck
Posted on May 26, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2001 fat boy battery
Its under the seat, all u have to do is remove the seat, remove the negative connection at the frame and the positive at the terminal, unlatch the battery strap and lift it out
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
On 1986 - 1994 fl models the Fuse / Circuit Breaker Panels are located in one of three locations:
1. Under the Seat
2. Behind the Left Side Cover
3. In the Fairing / Headlight Bucket
Posted on May 01, 2009
I would not replace anthing yet! An intermittent light could mean that you simply have a wiring short! Get someone to help by watching your engine light, start your bike and do a wriggle test oun your wiring harness. You may find it to be no more than a simple wiring problem at the connector. You said there are no stored codes and the bike is running fine? No missing of sputtering? If not I would think the problen is no more than a possible temporary short in the wiring at the sensors
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.
To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.
Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.
Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.
Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.
Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
SOURCE: Cannot locate oil plug drain
THE OIL DRAIN PLUG ON A 2001 FLSTF ( FATBOY) IS JUST IN FRONT OF REAR TIRE ON RIGHT SIDE OF BIKE. ITS IN A FRAME SUPPORT RAIL, YOU CAN TELL BY LOOKING AT IT CAUSE THE PLUG CAN BE REMOVED WITH A 1/4 ALLEN WRENCH OR A SOCKET (SORRY DON'T REMEMBER SIZE) AROUND THE WHOLE DRAIN PLUG.
Posted on Jun 30, 2010
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