Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide Standard
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap to close or to wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connections at battery terminals,
ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor.
12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damage intake or exhaust vale.
For a prime suspect please visit website below and good luck:
Big Twin Carb EFI DTC Intructions codes Harley Davidson Forums Harley...
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You rebuilt the carb so I'm guessing the backfire comes from the pipes.Check the ign system/distributer.Advance plate, condenser stuff like that.Advance spring might be broke.Oh yeh,the coil since it warms up before stuff happens.
Posted on Mar 25, 2010
SOURCE: FUEL ISSUES WITH CARB..
the only thing i can suggest, is a sticky needle and seat, if fuel is coming out the over flow, then the float is not shutting off the fuel running into the carb, it has to go some where, so it comes out the overflow. Pressure in the tank wont have any affect at all with your problem. I would take apart the carby again, and check and clean the needle and seat.
Hope this helps
Posted on Jun 13, 2010
If you had gasoline in your oil, there's only two ways for it to get there. It either came through the carb or someone poured it in there.
I've been messing with Harley's since 1966, back before they created these cute little names for the engines like Panheads, Shovelheads, Evolution, Blockhead, Fathead. We only had two engines, Sportster 61 cu. in, and the 74 cu. in. in the big bikes.
Now, the way the fuel got into your gasoline was through the carb. If you've ever watched an old timer get off his bike, he'll reach under the tank and turn the fuel off. This was keep what happened to you from happening. It worked every time. The problem these days is in their infinite wisdom, Harley has adopted the misguided conception that the Japs started, the vacuum operated petcock. The absolute worst invention man has ever designed and put on a motor vehicle.
Now, in both the petcock and the float bowl of the carb you have a "needle and seat" all it takes is one very small bit of trash to cause the gasoline to seep past the needle. Keep in mind now that gasoline has a lower viscositiy than water. It will go where water won't go. It's thinner. A lot of gasoline can seep past a needle and seat in a 12 hour period. I've seen fuel tanks empty themselves in that time.
I've fixed many bikes that had the vacuum operated petcocks on them. They started putting them on the bike in 1996. I've seen people stranded beside the road with full tanks of fuel but not a drop getting to the carb. I've seen gasoline pouring out the small vacuum line (probably what happened to you) after the engine had been flooded out due to a ruptured diaphragm. And, I've even seen a couple of cases where the engine was sucking air through the petcock and would not idle or even run very well.
Now, when you change the oil on a harley engine, you don't get all the oil out of it like you do on car engine or a Japper engine. There will be a certain amount of oil left in the top of the heads and the camchest. Also, the gasoline fills up the crankcases that are supposed to be empty of oil. If you have a quart of gasoline that has run down past the rings into the crankcase, you now have one extra quart of fluid in your oil system. Whenever I suspect something like what happened to you, I always take the spark plugs out and spin the engine over a few times to get any excess fluid out of the crankcase. It will blow it out of the crankcase vents which in your case is in the heads. Those big bolts that hold the air filter backing plate on are hollow and are actually crankcase vents.
So, in short, my suggestion is to take that vacuum operated petcock off your bike, plug up the vacuum hose, and purchase a high quality manually operated petcock like a Pingle. They're expensive but if you get into the habit of turning it off whenever you get off your bike, this problem will NEVER happen to you again.
BTW:, you need to check your primary oil to see if it's been diluted as well. The gasoline will go past the sprocket shaft seal and contaminate that oil as well. You're pretty safe on the transmission lube though.
Steve (old biker)\\\\\
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
In 1996, Harley went to a vacuum operated fuel petcock. If the engine is not running or at least cranking over, you don't have any vacuum to the petcock diaphragm and the fuel is shut off. With the fuel line off, turn the ignition switch on and spin the engine. Do not take the spark plugs out of the engine or you won't have any vacuum on the intake manifold. When you spin the engine, you should have a full flow of fuel. If not, check the vacuum hose on the backside of the petcock that runs to the backside of the carburetor. If you determine the petcock is bad, you must replace it. I prefer a high quality manually operated petcock, old school style. You'll have to turn your fuel on and off manually but you won't have anymore petcock problems. Pingel is the best on the market in my opinion. They ain't cheap though.
Posted on Aug 06, 2011
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