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Hey everyone i have a suzuki 1978 ts 250 and it runs but as soon as you pull the cable for more fuel it just smothers and die it have no vacuume leaks and i have tamperd with the air and petrol screw but still no results it start easely but stay like in idel and you have to keep it running by playing with throttle and when to much throttle apply it dies can anyone please help

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Your carburetor has multipule dirty passages. Its getting the right fuel air mixture at Idle but when you open it up it doesn't, which is why it dies. A through soaking of the carb in carb cleaner sould help or simply pull it off and have a shop clean it.

Posted on Oct 14, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Engine dies after quad is warmed up (10-15 minutes)

Just a hunch, had this happen to a bike of mine years ago, could be the piston rings are gettting ready to go(wore down). What happens is when the quad is cold the rings expand tight into the cylinder walls allowing it to get full compression and run ok. When it heats up they shrink allowing the slightest amount of give which in turn will cause you problems similar to what your describing.

Posted on Jun 10, 2009

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SOURCE: my 2008 kfx450r wont stay running. when i finally

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Open the petcock, (gas valve), and drain 1/2 cup of gas from the tank. Did the fuel flow freely? Is there any water or trash in the cup?

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower right side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Check the float height. The fuel level in the bowl may be low. Bend the tang (in the center of the float) downward to raise the fuel level. EASY, a little bend goes along way.
Put the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

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Posted on Jul 06, 2009

yeskimoe663
  • 224 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Suzuki Boulevard C50 engine dies

Even though you probably don't have that many miles on the bike, or if you do have a lot riding time on it, it sounds to me like you need a valve adjustment. That's a high reving bike for that engine that works pretty hard so you might have 1 - 3 loose valves.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

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I drive a Nissan 1400 bakkie (not a champ) i drives good and then starts jerking and wants to die as soon i i give petrol it sounds like its smothering


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Hi, Suzuki and the usual suspects are:
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5. Float needle and seat sticking.
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7. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
8. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
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2003 yz 250 starts and idles but runs rich and bogs as soon as the throttle is applied


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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5. Accelerator pump leaking or no output.
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1 Answer

Who type of engine oil and how much should you use for a 1978 suzuki ts 250?


Your transmission uses less than a quart of oil. The exact amount of oil is stamped by the fill hole on the engine case or side cover, probably about 800cc or 900cc. If you choose automobile oil, do not use an oil with a rating greater than SE, SF, or SG. You could also use motorcycle gear oil like Belray 70 wt, 75wt, or 80wt. Or you canuse any oil that has the JASO MA Japanese engine motorcycle rating for engines that have wet clutches and transmission gears running in them. Do not use any oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the label.

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Carb flooding 1978 ts 250 suzuki trail bike, new float- needle valve, cleaned tank is clean


You only have three options as to what is wrong. Either the float is stuck, adjusted wrong or trash is not letting the float needle close fully. My bet is trash from the gas tank.

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Rode my 2004 rm 250 for 2hrs, as soon as i got to truck it died


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Fuel tank empty
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1978 Suzuki GS 1000 revs up on its own.


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

To my understanding, an air leak would be anywhere before the carbs; the air box  cover, the the 4 coupling rubber tubes or even the air filter itself.  Although an air leak in any of these areas would not cause an intermittent high idle. Air leak here would cause a lean mix and/or a flat spot while accelerating.  

On the other hand, a vacuum leak could cause high idle. Vacuum leak would be after the carbs and on any of the coupling to the intake ports of the engine or how they are fitted. In some versions, there are balancer nipples that have interconnecting rubber hoses and/or a vacuum line to the fuel cut-off valve that couls also have a hole or tear. It must be noted that the high idle because of a vacuum leak is consistent.

Intermittent high idle would often be mechanical or almost always on the throttle system. Common causes are:
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Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

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