Question about 2003 Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport

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Clutch is blue and chattering, also bike has a vibration at around 50 mph. i've changed primary oil, and motor oil and filter. no differance. any sugestions?

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 3,506 Answers

How do you know the clutch is blue unless you have had it apart. If it is blue it is overheated and you need to change the parts out for new ones. It is likely slipping if blued. Make sure it gets done right and adjusted properly when you rebuild it. Can be just as cheap to just buy the whole clutch as an assembly.

Posted on Nov 09, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: How many quarts of oil does it take to change oil

4 qts without changing filter
4.5qt with filter change

Posted on May 18, 2009

  • 420 Answers

SOURCE: OIL CHANGE, NOW ITS KNOCKIN

You were supposed to put 4 ounces into the filter before installation to prime the system.

Posted on May 25, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Chatter noise from primary drive case when

Sounds like you need to clean the clutch plates. This is rather unusual on the newer bikes but quite common on the older Shovelhead bikes. Make sure you're using the correct lubricant at the right level in your primary.

The clutch disc can get a glaze on them. We disassemble the clutch and wash the fiber plates with gasoline. Yes, I know gasoline is dangerous to use as a cleaning solvent due to it's flammability. Just be careful as it is the cheapest solvent that will cut the glaze. Mineral Spirits or diesel fuel won't work. Make sure you notice how the clutch plates are postitioned in the clutch basket. The middle plate is usually a spring plate. Once cleaned, lay a piece of fine emory cloth on a flat surface and sand both sides of the fiber disc using a figure 8 motion. Not much, just enough to knock the remaining glaze off the disc.

Now, put the clutch back together and adjust it properly as improper adjustment is probably what caused this to begin with. Back off on the adjustment on the clutch cable. Make it as short as possible. Now, in the center of the clutch pack there is a screw with a locknut on it. Break the locknut loose. Adjust the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. Then, back the screw back out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the lock nut back down. Now, adjust your clutch cable so that you've got about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch lever. While you're in the primary, check the adjustment of the primary chain if your bike is equipped with the manual adjuster. Good Luck.

Posted on Nov 11, 2009

  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: I've made some minor changes on my '05 softail

Put gauge on fuel rail and see what pressure does.Does it drop when engine quits? Fuel pump may be bad.This is realy off the wall but..Computers have engine protection modes.It gets code of engine danger,like low or no oil pressure and it shuts engine down before it blows.What kind of code would too much oil send?May have to clear and reset computer.Told you this is off the wall.lol Sorry I can't be of help.

Posted on Mar 22, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2004 Duece

Did you check your front belt pulley? These pulleys are made of relatively soft cast iron as compared to the final drive gear. This is so that the easily replaced and relatively inexpensive front pulley wears before the difficult to replace and expensive final drive gear wears. The pulley will wear in the splined inner bore and will get loose on the final drive gear. Then transmission oil will run out of the pulley and down the inner primary. This is because of the lose of pressure on the "Quad" ring behind the pulley spacer. This may be your problem.

Another mistake a LOT of people make when replacing any seal is putting the seal up dry. On the inner primary seal, you want to put a bit sealer compound around the outer edge of the seal where it goes into the case. Although there are a lot new sealants out there, I still prefer good Permatex non-hardening. Once you get the seal in and straight, oil the inner seal surfaces and the bearing race. If you put the seal up dry, you start the engine, the mainshaft turns about 1000 rpm. This will burn up the delicate rubber lips on the seal almost instantly because of friction before the oil can get to the seal. You MUST lubricate the seal or it WILL burn up before you can blink an eye.

Also check the position of the inner primary bearing race. It must be 0.100" from the final drive gear. If it's way out of position, the seal may not be riding properly on it.

If you are in doubt about whether the transmission is leaking or the primary, refill the primary with a quart of automatic transmission fluid, the red stuff. It will work long enough for you to determine whether it's the transmission leaking or the primary leaking. If it's the transmission, check the front belt drive pulley for wear, You'll usually find that the large nut that holds it on is loose.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Dec 28, 2010

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The engine oil tank is on the bottom of the transmission. On one corner of the transmission there is a large 2" diameter cap with knurling on the edges. Pull this out and you'll see the oil dipstick. Check the oil with the bike on the side stand. Lower mark is FULL COLD, upper mark is FULL HOT. do not overfill. Capacity with filter change 3 quarts.

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The primary also has oil in it. With the bike standing straight up, remove the round "derby" cover. Inside is the clutch assembly. You'll see a bright ring around the clutch assembly with the dark clutch spring inside. Fill the oil just until it touches the lowest point of the dark clutch spring. Do not overfill. Capacity, 36-42 ounces.

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