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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: burgman 250 will not start
Ck fuses and wire connections first. If no problem seen, get bike running and disconnect the ground cable @ battery. If bike dies the problem generally is in the stator or regulator assembly not keeping battery charged. Bike will run untill the battery is too low to keep the ignition system energized and the bike will die. If it continues running w/the ground disconnected, the battery could have a dead cell which will drain the battery in a very short time whether it is running or not.
Posted on May 03, 2009
Double check your battery. It could be bad and not holding a charge... If it's good then you can move to the generator. An easy way to check the generator is to get a voltage meter and put one lead on the pos and the other lead on the neg (while the bike is running), the voltage meter should read approx 14volts. If not, then you know the generator isn't putting out enough power to charge the battery. Then check all wiring back to the stator. Hope the stator isn't bad because I remember it being pretty expensive. Good luck...
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
i would first try a new battery if that don't work the magneto may be bad the battery if it has a dead cell could short the magneto
Posted on Sep 04, 2009
Please check for power on the starter side of the start solenoid - remember to press the start switch when measuring. Should be 0 until you press the switch, then should be 12 V on the DC scale.
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Posted on Dec 23, 2009
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SOURCE: battery wont stay charged while
Step 1. First things first, load test the battery. Most places like Auto Zone will do it for free. Even if it measures over 12.5 vdc it can still be bad under a load. Battery is typically rated at 19 amp hours and 270 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).
Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.
Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.
Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).
Posted on Jul 24, 2011
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a hot start issue.
be related to low fuel pressure or problem with crank sensor.
it can be weak battery or starter.
possibilities are to be inspected to confirm what exactly it is.------
troubleshoot and confirm the issue,i suggest you refer few solved help links
with similar types of problem like yours:------
the link below:------
details will help.
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