Question about 2000 kawasaki ZRX 1100
From your description, it sounds like a bad starter motor. That is provided all of the cables going from battery to relay, and relay to starter are not corroded or have poor connections. The relay is a weak point, so it may be damaged as well if the starter has been pulling too many amps.
Posted on Oct 25, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If lights dim when trying to start,Battery is to weak(may have 12 volts but not enough amps)
Bike dieing when removing power from jumper says the lighting coil on the stator plate is bad and this could also have killed the voltage regulator,Which would kill the battery by over charging it.
Hesitation and carbon smell could be from a non firing cylinder.
So,Take the battery and have it load tested (free at most auto part stores)
Check for power from the lighting coil on the stator
Replace the voltage regulator.
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Posted on May 15, 2009
SOURCE: starter relay fuse keeps blowing
30 amps is heavy, so bypass nothing. Look for a short in a heavy circuit like the the headligh, starter (questionable because of delay) same with starter relay. You have a wire shorting out on the frame somewhere. It's that cut and dry.. Go to the auto parts store and buy an automatic circuit breaker that matches the fuse type your bike uses. but instead of a 30 amp, get a 20 or 25 amp. As long as theres a short it will trip and reset by itself saving you the hassle of changing fuse every few minutes.. While the breaker cycles on and off you can search for the short. When you find it, the breaker will stop cycling and stop in the on or reset. Good Luck
Posted on Jun 11, 2009
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, have you checked the 30 Amps main fuse and its holder clips? It would be integrated with the starter relay. The fuse or the fuse holder may have heat related problem(s) causing it to loose conductivity when hot.The fuse may require replacement even if it tests good and/or the fuse holder would need cleaning / crimping. To locate the starter relay (main fuse), follow the battery cable from the + terminal of the battery.
Please postback results.
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
i know this sounds silly ,but when you bought the battery had it been activated,new batterys are critical in their first charge and you cannot use a standare type automotve charger,if bought dry the battery needs to have the acid filled ,left to sit for at least 2 hours prior to charging,once it has sat for the 2 hrs with the acid in,the new battery will need to be charged with a "cteck"or similar type charger for at least 13 hrs before it can be put into normal service,what happened with yours i think is that sure you gave it a charge but it has only recieved a "surface charge"and will be usable for a very short time,it may recover for a brief period and go again untill the surface charge dissipates,(or in other words ..runs out of charge)best thing you can do with the battery is take it to a auto electrician and have the battery cycled and conditioned,this is not expensive to do and will give you piece of mind,after conditioning the battery shouldngive excellent service,i have the battery in my goldwing coditioned about every 12 months and i have the same battery that was in the bike when i bought the bike 8 years ago and still no electrical or battery problems(costs about $25 to get it done)once a year but that beats $280 for a new one...hope this helps
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
Check continuity at the kill switch? sidestand switch? Either could be malfunctioning. What does your manual tell you about the starter relay circuit?
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
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