Question about 1997 kawasaki GPZ 1100

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1997 Kawasaki GPZ1100 will not turn over

Recently charged the battery on 1997 GPZ1100. After putting it back together and trying to start it I heard a pop like a fuse blowing and nothing worked. When the key is turn off the clock on the dash works but when its turned on the clock goes off and nothing works. I have checked the fuse box under the seat and the 30A fuse on the right side near the battery. I can't find anything else to check. Any ideas??? Regards Pete

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 45,570 Answers

Hi, Pete before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter have failed or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
HELP My 900zxi won turn over
What to do When Your Motorcycle Won Start
Download Motorcycle Manuals Free Zip File
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1995 Kawasaki GPZ1100 Owner Manual

Posted on Jul 16, 2017

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: turn on key no electrial,

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

There is a master fuse. It is 30 amps and is located at the side of the starter motor relay. To determine the location of this relay, follow the wire from the + terminal of the battery. The main fuse is responsible for supplying all the electrical power of the bike except for the starter itself.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

  • 8404 Answers

SOURCE: when i turn my key on nothing happens on the dash

Both cables firmly connected? Good ground? Cables connected properly (+ to start solenoid, - to the frame?) Is there power at the battery? You measured the battery with a Volt/Ohm meter? What about the solenoid? Have power on the battery side?

Couple things for you to check. Currently, the website is not notifying we volunteer question catchers of comments posted to questions ... so, if none of this works, please reformulate your quesiton with the latest information and repost.

Thanks

Thanks for your question

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

czaa
  • 4536 Answers

SOURCE: 88 Ninja starter problem, Cleaned gas tank,

sometimes fuses that good shud be tested-chec wiring thru bike for cutz n corrosion-a bad relay can giv these symtoms--secure a repair manual for detailed procedures or ask dealer tech

Posted on Jan 14, 2010

canwoodjc
  • 3301 Answers

SOURCE: My battery was dead from

the minimum for a battery should be 12.4 volts,, its probably not getting the amps that are needed, replace the battery

Posted on Aug 12, 2011

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I have a Kawasaki GPZ1100 97 reg. Charged the battery and put it back on the bike and heard a pop, like a fuse blowing when I turned it on.. I have checked ALL the known fuses including the 30A fuse on the...


Hi Pete, just a guess but the "pop" was probably a bad connection, possibly the ground wire at the engine. Often when not under a load, just the clock for instance, you'll get a volt reading but under a heaver load you loose the connection.
Look for a bad connection in the ground and battery connections, Frank

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Hi, Davidalan and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, the ignition coil wires are:
  • red - IGN + 12;
  • green - trigger wire for the left coil (cylinders 1 & 4) goes to the integrated circuit ignitor;
  • black - trigger wire for the right coil (cylinders 2 & 3) goes to the integrated circuit ignitor. There is also a connection to the tachometer.

Incidentally, to my understanding, most idling problems would be a air-fuel/carb issue. The pale burn marks of the sparkplugs indicate a lean mix where there is too much air, too little fuel. Possibilities are an air leak or air filter replaced with aftermarket open/free breathers such as K & Ns (without appropriate re-jetting/tuning).

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

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sounds like you have got dead cells in your battery , they wont hold a charge , the loud click was probably the cells in the battery arking and killing the cells off ,id fit a new battery and all should be well.
hope this helps
kind regards
bert31000

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YOU NEED TO TRICKLE CHARGE THAT BATTERY TILL FULLY CHARGED AT A RATE OF 1 TO 2 AMPERS IF THE BATTERY WONT HOLD THE CHARGE YOU WILL NEED A NEW BATTERY THE NEW BATTERY WILL NEED TRICKLE CHARGING AT THE SAME AMPER RATING FOR AT LEAST 16 HOURS THE REASON WHY YOUR LIGHT WHENT OUT IS NOT ENOUGH POWER TO SUPPORT EVERY THING FROM THE BATTERY

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