Question about Suzuki GSX-R 750 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Hard to start when hot

I changed the starter, rectifier, battery upgraded to12amps, stator, cylinder head temp switch, starter relay, negative and positive wires, starter clutch switch, spark plugs, and can shaft sensor. Problem still remains. Im so lost right now im thinking about selling the bike.

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  • 5 Answers

I think u goto compretion test.

Posted on Oct 12, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: stator wiring overhaeting

My 96 GSXR was doing this too. I found I had oil leaking into the stator case. This had "washed" the insulation off the windings (I think) causing it to short out. It shorts worst when it is hot. Now when I disconnect the generator while running it runs great. Reconnect, and a huge blue spark arcs across the plug. This causes a huge current flow at this plug (back and forth). I haven't gotten all my parts yet to try out my diag. Check under your stator cover, or just continuity test it in the bike (OHMs meter).

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Bike won't start

so where did you find the bad ground, and if I wire the negitive side directly to the frame can that be a permanant fix? Myne is doing the exact same thing

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: I don't understand my wiring diagram.How does the

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

If the starter relay in your version uses blue / white and red / white wires, then to my understanding, connection would be:

  • blue / white - goes to the start switch and is supplied with +12 on starting;
  • red / white - goes to the starter circuit cut-out relay. This cut-out relay controls whether the starting relay gets a ground based on neutral/gear and clutch lever conditions.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: bike wont start replace start solenoid.when

You didn't mention what year model your bike is so I'll just generalize my response. Since you said that you replaced the solenoid, I'll assume that your bike is a 1988 model or earlier.

Your bike has a starter relay if it still has the stock wiring on it. Harley has used a starter relay since 1965 on the first model of ElectraGlide. Usually, it's underneath the battery tray or the seat or around that area.

On the back of your solenoid, you have three wire connections. Two very large connectors and one small connector. Make sure your bike is out of gear (in neutral) and use an old screwdriver to short between the large connector that comes from the battery and the small wire connection. The starter should engage and try to start the engine. If the ignition switch is on, it will start the engine. The starter will turn using this method with or without the switch being in the "on" position. If the starter works using this method, the problem is in either the relay or the neutral switch. If the starter does not turn the engine over, the problem is in the solenoid.

Now, let's check a few things. The small connector on the back of the solenoid should have a green or pink (depending on year) wire on it. Using a voltmeter or a test light, make sure you have voltage at the connector when you press the starter button with the switch in the "ON' position. If not, follow the wire to it's source, the relay.

The starter relay can be one of several different designs used throughout the years. It could be a small plastic cube, a small metal can, or a round phonelic relay. The relay should have four connections on it. A "hot" wire, a wire from the handlebar switch, the wire going to the starter, and a ground. The ground may be through the case itself. On the older Shovelhead bikes (1984 and earlier) there was a small short black wire that ran from the starter relay to the transmission for the ground. This wire must be intact or the relay would not work due to lack of a ground.

When you turn the switch on, one of the wires to the starter relay should become "hot". When you press the start button, you should hear a slight click and another of the smaller wires should now be "hot" as well, the one going to the starter.

On some year (1972 and later) models, the neutral switch was wired in with the starter relay. This was to prevent the bike from starting while "in gear" by disabling the relay. You'll have to figure this one out for yourself since I don't know what year model your bike is.

Now, you said you had power to the solenoid when you pushed the starter switch. So, let's assume that the starter failed the first test to told you aboue. If so, the problem is still most likely in the solenoid. Inside the solenoid, there is a large plunger with a copper disc on it. When you depress the starter switch, the coil in the solenoid becomes magnetized and pulls the plunger towards the back of the solenoid. This does two things, it engages the starter drive with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum and makes a high current electrical connection. The copper disc makes contact between the two large connections on the back of the solenoid from the inside. This connects the battery to the starter motor through the solenoid. If the black phonelic plate on the back of the solenoid is cracked or the contacts inside of it are badly burned, it will not work.

Now, if the solenoid is working correctly and you are getting voltage to your starter, it could be the brushes or something inside the starter. This is indicated if the starter trys to turn the engine over but just can't. It won't have enough power if the starter field windings are bad.

I hope I've given you something here that will help you solve your problem. This is basically the electrical part of the starter system. There are mechanical parts as well. If you hear the starter turning but the engine doesn't turn over, you have a mechanical problem. You can either repost or you can contact me directly at wd4ity@bellsouth.net I'll help if I can. Good Luck!

Posted on Nov 05, 2009

pugwash814
  • 377 Answers

SOURCE: im not sure how to replace my starter relay on my

. The relay is attached to relay connector located to the right of
the battery underneath the seat.
Pull relay from relay block.
. Connect positive battery lead to the 86 terminal.
. Connect negative battery lead to the 85 terminal to
energize relay.
. Check for continuity between the 30 and 87 terminals.
A good relay shows continuity (continuity tester
lamp “on” or a zero ohm reading on the ohmmeter).

Posted on Nov 07, 2009

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Need a wiring diagram on suzuki raiderj 110. Please. Tnx.


Maybe you can use these codes taken from:

http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/forums/showthread.php?120554-Motorcycle-Electrical-Wiring-Diagram-Thread

This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHTThis is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT
This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT

Dec 27, 2015 | 2006 Suzuki Stratosphere

1 Answer

HEAD LIGHT NOT COMING ON AFTER ENGINE IS STARTER. ORGINALLY HAD A STATOR GO OUT. REPLACED STATOR, REGULATOR, BATTERY, AND STARTER RELAY.


Hi, Anonymous in order to diagnose the starter circuit you must start with a fully charged battery, 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test if necessary. The battery cables and terminals must be clean and tight. The "NEGATIVE" cable is famous for corroding and or breaking inside the harness, check the connectors at both ends. Check your starter relay with a test light for continuity, it could be faulty due to corrosion and sticking in a closed configuration, another claim to fame. Finally, there is the starter solenoid, low battery voltage or faulty battery connections will cause extremely high amperage at the plate and contact shoes and rob the hold in coils of much-needed voltage. In extreme cases, the solenoid plunger plate will literally weld itself to the contact shoes, keeping the circuit closed and thus permanent engagement. Another scenario is unacceptable voltage drop to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter button, and finally to the solenoid. Remove the green wire from the starter solenoid and hook up the positive lead of your volt meter to the green wire connector and ground the negative lead. Turn on the ignition switch and depress starter button, the voltage reading should be no more than .5 volt less than the battery voltage. If it is more than .5 volt you need to backtrack that part of the circuit with your volt meter until you find the voltage robbing offender. Next remove the 3 screws that secure the solenoid cover and remove the plunger, dress the plate and the contact shoes of arching residue and make sure the contact shoes are tight and secure. If you have done all of the above, replace the green starter button wire, hook up your voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage drop when you start the engine, anything below 9 volts could indicate a faulty battery and a proper load test should be performed. Good luck and have a nice day.

Aug 22, 2015 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Yamaha r6 wont start


Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, must be 12.5 volts or better, voltage from the battery to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid can not drop more than 1/2 volt of battery voltage.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/121022-bike-wont-start-makes-clicking-sound.html
Help r6 won start just clicks what wrong motorcycles
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/pdf/03-04R6_service_manual.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/2007/lit-11626-20-43_r6_1310.pdf

Jun 23, 2014 | 2003 Yamaha YZF-R6

2 Answers

99 Kawi zx 900c won't crank or start, I've been told that it's either the stator or rectifier, how can I test these parts to be sure


The stator and rectifier are parts of the charging circuit, don't control motor operation. An ohm test will check a stator, you need specs to know what it should be. A rectifier changes ac to dc (I think) and has it's own test, which I forget.
Cranking and starting are battery and ignition and fuel things.

Nov 26, 2013 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Alternator not charging battery


ok first check the negative terminal and ensure you have a proper ground. then you have to check the stator and regulator / rectifier, you can check the stator which rarely goes bad by using a multi-meter on AC it should give you a voltage reading when cranking the bike over be careful you could get shocked now with the bike off check the regulator / rectifier by using the diode setting you can check to see if your rectifier is working use the leads and check the wires that come from the stator and the other lead on the wire that goes to the starter you will get voltage one way and the other you shouldn't so you will have to switch the leads. so if you get voltage both ways the regulator is bad or if you don't get voltage at al it is bad.

Oct 28, 2013 | Yamaha YZF-R1 Motorcycles

2 Answers

MY YAMAHA SR 150 MODEL 2002 , THE BATTERY IS NOT CHARGING EVERY TIME I BUY NEW BATTERY IN FEW DAYS IT WILL DISCHARGE OR DRAIN THE BATTERY POWER


there is a regulator rectifier assembly that rectifies the ac coming from the stator and then regulates the voltage to both charge the battery and run accessories and lights....if you can obtain a voltmeter, try starting the bike and measure the voltage on the battery..it should be about 14V DC with the bike running...if not then switch the meter to AC and check the leads coming from the stator(they are the leads that come out from under the clutch cover)...the measured voltage from the stator should be around 30v AC and will go higher when you rev the engine....if this voltage is not present then the stator is defective...if it is then the rectifier/regulator is probably bad...also, make sure that all the fuses are good

Jun 11, 2011 | Yamaha SR 125 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Wiring


Lets start with the battery. There should be a relay of some kind with two large wires hooked to it, and maybe 5 other smaller wires. Now the one large wire should go to the relay direct from the battery, then the other large wire will go to the starter. When the connection is made between these two large wires the starter should turn. Now there will be one or two smaller wires that control the relay, ( these are hooked to a post or posts on that same start relay), so it will pull in and make the connection between the two large wires to turn the starter. You can check this with an old school 12v test light, hook a hot wire to one side of the start button from a hot wire here in the relay, (one that is hot when the clutch is pulled in or the bike is in neutral -- clear as mud?) or it can be hot all the time, but the starter will turn every time it's touched. Some old school bikes are wired like that anyway. Go and push the starter button and check wires until you find one that gets hot only when you push the start button. Then back to the relay, pull that hot wire from the start button to the relay and touch it to the small post and see if it will now energize the relay when the start button is pushed. Now once all this wiring is fixed it should turn over the engine, when the start button is pushed and it's in neutral or the clutch is pulled in or it will take off on it's on. Next the Alternator, one of the medium sized wires should come straight from the battery to the regulator nothing in between, thats is the regulator exciter wire, next is the, alternator wires, there should be 2 or maybe 4 wires coming out, and if there are 4 they are in pairs these are the A/C output of the alt. These wires will hook to the rectifier, You should have one wire going to ground from the rectifier, then, these 2 wires from the alt. then a wire that hooks to the regulator as 12v hot out of the rectifier. See this is how the Alternator works is produces A/C voltage (say 28, 30 volts A/c) then the rectifier converts it to 12 volts + - D/c the - negative is the ground wire. The regulator will Check the volts at the battery and adjust the output of the 12vdc from the rectifier and let it pass on to the battery to charge it. I hope some of this helps you, I hope it makes sense. I would love a bike like this. . . .

Jan 25, 2010 | 1978 Moto Guzzi 850 T 3

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